Elaborate?

Whatever's causing it, it seems obvious that you have a boost leak. What's more, if you're really not getting a transition, then you have a control problem. The two are often linked to the same root cause, especially when they both start at the same time, right after you did something. Separate components rarely fail coincidentally at the same time.

Considering that it was working fine before you did the hose job, and the components that you are monkeying around with to do a hose job, it's most likely that you f'd something up related to the hoses themselves - a hose not connected somewhere, a cut in a hose, cracked the vacuum chamber, reversed a check valve, or accidentally swapped a couple hose connections. Or a combination of these.

Actuators don't generally go bad just sitting there with no vacuum/pressure applied. Also keep in mind that the CCV is open when the actuator sees no vacuum - it closes when vacuum is applied. That's why the "CCV + CRV stays open" explanation makes a lot of sense. A vacuum loss common to the CCV actuator and CRV would cause both valves to remain open - which would explain both a boost leak and the absence of a transition. I'm guessing the TCV is also effected, as it shares a vacuum source with CCV and CRV.

There could also be other symptoms that you haven't noticed, as a single vacuum source leak can effect several subsystems.

Is that elaborate enough?

 

Oh geeze. The boost was working fine prior to him messing around with it? I could have just responded with "recheck all your hoses".

 

one more thing you can check is the vac line on the CRV. after you run the car for a few min(so your vac chamber is charged up), turn it off. Let it sit for like 2 min (so you can see if your vac chamber is leaking), and then pull the vac line off the CRV. when you do, you should hear the air getting suck in.
if you don't hear that sound. you can narrow down your search to the vac control. I.e. one-way check valve, vac chamber, or the wrong line is connected.
if you do hear the sound of air suck-in. then you can search your other part of the system.
this might save you some time.

 

DigDug thanks, I am just trying to understand this the best I can. I did the hose job very very carefully and I also had some help from a guy that had done two prior hose jobs without incident, I am going to doublecheck everything. I took like two weeks to do it I took my time and even put springs in the tight bends so no kinking would occur, it is very possible there is a leak from the y-pipe coupler or the solenoids I replaced were all used and untested. I am just looking for reasons why and where to look to solve this specific problem. thanks.

 

Incidents such as these make me not want to do the hose job with silicon hoses. The kit that Mazda sells with pre-bent/pre-cut hoses are a direct fit, thus you KNOW when you messed up if you end up with more hoses or incorrect hoses. Anyways, good luck with your turbo problem; keep us updated.

 

Sears does not have the Mighty- VAC in stock they do have this one http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00921021000
do you guys think it will do the same?

 

I also confirmed that the double throttle solenoid was one of the two solenoids I replaced during the hose job, G and H both were replaced with used ones and not checked. I am pretty positive I connected all hoses correct, I also had my frienfd helping go over them too. I am suspecting a bad check valve and or solenoid. I will find out as soon as I find a test vacuum pump. wish me luck.

 

Or a check valve is backwards (they are directional), or a hose got snagged on something and cut, etc...

 

I agree with DigDug completely. Anytime I work on the car and after putting it back together something doesn't work right you can count on the fact I screwed it up somehow when I was in there, even if at first hand the new problem doesn't seem related to what I was working on. Very, very rarely are things coincidence.

By the time you waste days troubleshooting things that aren't broken and looking for some wacky little discrepency while researching all the advice that half a dozen people are going to give you, you could remove the UIM and trace every single hose against the vac diagram and quickly check all the solenoids and actuators for proper function as well. You'd be done sooner.

 

DamonB, this is exactly what I am doing I have a vac pump and I am testing everything, wish I would have the first time, what is the proper function and how to test the check valves? I am finding that alot of them are acting weird now that I am applying vac to them.

 

*UPDATE* ok here is what I have found so far, the crv is not holding vacuum on the c-side and is not holding 15 lbs psi on the b side when I applied psi to A nipple, does not open and holds no pressure. I also found my Y-pipe coupler in bad shape and a couple check valves acting up. Interesting so far. I did get a replacement coupler but am going to need a new crv it looks like.

 

A check valve only allows air to pass one way, but not the other. Use the pump to pump the checked side to ensure that it builds vacuum. Then check the same side with pressure to see how much pressure is required for it to pass air. The cracking pressure (pressure at which the valve opens up to allow air to pass) is not high ~1psi. I don't know the exact specs. for the OE check valves, but I know it's very low. Personally, I use viton check valves w/ 0psi cracking pressure.

