3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Motor mount replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 21, 2002 | 01:00 PM
  #1  
amp's Avatar
amp
Thread Starter
old yella
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (50)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 98
From: NYC | PA
Question Motor mount replacement

how involved is such a job ?
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2002 | 03:30 PM
  #2  
jfirko's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 15 Years
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Delaware
I have done a little investigating myself since my driver's side mount let go. It doesn't seem like this is too complicated of a job. From what I have been told you need to undo the two large bolts, jack the engine and trans up ~3 inches until it hits the tunnelthen remove the old mounts. Don't jack on the oil pan and dent it... Then install the new ones. I was told that it may be a little tricky getting the engine back down once the new mounts are on. One person suggested having a steel bar for prying available. Estimates were from 1 to 3 hours I guess depending how fast you work and how much of a pia it is to get the engine back down. The big downer is the cost of the mounts themselves :-( I will probably go with the rotorsports racing rebuilds. Good luck.
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2002 | 04:08 PM
  #3  
turbojeff's Avatar
Do it right, do it once
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (30)
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 4,830
Likes: 14
From: Eugene, OR, usa
It isn't that bad of job at all. If you have an engine hoist loosen the single nut that holds the mount to the engine cradle. Lift engine as far as you can using hoist and factory lifting hooks, remove old mounts, clean everything like crazy, brake cleaners work well. Clean off all the old sealant on the bolts.

Put sealant on the bolts and the surface of the motor mount that mates to the engine. Reinstall bolts. Don't glob too much sealant on the end of the bolt, the holes they fit in are blind, sealant isn't compressable, you can break the rear housing. This isn't very likely though.

Jeff
Reply
Old Jun 22, 2002 | 08:14 AM
  #4  
manatecu's Avatar
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati
You left out one important thing - Drain the oil before you start. Well actually two - Clean out the holes in the oil pan very well use a degreaser, reinstall new bolts with RTF sealant and wait for a few hours before filling oil back up.

Chris
Reply
Old Jun 22, 2002 | 09:44 AM
  #5  
OC94Rx7's Avatar
_________________________
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 1
From: Denmark
I was searching for something else and noticed a step bye step on this subject with some photo's. It talks about the oil pan and motor mounts Give it a try.

http://wwwscuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_pan_removal.html
Reply
Old Jun 22, 2002 | 12:42 PM
  #6  
amp's Avatar
amp
Thread Starter
old yella
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (50)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 98
From: NYC | PA
Smile thanks

appreciate all the responses..
im going with the mazdaspeed mounts...30-40% stiffer than stock...
i have been told that polyurethane mounts will squeek eventually and require regreasing...
solid metal...would love to have the direct power but i need it to be streetable..
Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:14 PM.