Moving Knock Sensor for accuracy
#1
Moving Knock Sensor for accuracy
I was kicking around the benefit (if any) of moving the knock sensor to the rear housing. Thinking about it, the rear housing as we know runs hotter so real knock would be occuring sooner there than the front. Also, the sensor would be further away from all the engine's pulleys, belts, chains, and things that make knocking noise normally.
Just wondering if anyone has moved it and recorded the knock data differences in the rear housing....
Just wondering if anyone has moved it and recorded the knock data differences in the rear housing....
#2
Will u do me a kindness?
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It's an interesting theory. I've debated about getting the Link Knock Block and hooking it up to a Link G4RX, but decided it probably wasn't with the effort, time and expense. Arghx, got some really interesting SAE papers regarding the OEM knock sensor and placement.
#3
Eye In The Sky
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Last winter my engine started showing high kock. It did it from 12 to 16 psi boost.
Running my water injection did not stop it. Even tried removing three degrees of timing along with WI, still high knock. The proof that I knew it was noise was a 16 psi run in 5th gear up to 7000 rpm with knock showing 120. No abnormal engine noise could be heard and nothing bad happened.
This summer I moved the sensor back to the rear rotor. This last cold spell in Houston did show noise in the high 50s. Have to wait until 10C for a real test.
Running my water injection did not stop it. Even tried removing three degrees of timing along with WI, still high knock. The proof that I knew it was noise was a 16 psi run in 5th gear up to 7000 rpm with knock showing 120. No abnormal engine noise could be heard and nothing bad happened.
This summer I moved the sensor back to the rear rotor. This last cold spell in Houston did show noise in the high 50s. Have to wait until 10C for a real test.
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