MotoIQ.com's - Project FD RX-7 "Restomod"
#102
Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
I too, am interested in this from a weight perspective. I already run the Banzai brace in addition to the PPF, so if the PPF is redundant then with the addition of a diff brace, that's a pretty significant savings.
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Billj747 (04-17-23)
#104
Full Member
Thread Starter
Banzai Trans, PPF, Banzai Diff "BRACE" or
Banzai Trans, NO PPF, Sikky Diff "MOUNT"
THe Banzai diff mount is not that beefy and is only meant to add additional stability to the PPF while the Sikky mount acts like a traditional diff mount.
#106
Full Member
Thread Starter
I don't think you can stack the HPP in addition to the Sikky mount. We will be upgrading to the Ford 8.8 diff. There are far better LSD options out there for the Ford.
#107
Full Member
Thread Starter
The next installment is live!
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 9 – Air Pump Removal and FFE Idler Pulley
To make a simpler and more reliable off-road (track-only) engine setup, we removed the factory Air Pump and Air Control Valve, then installed the Full Function Engineering’s Idler Pulley Kit -which is a MUST, as well as FFE's block-off plates.
https://motoiq.com/project-fd-rx7-restomod-part-9-air-pump-removal-and-ffe-idler-pulley/
Enjoy and stay tuned!
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 9 – Air Pump Removal and FFE Idler Pulley
To make a simpler and more reliable off-road (track-only) engine setup, we removed the factory Air Pump and Air Control Valve, then installed the Full Function Engineering’s Idler Pulley Kit -which is a MUST, as well as FFE's block-off plates.
https://motoiq.com/project-fd-rx7-restomod-part-9-air-pump-removal-and-ffe-idler-pulley/
Enjoy and stay tuned!
Last edited by Billj747; 06-19-23 at 09:40 AM.
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Tim Benton (06-19-23)
#109
https://motoiq.com/project-fd-rx7-re...-idler-pulley/
the link text shows the link above but the linked url is for the clutch... could just be a glitch in the matrix but the link above is the one he meant to post
the link text shows the link above but the linked url is for the clutch... could just be a glitch in the matrix but the link above is the one he meant to post
Last edited by FDAUTO; 06-19-23 at 07:56 PM.
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rx7_nyc (08-10-23)
#112
Full Member
Thread Starter
For the FD diff housing, the OSG is probably the best current option.
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Billj747 (06-25-23)
#114
Full Member
Thread Starter
The next installment is live!
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 10 - Engine Fire Update
Owning an RX-7 is like riding a motorcycle. It’s not a matter of “IF” (the car catches fire) but rather “WHEN, and how bad?”. A small engine fire changed the path of our entire build, for the better?
https://motoiq.com/project-fd-rx7-re...e-fire-update/
Enjoy and stay tuned!
Project FD RX7 Restomod: Part 10 - Engine Fire Update
Owning an RX-7 is like riding a motorcycle. It’s not a matter of “IF” (the car catches fire) but rather “WHEN, and how bad?”. A small engine fire changed the path of our entire build, for the better?
https://motoiq.com/project-fd-rx7-re...e-fire-update/
Enjoy and stay tuned!
#116
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
That picture right there with the bobo parts store fuel hose and a plain hose clamp makes me hella mad.
If the previous person working on the car would have just kept the stock line and clamp this would all be fine.
Those worm drive clamps have ZERO BUSINESS on an FD fuel system. Hell, they have zero business on the cooling system either. Those clamps are garbage.
Dale
If the previous person working on the car would have just kept the stock line and clamp this would all be fine.
Those worm drive clamps have ZERO BUSINESS on an FD fuel system. Hell, they have zero business on the cooling system either. Those clamps are garbage.
Dale
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#117
Full Member
Thread Starter
That picture right there with the bobo parts store fuel hose and a plain hose clamp makes me hella mad.
If the previous person working on the car would have just kept the stock line and clamp this would all be fine.
Those worm drive clamps have ZERO BUSINESS on an FD fuel system. Hell, they have zero business on the cooling system either. Those clamps are garbage.
Dale
If the previous person working on the car would have just kept the stock line and clamp this would all be fine.
Those worm drive clamps have ZERO BUSINESS on an FD fuel system. Hell, they have zero business on the cooling system either. Those clamps are garbage.
Dale
1 - It's HEATER HOSE, not just 'parts store fuel hose'.
2 - It was done by a big-name shop in the community.
Takeaway: Be careful who works on your car, and always double-check things. Which isn't the solution for enthusiasts who are not experienced mechanics and put their trust in shops (the previous owner of this car). Unfortunately I inherited these issues, didn't get to upgrading the fuel system before it failed, and am paying the price for their shoddy work.
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c0rbin9 (08-09-23)
#119
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
It's worse than you think.
1 - It's HEATER HOSE, not just 'parts store fuel hose'.
2 - It was done by a big-name shop in the community.
