Manifold to Turbo stud broke
Manifold to Turbo stud broke
So I didnt notice this when I tore down the motor but when I started reassembling I found a broken piece of the stud in one of the holes. Funny thing is they all felt like they came off cleanly and was threading off. Found 1 of my studs with flattened out threads too.
I just wanted to know what would be the option for this? I know I cant just drill it out and put in a bigger stud since I have to use OEM. What did you guys do?
Thanks.
I just wanted to know what would be the option for this? I know I cant just drill it out and put in a bigger stud since I have to use OEM. What did you guys do?
Thanks.
Take it to a machine shop and see if they can salvage it. If you try to drill/tap/ez-out it you'll likely just make things worse.
If they can't do it for a reasonable price, or can't do it, buy another manifold. Good used manifolds are cheap.
The trick that works many times in this situation is to weld a nut to that broken bit of stud then turn it out. Welding also shocks the metal and gets it moving again. Probably something a machine shop could do unless you have access to a welder.
Dale
If they can't do it for a reasonable price, or can't do it, buy another manifold. Good used manifolds are cheap.
The trick that works many times in this situation is to weld a nut to that broken bit of stud then turn it out. Welding also shocks the metal and gets it moving again. Probably something a machine shop could do unless you have access to a welder.
Dale
I've been pretty successful drilling these out with a hand held drill, I've lost count after going 15 for 15 and I not a mechanic by trade, just a homeowner. maybe I should of been a dentist. My first ones 30 years ago I had to re tap but since then, I expect success.
I would encourage you to try. I bit sharpener (iirc Drill Doctor) has been worth the investment. I start with a masonry nail to center the bit start with small bits go larger and keep center. Keep your eye on the thread ridges then use some picks and needle nose pliers to work the threads out.
had a technique once where after I drilled through and the bolt I would reverse the drill and the bit would catch the rest of the bolt out of the hole. have'nt been able to replicate that over the past couple. probably because I'm out of practice as I'm better at extracting bolts without breaking the heads off in the first place. But earlier this year I did drill a steel bolt out of cast aluminum and didn't have to retap. so I encourage you to try.
I would encourage you to try. I bit sharpener (iirc Drill Doctor) has been worth the investment. I start with a masonry nail to center the bit start with small bits go larger and keep center. Keep your eye on the thread ridges then use some picks and needle nose pliers to work the threads out.
had a technique once where after I drilled through and the bolt I would reverse the drill and the bit would catch the rest of the bolt out of the hole. have'nt been able to replicate that over the past couple. probably because I'm out of practice as I'm better at extracting bolts without breaking the heads off in the first place. But earlier this year I did drill a steel bolt out of cast aluminum and didn't have to retap. so I encourage you to try.
one more bit of advice. I have never been successful using one of those extractor devices. tried a vermont steel one on the bolt I did earlier this year, thought it a good idea as I was dealing with aluminum. the hardened steel extractor broke, I was fortunate to be able to drill from the other side to knock the broken extractor out.
so I do not recommend those extractors, just drills and forgot to mention that a 1/8" chainsaw file comes in handy.
so I do not recommend those extractors, just drills and forgot to mention that a 1/8" chainsaw file comes in handy.
+ 1 on taking it to a machine shop. I clamp mine in the mill and match my tool to the I.d. of the threads then the excess can be pilled out with a pick. A tap cleans it right up. I've done this numerous times. I do not suggest a hand drill, you never get it straight enought to have a decent job after. Any decent machine shop will be able to tackle this easily. Good luck
So machine shop is best bet? Or should I buy a manifold on forums? I figure I can get one for around 40 bucks. I don't know how much a machine shop would charge. My local one is pricey so I'm going to find elsewhere.
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How does the rest of the mani look? If it's somewhat clean and warp-free, I'd take it to a machine shop rather than gambling on getting another used one with a clean flange.
This happened to me when installing the supercharger on my old 2001 Miata. I SOAKED it with WD-40, then EZ Outed it with no problems..lol I guess I got lucky.
This happened to me when installing the supercharger on my old 2001 Miata. I SOAKED it with WD-40, then EZ Outed it with no problems..lol I guess I got lucky.