 

also the pressure chamber is good. it holds pressure. I checked all the solenoids in question per FSM and they checked out, I did find out my abv and crv are not responding per FSM after testing, I am getting air flowing from B to C then my CRV wont hold any vac from A when applied. very weird. looks like the ABV and or CRV need to be replaced? could this have been my problem all along?

 

I checked all check valves and they check out, one wasn't holding vac. so I got a good one in there. The turbo precontrol/wastegate solenoid, charge relief and double throttle all check out. pressure chamber good. I am wondering if the CRV and ABV are the ones causing me problems?

 

In my opinion, before jumping to various conclusions that could waste even more of your time, I would be absolutely sure that your hose routing is correct.

 

I am double checking the hose routing as we speak, I am also testing solenoids. What about the CRV and ABV? Is that why I would only be getting 5 lbs max and no transition? Damn this ****!! I will figure it out. I am determined to have my car back working better than it did before. I have already fixed numerous other problems, this one can be fixed too.
I am lucky too, this has been my first true mechanical experience (the car).

 

This post is why I did the Po' man's Non-sequential conversion. I didn't have the time or patience to chase down the sequential demons. Good luck!

Hey when you figure it all out can you come over and convert mine back???j/k

 

I tested the ABV and CRV again, this time I put pressure to B (per FSM) and then put vacuum to A and at about 4 in of vacuum the CRV opened up between B and C, they stay closed until I add vacuum to A. DOes this sound like they are operating correctly? I am in the process of taking a hose diagram and trace every hose one by one, as I go I am blacking out the ones that are correct and have been double checked and I will see if there are any problems, so far, so good on checking the hoses. I am also putting more springs in the hoses at the tight bends so there are no kink issues. I have a feeling I was losing boost at the y-pipe coupler, I got a new one as soon as I am done tracing I will put it all back and see what is up. after I get it all back together, can I tee in somewhere with my vacuum gauge and test the system?

 

If that's the value specified in the FSM, then yes. Only with solenoids would I suggest a testing method other than what's in the FSM (see Dave Disney's site for the backpressured solenoid test)

Seeing as that is a very common failure point, it's a good troubleshooting step. Did you find any cracks in the coupler when you stretched it and turned it inside-out? However, boost leaked here tends to affect both primary and secondary equally. It's possible it's a leak that is only forced open at 5psi, and there is another issue bleeding all the boost during primary operation.
Many possible places. Start with the pressure and vacuum chambers. Using the colored diagram, find a convenient place to tee in that is a line coming off the chamber. Then run the line under the hood near the windshield, into the window of the car. Use the pump to load it with 20inHg vacuum and let it sit for 5min. It should not lose vacuum. Then take it for a ride. Vacuum should go to full value (-20inHg usually) the first time the boost gauge shows this value, and it should not go down until you get hard into boost and the solenoids start using it. It should recharge fully once you let off the throttle.

Likewise, the pressure tank can be tested the same way - tee in (it's right on top) and on the drive you should see 0psi until you first hit boost. It should hold a value equal to the max boost from that point on. (10psi, normally).

If both of those look normal, but you still aren't getting a 10-8-10, then start teeing into lines between a solenoid and actuator. But that comes after you have a boost pattern and confirmed the pressure and vacuum systems can load/store pressure properly.

Dave

 

Dave thanx, what is the site for testing the solenoids for backpressure. I did find a bunch of cracks in the coupler, so I ordered a new one, I am looking into an efini y-pipe as we speak. I am tracing routes for the hoses and checking that and testing all check valves and solenoids and chambers for operation. By the way where is the most affordable place to get the polished efini y-pipe? any sugestions?

 

alright I went and got a MightyVac silverline kit. The craftsman does only vac. I plan on testing the solenoids again (Dave Disney's method) and see what happens.

 

does anyone know exactly how to test the turbo control solenoid (one by the ACV has two nipples). Is it supposed to hold vacuum between nipples and when activated release the pressure? or other way around?

 

It should behave like the ones on the rack. The output nipple is the one pointing forward adjacent to the body of the solenoid. When the coil is energized (on), it gets air from the other forward-pointing nipple. When off, it gets air from atmosphere via the nipple under the plastic cap. The plastic cap is just a dust cover or baffle or something.

Dave

 

I know that this might sound stupid but what is the trick to getting to getting the mightVac to give you pressure, I got it hooked to the pressure outlet, but no pressure, I am trying to test solenoids (per dave disneys site). this is getting funner by the minute.

 

On the side there is a switch. Just turn it 90° and it should pump opposite. The lesser models require you to move a cap from one outlet to the other.

Dave