ok well it looks like ill be done the front suspension this week and time to move to the rear, now while im there ill be doing the toe links(m2's)
but im wondering if i should spend the 190 on the m2 trailing arms, or will the stocks with jimlab bushings be just as good? i mean your removing the trouble poing( stock bushing) but the m2's have a thinner shaft so it would be safer to run wider tires in back (i have 255's now but prob gonna put 285's after i burn these off) is it worth the extra 2 bills , i mean ill sell the stocks with jim's bushings installed so that will off set the price a bit.

just want any opponions thanks guys

 

I'm about head off to the tire store to get my 285/30/18s mounted on my 18X10 +44, stock trailing arms - I'll let you know how they fit.

 

I would use m2's...

waiting to install mine..once my new 18's come in..By xmas I should be ready..

 

M2 all the way.

 

I have them and like them a lot. They are great for drag racing too. They keep the back tires from toeing inward when you launch. (good for getting rid of wheel hop too).
Ernie

 

With my combo above no need for M2 arms - I'll see if I can crawl under there with my camera.

 

nice!...hmmn

so far consensus is for m2, but wouldnt it be the same thing since ill be removing the trouble point? the bushings the problem, so would the spherical bushing make a big diff, or should i say the hell with it and just buy them? credit cards are gonne love me this year

 

any more opponions?
rears just watin for my trailing arm chice ant for me to order toe-links..

 

Never really had a problem with the trailing arms....but I have replaced OEM toe links...which I hear wear out rather fast..

I went with m2 for both when I put on my new wheels

 

Oh good. This means when I order my K58s, they will be 10.5" wheels so that I can fit 295/30 18s on em

 

Oh, I have the M2 kit installed and will soon be installing Jimbo's bushings. I will keep the M2 simply because they will still give me a little bit more rooom for the wheels, and steel is still more solid than Nylon..

 

you could put 295's on 10's....10 is usually the min width for 295's...
Hey flybye..check out the suspension section...you could see what k58's look like on a silver fd

 

They COULD fit, but 285s usually have a 10.5 tread witdh, but then again, you know every tire manufacturer is different. The 295s will, obviously, be a bit wider. Remember that you don't want the tread to overlap the rim, especially on low-pro tires like a 30 series.

Well, it seems as if the 285s DO fit pretty good on your wheels....
Oh...umm.....I'm drooling :p

 

nah I have 265's....nexttime 285's

265's leave a little rim lip sticking out..not too bad actually..but there never the less..Did I ever give you my hook up ?

 

PM Me. This poor thread has gone off topic long enough :p

 

lol...somnofabithc
here i was all happy seing 14 posts...i was like damn lots o opponions...
godamnit flybye..jk..hehe

owell
guess ill get m2's as soon as i get tax re-fund

 

If you had to get one or the other i would say the bushings. I'm in the process of swaping out all the control arms in the front and back all the toe links etc...with a ones i got out of a FD with 5k on it.

It's more to it than just the trailing arms and toe links. The ball joints in the control arms go out and so do other bushigs. With Jim's kit at least you can change more of the actual suspention than just those the M2 does.

 

cant wait to get my m2 kit:p

 

oops forgot to mention i have all the rest of jims kit installed...i was just wondering since i got everything apart(alredy did shocks/ re-did brakes) i might as well put it back together right..
it seems the only difference between the stock w/ jimlab bushing, and the m2 kit is that the m2 is ofset and allows you to run bigger rear rubber---Big + for me...
but the stock rubber bushing is eliminated in both , wich is the trouble spot..owell looks like its time to sell the stock trailing arms

 

Ok lets see what we got here....


Now the kicker is that Jim's kit does NOT include bushings for the toe-control link. Sooner or later the toe-control link WILL have bad bushings in them, and you will have to replace it. Might as well have the trailing arm, also. You get the same quality helm bushing at the end where it attaches to the chassis, AND the included adapter moves it further inward as seen in this pic..

 

Good pics! I'll crawl under my car tomorrow and take pics of how much clearance there is with 18X10 +44 w/ 285/30/18s, stock trailing arm - and then maybe Johnny can take pics with his 18X10 +50 w 265/35/18s (stock or M2 trailing arm, Johnny?). Then we can compare notes. I'll wager that there is definitely room for 10.5" wheels, maybe even 11's with the M2 trailing arms.

 

BACON- Not saying that the M2 stuff does not do the job and in a perfect world you must do both. I just think if one or the other i would say the bushing kit.

 

hey sorry but i have a question about jims bushings. i just received mine today and i notice that all the metal sleeves are really loose when you insert them into the nylon bushings. r they supposed to be like this and then they tighten up when you install em or is there something wrong with mine? i mean that there is quite a bit of play when the metal is inserted, to the point where i can feel them moving from side to side in the bushings. thanks guys

 

thats exactly how their suposto be...the pin rotates inside the bushing..

ohh btw i ordered the m2 kit..and sold m,y stocks...works of me
.

 

I have the M2 toe links and like them. I am sure the trailing links are very nice as well. You certainly wouldn't be going wrong with these, but I am not sure they offer much improvement in terms of wheel hop over the stock trailing arm with a LaBreck bushing installed. Either choice is a good solution.

No one has mentioned it here, but one issue about LaBreck's trailing arm bushings bothered me a bit, but I later did some testing and found that it was not an issue. I am posting this so that anyone who thinks of this possible issue can rest assured that it does not turn out to be a problem in reality.

LaBreck's bushings are designed to give rotation about a single axis, which is defined by the bolt that goes through the bushing. If you look at the suspension, it is clear that the other end of the trailing link swings through and arc rather than a straight line since it is connected to the lower arm, which is cause for concern since the bushing is only designed to provide freedom in one dimension. However, as part of some suspension work on my rear suspension, we checked for binding and did not find any. In theory, it seems like the bushing could be the source of some binding, but we removed the shock assembly and moved the suspension through the full range of motion (and then some) and it was very free. I have LaBreck's bushings installed, and it did not cause any binding. In fact, it was better than you could reasonably hope for a roadgoing car. Totally free and easy to move through the whole range. I guess the tiny amount of play in the bushings is enough to cover the additional motion that is needed.

On the topic of how much play there is in LaBreck's bushings, it seemed just right to me. It should slide together without binding and spin free. Ideally, you should install grease fittings (I am kicking myself for not doing so) and keep them greased to take up any slack. It should prevent any noise and reduce wear in the future as well. My bushings were from the second run. If yours have a lot of play, I would first check that you are using the right center pin for the bushing. Some of them are very similar and would be easy to mix up. Jim's instructions have helpful info on how to make the right match.

-Max