pro3grx7

Hi guys, Im looking to buy a 3rd gen rx7 and i was just wondering in what i am getting myself into. Currently i own a 98 eclipse Gs-t with a few mods and i was wondering if anyone knows from experience if there is more maintenace work than a DSM. I was also hoping u guys can let me know at what milage they recommend on engine/turbo rebuilding and if there are any surprises i might not know about that rx-7s come with.

For example when i bought my gs-t i didnt know about crankwalk. (7 bolt motor)

If u guys can help me or point me in the right direction i would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Dani

RE-Amemiya

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

ddkkww888

I purchased the car last February of 2005. I must admit ... it's a beauty but high maintenace and upkeep cost:

Purchase Price $ 13,546
2005 $ 5,240
2006 YTD $ 5,884

Good Luck

jic

iTrader: (1)

ouch..i cant imagine how much the average costwould be for most of the rotary guys

spandy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but when you see numbers like that, it is typically a track car with some hefty mods, or just someone rodding the **** out of it every where they go and not taking care of their basic maintenance.

ddkkww888

I do not know to repair on my own, so I m making
the mechanic rich..LOL. Of course included are upgrades
to timely replacement of parts.

Engine:
M2 Cold Air Intake w/2 K&N Filters, M2 Stock mounted intercooler with Greddy Elbow, M2 3” Downpipe, M2 Stage 3 ECU, Pillar mounted water temp and boost gauges by Autometer, AST bypass; silicone bottom radiator house, M2 upgraded radiator, zip-tied vacuum hoses.
R1 Front tower strut brace (9/2005)
Gotham Racing Urethane Motor Mounts (7/2006)
Fuel Filter (7/2006)
Ngk Spark Plugs (7/2006)
Nology Spark Plug Wires (7/2006)
Greddy Turbo Time & Harness (7/2006)
Engine Damper (7/2006)
K & N filters (8/2006)
Suspension & Exhaust:
ADR Kasai wheels, front 18x8; rear 18x9 w/Hub Centric Rings
Toyo T1’Proxes tires
TEIN Type FLEX Damper Coilover (2/2005)
HKS Super draeger cat-back exhaust with Bonez hi-flo
Catalytic converter.
Front Sway bar end links (7/2006)
Front & Rear Racing Beat Sway Bar (7/2006)
with special white bracket (7/2006)
18 piece Delrin Blushing (front, rear & diff.) (7/2006)
6 Pillow blushing for the rear (7/2006)
4 Wheel Alignment & Speed Balance all tires (7/2006)
Bonez hi flo cat 3” SS (8/2006)
Trans:
Gotham Racing Short Shifter (7/2006)
Fidanza Flywheel w/Mazda OEM counters weight (7/2006)
Exedy –OEM Clutch Kit replacement (7/2006)

Brakes: Power Stop Rotors and new brake pads (2/2005)
New rebuilt Calipers (2/2005)

Ice: Customized (2/2005):
JVC SHX850 Head unit 35 Watts RMS,
Infinity Kappa speakers, front (2way) 5¼”, rear (3way) 6½”
MTX TA5601 Mono Amp Class D 300 Watts RMS
MTX T7512-04 12” Subwoofer 400 Watts Peak

Clifford 450 G Alarm System (2/2005)

Tint and New Battery (2/2005)
New Battery (8/2006)

JConn2299

Actually, the routine maintenance costs are quite low. Without a doubt, my 3rd Gen RX-7 has been the cheapest car to maintain I have ever owned. (Owned from new, purchased in 1995.)

The problem, and it's a big one, is the longevity of the components. These are old cars now. Many are on their 3rd, 4th, or 5th owner, and they've lived hard lives.
60,000 mile + engines are susceptible to blowing coolant seals, turbos past 100,000 miles (or sooner) may need replacing, suspension bushings get old and wear out, and a clogged fuel filter or over-modified engine could detonate at any time.

Other than that (Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?) ..... the routine maintenance isn't really that much more than you would do for most other high performance cars.
3k mi. oil changes, 2 year coolant changes, spark plugs every 15k - 20k mi. etc.

