I added Dynamat to the backside of the door skins and just behind the door panels years ago and I forget how big a difference it made until I ride in another FD. This weekend I was cleaning the car up and removed the hatch divider because one of the latches was busted (a 20 cent spring from the hardware store fixed that).

Anyways my sub has always made the divider rattle a little when turned up loud so I was going to add a little bit of foam weatherstrip around the edges to quiet it down. When I had the latch apart to replace the spring I got an even better idea. The divider is two pieces screwed together and there is actually quite a large, hollow cavity inside it. I took the divider apart and stuffed that thing with as much polyfill batting as I could get in there (I was out of Dynamat. It would work better) and then screwed it back together. The bass is noticably tighter and there is no more rattle or buzzing from the divider! I would expect it to quiet down roadnoise from the hatch area as well but in my car there is already a sub enclosure just behind the divider so I don't hear that anyway.

For about 15 mins of work and only a couple dollars of materials it's certainly worth a try if you're like me and hate stuff that rattles, squeaks or otherwise makes noise. Next time I get bored out of my mind I'm going to Dynamat the trunk floor and the rear fenders behind the plastic trim.

 

I had considered doing dynamat inside the door skins, but I never got around to it. That big of a difference, huh?

 

it is nice. it gets rid of that tin can sound when you shut the doors no more PING just a soild sounding thud.

 

Good trick! My hatch divider is also a little rattly, but I haven't had time to mess with it. I have a broken spring on it as well - I'll have to add that to the To Do list .

Thanks for the neat idea!

Dale

 

Ditto. If its as big a difference as people keep saying, I see no reason to follow up on the idea as well.

 

It's very simple to fix once you remove the latch; no brainer.

 

Yea, my latch on the driver side is all floppy now, I've had my computer in the back and had to stop suddenly... only too see the divider and case launch themselves into my back. Maybe I'll fix that this weekend, what size spring is needed?

Yes, I want to dynomat my whole interior... I bet it would get expensive though. Did you use their EXTREME stuff or just the regular dynomat? The batting is a nice cheap solution for the divider, I like that idea too.

Thanks,
~Kris

 

It's about the size of one from a ballpoint pen. Remove 4 screws and the latch comes out. It's very simple and very obvious how to fix it once apart.

I used the Extreme on the inside of the door skins above and below the reinforcement beam and the "normal" stuff for behind the door panel trim.

 

I used 2 layers of Extreme on the outer door skins and one on the door frame area and the speaker mounts that I made. The doors close very solidly now. I'm going to be doing something to keep the heat and noise out under the car soon. I'm thinking of just putting the car up on a lift, cleaning the underside very well, and applying Dynamat Extreme. How do you all think that will work? I know Mad7tist seemed to think it would be a good idea if I remember correctly.

 

You dont mean put Dynomat on the exterior floorpan do you? If you put it under the carpet inside the car it should work but it wouldnt last long on the exterior.

P.S. I still envy your car.

~Kris

 

Just curious, but how much does this stuff weigh? I've been considering it as a winter project.

 

It's not nearly as much as most people think. I believe the "bulk pack" that I purchased was only 20 lbs, and I used about 2/3s of the sheets in my doors.

http://www.sounddomain.com/item/DYN10455

 

Kris,

I originally had thought of doing it on the inside, but I have been told that it would work on the outside and would be much easier to apply.

P.S. Thanks

DamonB - What do you think of doing it on the exterior floorpan?

 

If your door closes with a PING, that means the seam sealer has separted from the "crash bar" inside the door. No need to add several pounds worth of sound deadening, get some seam sealer or similar type flexible stuff and put a few dabs between the outer skin and the crash bar, the PING noise will be gone.

Adding more sound deadener will help even more I'm sure but do the seam sealer trick first.

DON'T use expanding foam between the two, expanding foam can push the outer door skin out!

I bought some of that Dynamat Extreme stuff to do the floor of my CYM project but I found out it was Butyl, that same sticky crap that holds the vapor barrier to the inner door. I HATE THAT STUFF with a passion, once it gets on something, it gets on everything and it doesn't come off easily.

I'm sure it works well for sound deadening but I'm going to risk using a stock style replacement asphalt sheet stuff.

 

I'm going to fill my car full of cement.

 

Jeff, do you have a picture that would help describe what you're talking about? I'm very interested in this, so if you could give a little more detail it would be extremely helpful. Thanks!

Rob

 

So are you gonna sell the Extreme you bought? I might be interested...

 

Pics?

 

I think it's a bad idea.

 

When i powder coated my doors inside and out I noticed that the powder coating has reduced exterior sound levels and when I close the doors, they don't sound like cheap tin cans, but a solid "thunk."

 

Thanks for the tip DamonB. I've got just a little Dynamat left over from going around the rear speakers in my R1, which made ALOT of difference in sound quality and volumn. I'm gonna put some in that divider.
Regarding the rattling between btwn door skin and inner reinforcement... silicon adhesive caulk works excellent. It won't expand (or shrink) but adheres well and remains semi-flexible. This is also true for under the hood, between the hood sheet metal and reinforcement. In fact, I found it's good for fixing all sorts of interior-plastic rattles, like that of the divider. I keep a tube of clear in the garage all the time.

 

Too brittle. Use lead and asbestos instead.