Motor Mount Question
10-19-05, 02:46 PM
#1
Potato Love
Thread Starter
Motor Mount Question
I'll be driving to my Dad's house this winter to change the motor mounts and put a new oil pan on with Gotham's Oil pan brace. I purchased replacement polyurethane mounts from a member of this forum. Not the entire mount, just the polyurethane. What will I need to switch the old crud out with the new polyurethane? I need to make this a one shot, one kill, one weekend job if possible. I'm not allowed to work on my car at the apartment I'm at now.
10-19-05, 03:53 PM
#2
The passenger's side mount should be fine. The driver's side mount, you'll have to clean/burn off all the rubber crap from the stock mount, and then drill a hole through it so you can mount the solid mount.
The only difficulty is drilling the hole as the mount is angled. You will be drilling through basically a small metal pyramid, at an angle, which can make it a little difficult to "get it right".
The only difficulty is drilling the hole as the mount is angled. You will be drilling through basically a small metal pyramid, at an angle, which can make it a little difficult to "get it right".
10-19-05, 04:00 PM
#3
Good info. For the oil pan re-seal make sure you clean everything extremely well. Any crud or old silicone on there will most likely cause the oil pan to leak again. I like to use an angle grinder with a wheel that looks like a scotch brite pad to clean it. Another tick is to use a punch and hammer and punch a bunch of tiny dents in the oil pan and motor underside where the two seal agaisnt each other. These little pits will help hold the silicone. Also, use the right silicone. The one I like is called the right stuff and comes in an aerosol can. Make sure you use the black.
10-20-05, 09:20 AM
#4
Potato Love
Thread Starter
The passengers mount should be fine as in I shouldn't have to replace that one or it should be no problem switching in the polyurethane? The oil leak is from the passengers side and that mount seems to be in bad shape. I thought the drivers side was supposed to be the first one to go. My FD has 54K miles. I was planning on pitting a bunch of holes on the block and pan. I've got a wire brush drill attachment that's great for removal of old seals. So I guess I just need a vice and a good drill bit. The guy that provided the replacement polyurethane provide some mounting hardware. SHould I leave the tranny jacked and the engine raised until the next day? Or is it safe to lower everything back into place while the sealant dries overnight?
10-20-05, 09:39 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Larz
The passengers mount should be fine as in I shouldn't have to replace that one or it should be no problem switching in the polyurethane?
10-20-05, 12:25 PM
#6
Larz, IIRC Mahjik is correct about the mount being a pain to drill, do you have access to a mill, or can you set up a time with a local shop to do the boring?
It makes a semi hard job into a 3 or 4 second plunge with a mill, plus it is accurate.
If this matters to you, you could reuse the stock rubber mount and use the drill through method if your rubber is not in terrible shape and it just separated from the aluminum body.
From reports, the rubber is much better for sound dampening and ride comfort.
But again this will most certainly require a mill as the stock bolt in the DR side mount is a very hard material almost requires a carbide to remove.
Mine has held up and I don’t notice any noticeable change from stock at all. I also rebounded the rubber to the mount with a compatible high strength epoxy so I made sure there would be no rattle.
I have been very satisfied with the results. and it was “free” or at least it didn’t cost me any money.
There is also a new castiron mount that has a bolt that runs through the body if that interests you, but she is expensive ~200 IIRC.
It makes a semi hard job into a 3 or 4 second plunge with a mill, plus it is accurate.
If this matters to you, you could reuse the stock rubber mount and use the drill through method if your rubber is not in terrible shape and it just separated from the aluminum body.
From reports, the rubber is much better for sound dampening and ride comfort.
But again this will most certainly require a mill as the stock bolt in the DR side mount is a very hard material almost requires a carbide to remove.
Mine has held up and I don’t notice any noticeable change from stock at all. I also rebounded the rubber to the mount with a compatible high strength epoxy so I made sure there would be no rattle.
I have been very satisfied with the results. and it was “free” or at least it didn’t cost me any money.
There is also a new castiron mount that has a bolt that runs through the body if that interests you, but she is expensive ~200 IIRC.
Last edited by rotarypower101; 10-20-05 at 12:27 PM.
10-21-05, 01:26 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by rotarypower101
There is also a new castiron mount that has a bolt that runs through the body if that interests you, but she is expensive ~200 IIRC.
btw, I would go polyurethane for a replacement on the driver's side, even with a semi-solid mount (the sandwich method)....the rubber will still wear out, the urethane softens up a little over time as well, but it is basically "permanent"
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10-21-05, 01:00 PM
#8
No this is a stock mazda part from what I was told. It is fairly prevalent that these pieces fail in stock form, so it is no wonder that they made these parts available, though it probably should have been a recall, being that it is such an important part.
I was told that it is the same rubber material and it has no more resistance to oil than the stock one did as a disadvantage.
Way to go boys!
I was told that it is the same rubber material and it has no more resistance to oil than the stock one did as a disadvantage.
Way to go boys!
10-21-05, 03:00 PM
#9
Potato Love
Thread Starter
I don't suppose there's a good how to or somebody with pictures that breaks this down Barney style. This is sounding like it's going to be a major pain. All I have is a hand held drill. I've done some amazing things with cobalt bits before, but I'm no miracle worker.
