mazmart remedy waterpumps
#1
mazmart remedy waterpumps
I know the pumps have recently "returned" and I want to see if anyone has received a new one in last few weeks?
I've ordered mine in late Jan and still nothing :/
been in contact with mazmart with no real updates. the usual few days and ill get back to you and my order somehow got "lost in the shuffle"
we are going in 2 months here by next week
I've ordered mine in late Jan and still nothing :/
been in contact with mazmart with no real updates. the usual few days and ill get back to you and my order somehow got "lost in the shuffle"
we are going in 2 months here by next week
#2
The following users liked this post:
AlexG13B (03-16-23)
#5
mine has been in for at least 6 yrs (unknown to me that it was a remedy pump since I bought car used)
my temps with ac in fl were usually between 188-193 with oe stat and sakebomb dual 19 row oil coolers
I was pretty happy with it
just wish my new one would.come already!!
my temps with ac in fl were usually between 188-193 with oe stat and sakebomb dual 19 row oil coolers
I was pretty happy with it
just wish my new one would.come already!!
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#8
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
just delivered according to Mazmart.
3 cheers for Mazmart for picking up the ball on this. Rick Engman designed the impeller and also fabbed them. he won LeMans a few times with them in his spare time. since his passing Paul/Mazmart picked up the ball on this important BREW item. Thank You Paul.
to quote Jim Mederer at Racing Beat:
"the rotary engine rejects greater amounts of heat via oil and water cooling systems than do piston engines of similar power.
the water cooling system is responsible for rejecting 2/3s of the engine heat
water cavitation is a serious problem with engines running at higher RPMs. Water pump cavitation occurs when water is no longer able to flow smoothly, but rather tiny water bubbles (air) develop around the impeller. when this cavitation occurs, water flow rates decrease and cooling is impaired."
Rick fixed the tiny bubbles around the impeller... you can too... call Paul
3 cheers for Mazmart for picking up the ball on this. Rick Engman designed the impeller and also fabbed them. he won LeMans a few times with them in his spare time. since his passing Paul/Mazmart picked up the ball on this important BREW item. Thank You Paul.
to quote Jim Mederer at Racing Beat:
"the rotary engine rejects greater amounts of heat via oil and water cooling systems than do piston engines of similar power.
the water cooling system is responsible for rejecting 2/3s of the engine heat
water cavitation is a serious problem with engines running at higher RPMs. Water pump cavitation occurs when water is no longer able to flow smoothly, but rather tiny water bubbles (air) develop around the impeller. when this cavitation occurs, water flow rates decrease and cooling is impaired."
Rick fixed the tiny bubbles around the impeller... you can too... call Paul
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 03-21-23 at 06:31 PM.
#9
yup received and already working on it. replaced with new tstat, waterpump pulley and radiator cap while in was in there. o and of course the low coolant sensor wire breaks so i ordered a new one from mazda, hopefully in tomorrow
thank you paul and howard Coleman!
#12
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
Like instrumented testing by some lab? You know the answer to that question.
Plenty of us posted about observed improvements 10 years ago when it was first introduced. I know I posted a lengthy observed behavior. Is it scientific, no. Did I observe an improvement, yes.
Plenty of us posted about observed improvements 10 years ago when it was first introduced. I know I posted a lengthy observed behavior. Is it scientific, no. Did I observe an improvement, yes.
The following 2 users liked this post by gracer7-rx7:
AlexG13B (03-22-23),
Howard Coleman (03-22-23)
#13
nothing scientific... more so looking for actual data. maybe someone logging temps pre and post pump install. from what we've seen, there aren't necessarily any problems with the stock pump. comparatively in design, yes this one is clearly superior but what what does that translate to in actual performance. just because its a better design doesn't necessarily mean it will perform better under typical driving conditions.
i will read your thread
i will read your thread
#14
Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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nothing scientific... more so looking for actual data. maybe someone logging temps pre and post pump install. from what we've seen, there aren't necessarily any problems with the stock pump. comparatively in design, yes this one is clearly superior but what what does that translate to in actual performance. just because its a better design doesn't necessarily mean it will perform better under typical driving conditions.
i will read your thread
i will read your thread
#15
Rotor or no motor
iTrader: (24)
My REmedy pump did not perform nowhere near as advertised and it just SUCKED. it might be an isolated event but when I reached out to mazmart i was ignored. They get a thumbs down from me for their product and their customer service.
