Max psi of stock IC
Stock Mounted AIT Readings are Misleading
Intake temperatures from the Air Intake Temperature (AIT) sensor in the stock position on the underside of the UIM are known to be highly misleading because they are substantially influenced by heat soak of the UIM.
Read more about it here:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=sensor
Read more about it here:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=sensor
Re: a few thoughts
Originally posted by greg schroeder
How about some intake and ambient temperature examples?
I'm not sure how accurate the Power FC intake temperature reading is, or were it collects the temperature data, but just cruising around here in Scottsdale, Arizona yesterday, and after a couple long red lights, without even pushing boost, I saw 75C(167F) for an intake temperature after about a half hour of casual driving. At that time during the day it was 40.5C(105F) ambient temperature . I'm running 96 octane fuel with stock IC, DP, CB, PFC and stock turbo configuration. I don't believe it would be wise to be regularly boosting at all given these conditions. 12, 13,....15lbs bye, bye engine.
How about some intake and ambient temperature examples?
I'm not sure how accurate the Power FC intake temperature reading is, or were it collects the temperature data, but just cruising around here in Scottsdale, Arizona yesterday, and after a couple long red lights, without even pushing boost, I saw 75C(167F) for an intake temperature after about a half hour of casual driving. At that time during the day it was 40.5C(105F) ambient temperature . I'm running 96 octane fuel with stock IC, DP, CB, PFC and stock turbo configuration. I don't believe it would be wise to be regularly boosting at all given these conditions. 12, 13,....15lbs bye, bye engine.
Your right, if your air temp sensor is reading temps that high you dont need to be running high boost. If temps are over about 50C I wouldnt want to run high boost unless your tuned for high boost in that temp range. Even if the sensor is just suffering from heat soak you still shouldnt. As a matter of fact heat soak of the sensor is far more dangerous than if the actual air temps are that hot. The reason is if the actuall air going into the engine is 50C but your temp sensor is heat soaked my the uim and its showing 70C your going to run lean. Your ecu is going to think its 70C air temp and pull fuel when in reality your air temps are 50C, hence it creates a lean condition.
STEPHEN
Last edited by SPOautos; Sep 3, 2003 at 05:02 PM.
I'm Not Sure About This!
Originally posted by SPOautos
As a matter of fact heat soak of the sensor is far more dangerous than if the actual air temps are that hot. The reason is if the actuall air going into the engine is 50C but your temp sensor is heat soaked my the uim and its showing 70C your going to run lean. Your ecu is going to think its 70C air temp and pull fuel when in reality your air temps are 50C, hence it creates a lean condition.
STEPHEN
As a matter of fact heat soak of the sensor is far more dangerous than if the actual air temps are that hot. The reason is if the actuall air going into the engine is 50C but your temp sensor is heat soaked my the uim and its showing 70C your going to run lean. Your ecu is going to think its 70C air temp and pull fuel when in reality your air temps are 50C, hence it creates a lean condition.
STEPHEN
I'm not entirely sure you are correct about this. I agree that the ECU reads air intake temperature and adjusts A/F. I also agree that the higher the air intake temperature, the lower the air density, and therefore less fuel is need.
What I question is that I believe the ECU is programmed to take an "ultra safe" approach when it reads high air intake temperatures. So, when the ECU reads high air intake temperatures it actually increases fuel above what it should be so that the extra fuel will help cool down the combustion zone temperature to protect against detonation.
Is there anypone out there who knows for sure and can set the record straight?
Re: I'm Not Sure About This!
Originally posted by Jonesboro
STEPHEN,
I'm not entirely sure you are correct about this. I agree that the ECU reads air intake temperature and adjusts A/F. I also agree that the higher the air intake temperature, the lower the air density, and therefore less fuel is need.
What I question is that I believe the ECU is programmed to take an "ultra safe" approach when it reads high air intake temperatures. So, when the ECU reads high air intake temperatures it actually increases fuel above what it should be so that the extra fuel will help cool down the combustion zone temperature to protect against detonation.
Is there anypone out there who knows for sure and can set the record straight?
STEPHEN,
I'm not entirely sure you are correct about this. I agree that the ECU reads air intake temperature and adjusts A/F. I also agree that the higher the air intake temperature, the lower the air density, and therefore less fuel is need.
What I question is that I believe the ECU is programmed to take an "ultra safe" approach when it reads high air intake temperatures. So, when the ECU reads high air intake temperatures it actually increases fuel above what it should be so that the extra fuel will help cool down the combustion zone temperature to protect against detonation.
Is there anypone out there who knows for sure and can set the record straight?
I don't know how the stock ecu handles it, but I would guess the PFC is closely modeled after the stock ecu for most things.
According to Racing Beat http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm , their stock intercooler clamps will hold boost up to 20 psi http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=18300
I've hit 15 psi and it still holds together.
As I've said, I've been running this way for years without any problems. I am not saying that this is the ideal setup and a larger intercooler would surely help. But for my occasional on-boost bursts it works just fine. Seems that I always have other issues with the FD which require the $$ which would otherwise go to the intercooler and new intake. Since I don't track the car, spending $1500+ for the intercooler and intake is not a high priority...
I've hit 15 psi and it still holds together.
As I've said, I've been running this way for years without any problems. I am not saying that this is the ideal setup and a larger intercooler would surely help. But for my occasional on-boost bursts it works just fine. Seems that I always have other issues with the FD which require the $$ which would otherwise go to the intercooler and new intake. Since I don't track the car, spending $1500+ for the intercooler and intake is not a high priority...
I have PFC, DP, MP, CP, and my boost hits about 12 psi on the stock intercooler. I know this now because I have just recently gotten a boost gauge. Is this normal for it to be boosting to around 12 psi? The map is set for my mods, which are intake, fuelpump, and the ones above.
Originally posted by rotary-tt
According to Racing Beat http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm , their stock intercooler clamps will hold boost up to 20 psi http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=18300
I've hit 15 psi and it still holds together.
As I've said, I've been running this way for years without any problems. I am not saying that this is the ideal setup and a larger intercooler would surely help. But for my occasional on-boost bursts it works just fine. Seems that I always have other issues with the FD which require the $$ which would otherwise go to the intercooler and new intake. Since I don't track the car, spending $1500+ for the intercooler and intake is not a high priority...
According to Racing Beat http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda3.htm , their stock intercooler clamps will hold boost up to 20 psi http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=18300
I've hit 15 psi and it still holds together.
As I've said, I've been running this way for years without any problems. I am not saying that this is the ideal setup and a larger intercooler would surely help. But for my occasional on-boost bursts it works just fine. Seems that I always have other issues with the FD which require the $$ which would otherwise go to the intercooler and new intake. Since I don't track the car, spending $1500+ for the intercooler and intake is not a high priority...
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