Takeaway: Be careful who works on your car, and always double-check things. Which isn't the solution for enthusiasts who are not experienced mechanics and put their trust in shops (the previous owner of this car). Unfortunately I inherited these issues, didn't get to upgrading the fuel system before it failed, and am paying the price for their shoddy work.
1 - It's HEATER HOSE, not just 'parts store fuel hose'.
2 - It was done by a big-name shop in the community.
Takeaway: Be careful who works on your car, and always double-check things. Which isn't the solution for enthusiasts who are not experienced mechanics and put their trust in shops (the previous owner of this car). Unfortunately I inherited these issues, didn't get to upgrading the fuel system before it failed, and am paying the price for their shoddy work.
#120
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Sad to hear of the fire but looking forward to the comparison with newer cars on track when this is finished. It would have been really cool to see the different between the twins and single too, but it was not meant to be.
The Sikky braces and conversion to a traditional motor mount setup is interesting and seems like it would be an improvement. The stock drivetrain is pretty floppy.
The Sikky braces and conversion to a traditional motor mount setup is interesting and seems like it would be an improvement. The stock drivetrain is pretty floppy.
#121
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
That picture right there with the bobo parts store fuel hose and a plain hose clamp makes me hella mad.
If the previous person working on the car would have just kept the stock line and clamp this would all be fine.
Those worm drive clamps have ZERO BUSINESS on an FD fuel system. Hell, they have zero business on the cooling system either. Those clamps are garbage.
Dale
If the previous person working on the car would have just kept the stock line and clamp this would all be fine.
Those worm drive clamps have ZERO BUSINESS on an FD fuel system. Hell, they have zero business on the cooling system either. Those clamps are garbage.
Dale
Seems to be they'd be more reliable than the 30-year-old stock clamps as long as you don't overtighten them.
Sounds like the issue was using heater hose instead of fuel hose. Big no-no.
#122
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
2. They tend to cut into the hose, causing weak points for future damage/failure.
3. Unlike a spring type clamp, they are not a constant tension design - i.e., they don't expand & contract with the OD of the hose and pressure is applied unevenly around the circumference of the hose.
The OEMs all use spring clamps because they work & last a very long time when they are removed & installed with the proper tools. I've reused OEM spring clamps many times with no problems; if I find the spring clamp tension a bit weak after removal, I just replace it with a new one. New spring clips are not that expensive, and fuel plumbing is not something worth half-assing with a cheap worm gear clamp to save some time.
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#123
Rotary Enthusiast
Has anyone had chassis flex issues removing the PPF using just the braces? This would change the load path from the subframes. With the PPF, both front and rear subframes see the same forces. Without the PPF, those forces are separate and rely on the chassis of the car to carry the twisting load differences between them. Hope I'm explaining this clearly.
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gracer7-rx7 (11-14-23)
#124
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Has anyone had chassis flex issues removing the PPF using just the braces? This would change the load path from the subframes. With the PPF, both front and rear subframes see the same forces. Without the PPF, those forces are separate and rely on the chassis of the car to carry the twisting load differences between them. Hope I'm explaining this clearly.
I kind of doubt that that it would have that much of an effect on chassis flex.
Ultimately, its tied to the subframes, which are tied to the chassis...
Of course, my cars drivetrain mounts are all solid aluminum, so maybe that's why I haven't had many issues...
1. They tend to loosen up over time with vibration if NOT over-tightened to the point of distorting/binding.
2. They tend to cut into the hose, causing weak points for future damage/failure.
3. Unlike a spring type clamp, they are not a constant tension design - i.e., they don't expand & contract with the OD of the hose and pressure is applied unevenly around the circumference of the hose.
The OEMs all use spring clamps because they work & last a very long time when they are removed & installed with the proper tools. I've reused OEM spring clamps many times with no problems; if I find the spring clamp tension a bit weak after removal, I just replace it with a new one. New spring clips are not that expensive, and fuel plumbing is not something worth half-assing with a cheap worm gear clamp to save some time.
2. They tend to cut into the hose, causing weak points for future damage/failure.
3. Unlike a spring type clamp, they are not a constant tension design - i.e., they don't expand & contract with the OD of the hose and pressure is applied unevenly around the circumference of the hose.
The OEMs all use spring clamps because they work & last a very long time when they are removed & installed with the proper tools. I've reused OEM spring clamps many times with no problems; if I find the spring clamp tension a bit weak after removal, I just replace it with a new one. New spring clips are not that expensive, and fuel plumbing is not something worth half-assing with a cheap worm gear clamp to save some time.
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mr2peak (08-10-23)
#125
Rotary Enthusiast
Good thing the whole car didn't go up in flames. That "big name shop" should be publicly outed... Using anything less than an SAE 30r9 spec or better hose on a fuel injection system along with those dinky worm gear clamps is criminal negligence or at least gross incompetence IMHO.
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Billj747 (08-20-23)