RedTT3G

Hey everyone newbie here! I have a 3rd Gen twin turbo. I recently had a brand new engine imported from Japan. But, soon after my one turbo stoped working. Then I had some help and tried rebuilding the engine myself. Now that I have the car put back together it wont start at all.

So now Im wondering if I should just go N/A. What would be required for me to do that. And does anything know how much it might cost me. Any help is greatly apprecated.

Thanks
Angela

tsmysak1

First Post eh?

Going non-turbo won't necessarily help your problem.

If you want a helpful response, take the time to give details.

Is it fueling, is there spark, what are the mods, what did you do to the engine,...etc.etc. yadda yadda yadda...

No details = No response

Cheers mate..

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Sounds like you didnt build the motor correctly. Going non-turbo isn't the answer. You live where, in cali? Time to either take the car to a reputable shop and pony up the cash, or consider selling the car as is.

dubulup

haha, good post!

I'll answer your question though...I've got a couple minutes to burn.

to go N/A.

remove twin turbo charger
block off all oil/coolant passages
remove intercooler piping and intercooler
remove motor, and tear down
port the engine to flow more air (since boost will not be present)
rebuild the engine using S5 rotors (9.7:1 compression)
fabricate header
fabricate intake or use the stock one, which won't flow properly for N/A
**If using stock UIM/LIM**
cap off all vacuum nipples
re-plumb/wire the Double throttle control to operate by vac/rpm (as this will help down low torque and high end power)
install stand alone ECU
install dual EGT's
install WB oxygen sensor
tune for around 13.0:1 AFR while keeping EGTs in check w/ timing

OF course this is just a rough idea...once all that is complete, you'll probably have a lot more money invested and undoubtfully a lot more questions

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

we really need a /bit/ more information to be able to help you get it running
going n/a is not necessary but saying the engine is built incorrectly without even seeing it or even seeing compression numbers - is probably wrong too.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

She said she built it herself. That doesnt sound too good. I still say, take it to a reputable rotary shop and let them sort out the mess you've made, but don't expect it to be cheap

Rated R1

Freakin' sweet write up!! PM Mahjik and ask him to move this to the archives.

RedR1

iTrader: (5)

- two turbo's, + 1 rotor. Could always go that route

dubulup

I do what I can to help out

BuffDaddy915

Geesh, I had the intercooler coupler come loose and had 0psi yesterday. I'd be afraid to race a civic like that, just felt really slow compared to the TT setup.

eo2am

iTrader: (9)

It sounds like it would be cheaper to just get a na 3 rotor.

F0RSAKEN

It would be cheaper even than that, if you just used the engine out of an FC.

dubulup

highly doubt that.

dubulup

probably true...but then you need tranny and custom drive shaft...still probably cheaper, IF you find a great condition S5 motor...but still, why would you want either option.

XSTransAm

the turbo unless completely clogged with something should have no ill effect on the motor starting.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

i honestly though about going N/A. i decided the only way it would be worth while would be with a peripheral port 13b with a 2 peice e-shaft and independent throttle bodies. it would "decimate all", but the e-shaft/center bearing alone is as much as a set of new twins.

here's what i think you should do:

a. check the compression on your new engine. if it's good, get it running and have your twins rebuilt
b. build/have built a nasty p-port and be the envy of everyone

jic

iTrader: (1)

3 rotor?

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

You rebuilt a "brand new" engine? Did you mean to say that you tried to rebuild the turbo?

The first step is to check compression, or at the very least take off the exhaust manifold and listen for puffs of air as you rotate the crank by hand or via the starter.
if compression looks good then check for spark.
if spark is there, check for fuel.
You may also want to ensure that you don't have a clogged cat, a dead battery, or any loose grounds. Also check the turbo to make sure that it spins freely.

micah

In my area, occasionally, I see FD's in the 4-8k range with blown engines, trannies.. etc.. I have extra FC crap laying around, I was completely thinking of swapping in a FC engine/tranny and making an FD N/A. The benefits would be a better looking (IMO) car than an FC, cheaper fill-ups, and reliability. Albeit you wouldn't have anywhere near the power of a TT FD, it would still be an extremely fun drive. And anybody with a welder and some metal tools <raises hand> could fab up custom engine/tranny mounts. Even a custom driveshaft would be easy to fab up. All you would really have to do is get a standalone ECU, and get the driveshaft balanced. Should be enough...

So, potentially, if I picked up a blown FD for 6k or so, I could throw a rebuilt FC engine (2k-ish) a FC tranny (100-400) and a standalone (????) for a LOT cheaper than you could buy a working FD... or atleast a little cheaper.

Anyways, I want to see somebody do this.

SiKoPaThX

iTrader: (2)

^ You do the fabbing, we'll do the laughing.

spandy

iTrader: (1)

Dude, this post is 5 months old. I'm sure she figured it out or paid someone to do it by now.

micah

You can complain about me not searching, or you can complain about me replying to a 5-mo old post... You can't do both.

I just figured it would be best to reply to an existing post... keep the data in one place... Forums are hard enough to get information out of as it is. Which is why I love the idea of http://wiki.wankel.net