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

As a DSMer of 6 years and current DSM and FD owner, I would say that:

The FDs in stock trim are as much or more maintenence as a moderately modified DSM. I have spent around $3k on reliability and maintenence on my FD this year not including labor. My FD makes stock power with stock sequential twins but I have had to replace failed components more frequently on my 70k mile FD as on my 180k mile DSM that makes 2x factory power.

With the FD you never know when you might accidentally pop your motor if you're upping the power. With the DSM you have to really really screw the pooch in a major way to blow your motor.

If you're good at wrenching on your DSM, you'll be in good shape working on the FD. You'll just need to learn what you're doing and this is a great place to find all the information you need.

Upgrade/OEM replacement parts are typically more expensive for the FD. For example you can't just add a MBC, fuel pump, intake and exhaust and crank the boost up to 19psi like you can on a DSM. You'll blow your motor instantly. The FD ECU can't deal with added boost so you're looking at a $700 computer upgrade just to support BPU (intake/exhaust/a few extra psi). Also replacement parts seem to be more expensive ($350 for rear suspension bushings/pillowballs that are guaranteed to fail, $75 for stupid dash vents which will crack, $70 for a OEM bumpstop/dust boost for suspension, etc. These are club discount prices.)

So yea, owning an FD isn't like owning a DSM, everything costs a lot more. But they're very very rewarding to drive when they're running properly Not trying to discourage you at all. I love both cars!

pro3grx7

Thanks for all the repllies.
What i was thinking about doing was finding a rx-7 without and engine/ tranny. i found one for about 6k in good condition but im not too certain about getting one like that. I was thinking that it would be easier to find out lightly hit and have to replace and few parts here and there.

Here is what i have found.

Clear title w/ unknown milage.




I was planning on having someone i know on rebuilding the 13b.

My other choice was this
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...n&cardist=1142

I dont know exactly how much it would cost me to get a engine/tranny for it but im guessing somewhere around 3k?

I was also wondering if it would be hard to swap in an engine in these.
I have some experience on swapping honda engines (which is not much)
and im as good of a tech as any so what do u guys think?

ArmitageGVR4

iTrader: (13)

If I were you I'd hold off and wait for a better car to come along. It will always cost you more than you expect to repair a broken one. I'd plan on more like 4-6k for just the motor/tranny replacement and who knows what else is wrong with the car that needs fixing (like I said, 3k in other things in the first year). It really depends on how much waiting and heartbreak you're willing to endure to fix up a busted one.

It took me more than 4 years to find the right one for the right price and make the purchase. If you go into the market determined to buy an FD locally in the next few weeks, you will be limited in what you will find. I picked up a '93 touring with 76k on the clock and 5k on a new PFS-installed motor for well under $10k locally. It needed some cosmetic work, basic reliability mods and some TLC but fundamentally it was in good condition. In 9 months with some blood sweat and beers, I had it in great shape.

So yea, don't jump the gun and shortchange yourself.

pro3grx7

Well im located in MI and go to school in OH. I am willing to travel to get a car up to 500 miles if in good shape. Right now i have a buyer interested in my 98 Gs-t which is up for sale for $12,000.

My actual plan was to eventually get a wide body kit installed on my FD. So if it was a little hit i dont think it would matter much.

BTW do you guys know of any selling in the ohio, Michigan, Indiana or illinois area for a fair price? Ive been searching for about 1/4 year now and i still no luck.

pro3grx7

BTW.. nice car. I am totally looking for a black rx-7.
Wanna sell?

RE-Amemiya7

FD's are not cheep on maintance, nor on gas, thats for sure. Having owned a DSM once, i would say that 3rd Gen Rx-7's require quite a bit more upkeep and patience to put up with their tempremental nature. Things have broken a lot more often on my FD than my DSM ever did. But then again this is a 16 year-old car.

If you are going to get a FD, i would hold off on getting the first one that comes by (ie. the one posted with the nasty body damage). Take your time an find a good one. If you find one $6k for a blown motor / trany-- i guarantee that it will cost you more to get it back to working order than if you bought one in good condition in the first place. They are not as expensive as they were 5 years ago, you can pick a good one up for under $18k.

With that said, a FD is worth every penny, and you will be reminded of that each time you step on the gas!