#16
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
nothing scientific... more so looking for actual data. maybe someone logging temps pre and post pump install. from what we've seen, there aren't necessarily any problems with the stock pump. comparatively in design, yes this one is clearly superior but what what does that translate to in actual performance. just because its a better design doesn't necessarily mean it will perform better under typical driving conditions.
i will read your thread
i will read your thread
I'm curious about the RX8 thread though. With the ODBC they might have been able to get better data than most of us FD peeps were able to.
#17
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
I've had a REmedy water pump in the car since early 09 and never had any issues with it. I'm using underdriven crank pulley and water pump pulley but I've been wanting to switch back to a stock size water pump pulley.
I recently started having cooling issues after changing ECUs (Syvecs to Haltech). I have two coolant temp sensors behind the thermostat, one for the ECU and one for the dash gauge. I also have a sensor next to the oil pressure sensor, where the stock gauge normally reads from. My temps during normal driving used to be no higher than about 185, now they get above 200, and with sustained normal driving they keep climbing up to 220 and it would go over if I didn't manually turn on the fans, which immediately started dropping temps (this was on the freeway too). I changed the thermostat and coolant cap (both from Ray Crowe, and the coolant cap went from 1.1bar to stock 0.9bar) last winter and didn't notice any issues last summer. This winter while changing the ECU, I also changed the line from the heater core to the passenger side of the engine, using a hard line from the back firewall, cutting it and rewelding it at a different angle. But I ran water through it before I installed it to ensure it didn't have any blockages. During all that, I didn't drain the radiator, just whatever came out while changing that line. I was thinking it could be an air pocket, and I've bled the system five times with a Lisle funnel and I get no bubbles, and one of those times I had the front of the car elevated just in case. My only other theory is that due to running much leaner now (in the 12s most of the time on the Syvecs, but now I'm at 13.5 during idle and 14 during light cruising), maybe the combustion is that much hotter causing the heat at the exhaust ports and thermostat area, because the spark plug side of the engine is 20-30 degrees cooler. I don't remember the fans coming on that much with the Syvecs, but maybe they're not on enough now.
All that said, I bought another REmedy pump from Mazmart (I noticed in Costas' thread that it was mentioned REmedy and Mazmart are two different pumps, I always thought they were the same). I figure 15 years might be long enough to run a pump. And I bought a 160 degree thermostat from NAPA, and it's boxed as a NAPA part but has Motorad on it and it's one of their safety thermostats that locks in the open position during overheating.
Either way, I used to run much cooler all the time and I'm trying to get back to that. I haven't had any issues with this pump, but I never did any testing with it either.
I recently started having cooling issues after changing ECUs (Syvecs to Haltech). I have two coolant temp sensors behind the thermostat, one for the ECU and one for the dash gauge. I also have a sensor next to the oil pressure sensor, where the stock gauge normally reads from. My temps during normal driving used to be no higher than about 185, now they get above 200, and with sustained normal driving they keep climbing up to 220 and it would go over if I didn't manually turn on the fans, which immediately started dropping temps (this was on the freeway too). I changed the thermostat and coolant cap (both from Ray Crowe, and the coolant cap went from 1.1bar to stock 0.9bar) last winter and didn't notice any issues last summer. This winter while changing the ECU, I also changed the line from the heater core to the passenger side of the engine, using a hard line from the back firewall, cutting it and rewelding it at a different angle. But I ran water through it before I installed it to ensure it didn't have any blockages. During all that, I didn't drain the radiator, just whatever came out while changing that line. I was thinking it could be an air pocket, and I've bled the system five times with a Lisle funnel and I get no bubbles, and one of those times I had the front of the car elevated just in case. My only other theory is that due to running much leaner now (in the 12s most of the time on the Syvecs, but now I'm at 13.5 during idle and 14 during light cruising), maybe the combustion is that much hotter causing the heat at the exhaust ports and thermostat area, because the spark plug side of the engine is 20-30 degrees cooler. I don't remember the fans coming on that much with the Syvecs, but maybe they're not on enough now.
All that said, I bought another REmedy pump from Mazmart (I noticed in Costas' thread that it was mentioned REmedy and Mazmart are two different pumps, I always thought they were the same). I figure 15 years might be long enough to run a pump. And I bought a 160 degree thermostat from NAPA, and it's boxed as a NAPA part but has Motorad on it and it's one of their safety thermostats that locks in the open position during overheating.
Either way, I used to run much cooler all the time and I'm trying to get back to that. I haven't had any issues with this pump, but I never did any testing with it either.
Last edited by speedjunkie; 07-13-23 at 04:23 PM.
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