I've had both in the past...I'd go with the M2 or Pettit unit but you'll need a hi-flow cat or a plate in one of the pipe connections to provide from back pressure so you can control boost better. I liked the PFS unit back 6 years ago, but if you aren't go to be able to spend any money for a while, then go with the chipped ecu since you DON'T want to learn how to tune the PFS unit and screw things up.
I made 316 rwhp at 13 psi with the M2 ecu and hi-flow cat. Power came on hard after transition...jump in rwhp of almost 50 hp in about 500 rpms.

Tim

 

Tim, what mods did you have at that time when you made 316rwhp at 13psi ?

 

PFS Purple Box, without a doubt. For all the reasons stated above.

My mods are listed below and my qtr time is 11.68 with a cat, by the way. I run race fuel to stay in one piece but I get 17-18 lbs out of the stock (70,000miles) twins.

I suggest you forget the midpipe if you want to run sequential twins. The midpipe is the key to blown engines, not the PFS unit or the ecu in general, unless its bad tuning.

I tried to get Farrell to sell me a midpipe and he told me that ported or not, the wastegate is too small. Both the PFS and M2 can't save you in time from a serious boost spike.

I say your most cost/effective move is the Farrell unit, a high flow cat, and some dollars spent with a good tuner.

 

well based on what he was wanting to get done...he doesn't appear to want to spend 150 to 200 on a hi-flow cat, or 250 to 400 for a tuning session with a tuner that knows how to handle the now outdated PFS PMC. Go with the chipped ECU until you do have the money to spend on the tuning session and also have money in reserve for any mistakes with the unit. Keep the M2/pettit under 12 psi and your safe. Buy a 1/8 or slightly thicker flange for the car that is only 2.5 inches thick and you'll have instant back pressure to help control boost in the 12 psi range. At the time with the M2 if I remember correctly, I had a M2 intake, IC, efini y pipe, dp, hi-flow cat, PFS catback, and HKS twin ignition...for the power mods with the lighter flywheel and pullies freeing up hp.

Tim

 

What about the pfs settings it comes with, how reliable are they? Does the pfs really require tuning if you can use the stock pfs settings, via the switch? I was thinking of getting a pfs computer, but don't want to mess with tuning. I hear the pfs settings can let you run most of the bolt ons at a flick of the switch, of course excluding the midpipe w/o ever tuning.

So if the above information is correct get yourself a boost controller, boost gauge, highflow cat and do 3" the rest of the way, and get a pfs and just run rich @ 10 or 12 lbs. Should be good for at the very least 300hp. But then you would have to upgrade the intercooler as well to cool your boost charge.

 

The theme of the forum seems to be everyones cars different. For some cars the default setting on the pfs pmc may be alright, but on others it may not be. All be told get it tuned and all will be well. Also if its tuned well you don't have to run to rich, because doing that will sacrifice some power. YOu only need to be a little rich to be on the safe side.