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Metering oil pump removal

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Old 12-03-01, 03:28 PM
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Metering oil pump removal

Got my engine out of my 93 FD Jap spec for a rebuild. I am going single turbo with a Moted M4 and also want to run pre mix, I have unbolted the metering pump (3 bolts) and removed the oil lines to the housings. What do I need to do to finish this job? Just make a blanking plate to take the place of the pump? Or do I need to remove stuff from within the front cover once it's off?

What about the spray jets? How do i deal with these? And there look to be vac lines to the banjo bolts for the jets. Why? I take these may help atomisaion or something? Do I just make blanking bolts with seals under the heads for the jets, or should I remove the jets entirely?

Thanks.
Old 12-03-01, 03:58 PM
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There is a gear and driveshaft for the MOP under the front cover that you can remove, but you will have to replace the gear with a suitably sized spacer. Then you can manufacturer a gasket or use RTV silicone, and install an aluminum block-off plate over the MOP hole.

The oil injection nozzles are pretty much in the housing to stay. Each has a slot for a screwdriver or other tool to back them out, but if memory serves they are brass and will strip easily. It won't hurt anything to leave them in the housings. The banjo fittings and oil lines must be removed (clear plastic lines) and the holes filled with properly threaded plugs.

If you can find someone who has already taken these steps, ask them what they used for plugs. I only got as far as removing the gearing from the front cover before I gave up on rotary engines.

There are some who believe that the MOP will continue to inject oil at a fixed (reduced) rate if left in place, as with a MoTeC system, even though it is no longer computer controlled. At any rate, it cannot hurt to leave it in place and simply run pre-mix in your tank, should you decide not to go to the trouble of removing it. You would be able to sell it fairly easily should you go through with eliminating it, though.
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