poss

iTrader: (5)

just occasional vibrations. certain rpms below about 1500rpm shake things that are in my door pocket.

I watched a video of my dyno run for engine movement and there was virtually none!! it was solid as a rock. so they are doing their job in that respect.

poss

iTrader: (5)

you could use a metric bolt. I just had standard bolts handy so I used those. 3/8" is really close to the stock bolt size. all the holes are just about the right size.
so basically, a 10mm bolt would probably work just fine. I will probably switch mine out sometime just for consistency.

damian

iTrader: (2)

hmm, good idea wonderland, thanks

damian

iTrader: (2)

ok, i drove it to the club and back..it was very interesting, there was some added vibration, but not what I was expecting...it was a very low tone vibration,and only prominent in the lower rpm range(1-2) during slow acceleration....however, the funny thing is that the exhaust sound is now a bit heavier, sounds more like a real race car lol (heheh)...

i really like how it tightened it up, at idle I used to be ableto watch the motor move around in the engine bay, now, solid as a rock, and before I could move the engine back and forth with my weight, now when i pull on the engine the entire car shifts back and forth...got to love that

...so far I like it...and assuming soem of the vibration will tame itself over time, then it is a great mod.

one thing I was bummed out about was that I still have the slop in the drivetrain (on-off throttle or shift in forward/backward momentum), although reduced a bit from the new mounts. I at least I know that its not the motor mounts, i mean, now my engine play is almost nill, so maybe its the ppf (power plant frame) or the diff bushings...fortunetly I have some unobtainium bushings sitting in a box :-)


hey ISUposs, what kinda noise did you notice when you installed your diff bushings?

jspecracer7

I just installed solid diff mounts when I put my 4.777 final/cusco diff in the 7.

Don't know how to explain it, but the car feels "solid". However, I also installed a 5 pt roll bar and a rear subframe brace along with the solid diff mounts so that's where the rigid feel of the car maybe coming from.

damian

iTrader: (2)

here is an update on the mounts...

Vibration notes:
I don't even notice the minimal vibration that was there in the begining, if I pay attention to it I can still detect some, but it has smoothed out a bit.

Stability notes:
I am real happy with how stable they keep the engine, it used to move a lot even at idle, and not, dosnt move at all. I used to be able to pull the engine back and forth with my arms, now, it sways the entire car when i try.

Is the job really as easy as it sounds?
Basically yes, remove and disasemble the old mount, cut the urethane to proper size, drill ahole in its center, reassemble mounts, re0install (and add a 'waffer' on teh bottom if you want, as mentioned above in this thread)

A few sticky points:
The hardest part for me cutting the darn urethane, I ended up buying a small power table saw from homedepot, it did the job well, but was messy. Also, getting the motor/tranny up enough to get my socket/wrench between the mounts and subframe was a bit tricky. The rest was easy and basic stuff, just follow the details higher up this thread and ur good to go.

I have plenty of pics a few post above this one.

A BIG thanks to ISUposs (Ryan) for pioneering this mod!!!

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Any updates, anyone else try this?

wingsfan

I tried it and ran them until August when my motor came out for the last time. No more 13brew= no more problems with the mounts.

I went with the "sandwich" styled setup to try to minimize the vibration. It worked pretty well. It cleaned up the slop in my shifter that I was seeing from a broken mount (driver's side? I don't remember).

Anyhow, I autocrossed the car twice and put it through several spirited launches with no issues. it was kindo of ghetto, but it worked. Total cost was around $75 and like Damian said, the trickiest part was cutting the urethane.

damian

iTrader: (2)

I drove all summer with mine and I love em. Little if any vibration (especially if you do the under side waffer) and very solid tranny/motor...a no-brainer mod in my book.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered some thane from http://www.mcmaster.com/ to do the same.
You guys haven't developed oil leaks or anything since this mod have you?

wingsfan

It's No different from the stock mounts (because they essentially are the stock mounts). RTV the crap out of the bolts when you put them back in and you should be fine.

damian

iTrader: (2)

no oil leaks, as wingsfan said, i just used a heavy amount of sealant and have no leaks. Be sure not to 'stuff' the bolt holes with sealant or you may prevent the bolts from seating properly and damage somthing when torquing it down, use the sealant around the bolts.

J.S.J

I went hunting in the junk yard just looking at different mounts. I saw a few different ones which looked as if they would work well. I considered the application and design and settled on Jag XJ6. I found a new pair on Ebay for around 30 dollars. I removed the bonded driver side mount and drilled a hole etc. I found a 1/4 inch spacer to raise up the mount close to the factory height etc. I Have had them in for a year now and they work perfect. I considered the load they were designed to carry and felt they would be able to handle 300 hp made the Mazda way with no problem. I even fitted the stainless steel cage around the mounts as well. I could have perched new ones but theres no way any mount is worth the money being charged by the suppliers. I also plain to make some other parts as well.

rzograbian

i just have a question, how do you find parts on that website???/

does anyone have the link to the product's page??? im going to start reading this thread from the begining so sorry if its been mentioned before!

damian

iTrader: (2)

what website? you mean mcmaster car site?

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

any update on this? I just order the urathane and I'm getting ready to do them.

damian

iTrader: (2)

yeah, the update is I been runnin ghtem fora long time on my street car (even when i tracked it) and i love them, one of the best mods i did to teh car. I have a block of the stuff ready to make anothoer set for my track car :-)

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

thanx

4CN Air

iTrader: (7)

might be a newb question but why would this create an oil leak? also does everyone think to stay away from aluminum for street use?

damian

iTrader: (2)

the motor moutn bolts go through the opil pan, if not sealed well the oil can leak where the bolts go through the pan

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but in need of some help.

One of my mount arms, isnt flat like Damians. I can only guess i have an older model. It has that metal buldge on the end that holds the actual mount material (solid, wood, eurathane, hockey puck etc). I am about to install solid mounts onto the arms and that huge buldge gets in the way.

Do I just cut it off so that its flat? Its kinda hard to tell from all the posts ive read from searching whether or not that buldge is cut off or not.

Thanks

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

Hope its ok to reuse an old photo, but it helps to show what i mean.



the mount on the left of the image has the same buldge that i have. Should I cut that so that it is flat?

COsborne

Hack off all that old mount rubber and then you drill a hole in the bottom