Androidmj

I just put in silicone hoses on my engine and a new fluidyne radiator, it has 32000 miles on the original engine. My vacuum was 20 before i put them in, but my turbos only got 5psi, now i started it with everything put back together. I now get 10 vacuum and haven't driven it at all, only idled it. Its really cold out and the last time i started it was two weeks ago. The reason i say that is because there was a LOT of white smoke coming out of the exhaust.

Also, the worm clamp i put in to connect the Y pipe to the rubber coupler is wedged between the rubber and the air pump. I am going to remove all necessary parts to get it unwedged because i know the airpump will cause alot of vibrations against that.

could my engine be blown?

or could i have not reconnected some hose?

Androidmj

oh also, my car hasn't been hitting 3k rpm when i start it up cold, it used to but stopped after i put in new spark plugs, this was a problem before i did the hoses as well. It struggled some, but drove really well before. Now when i started it, at first it did the same thing, then i realized i forgot the clamp on the intake elbow hose. I started it and it went a little above 3k rpm, I blipped the gas and it fell to around 2k rpm, the vacuum was still at 10.

Androidmj

ya, one more thing, my brake pedal is really tight and is hard to push down.

My intake manifold shakes alot, but i never actually got it up to operating temperature so i'm not sure if this is an issue.

clayne

Brake booster.

Androidmj

anyone have any advice?

Androidmj

^

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the Brake Booster line as clayne suggested?

One of the lines off the hard pipe should have a check valve in it (should be the line on the driver's side, however the original design had the check valve on the passenger side line). If you got crazy and replaced those lines, you need to have the check valve.

Androidmj

Ya i checked the brake booster, the passenger side line does not have a check valve in it, but the driver side one does, and i checked it and made sure it was working just now.

One other thing, i have a electrical connector not hooked up to anything in front of the battery (as close to the bumper as you can get). What is this for, i'm assuming it has to do with the air conditioning because the ac compressor and lines have been removed.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, simple logic. If you had 20 inHg of vacuum before the hose job, and now you don't.... the error is somewhere in your work. Recheck your work with the hose job.

As far as the connector, it's probably for the AC condensor (however without a pic it's just a guess).

Androidmj

ya i'm gonna recheck the hoses...heres the connector

Androidmj

i was just thinking....well first, i'm doing the compression test and rechecking the hoses/working on the car tuesday and wednesday this week...

anyway, i was thinking, a few weeks ago when i put the car in the garage to do the hoses, I started it from outside the garage and put it in the garage about 10 seconds after starting it, and then shut it off. When i went to start it after doing the hoses it took about 6 seconds of cranking to start it. So i was thinking could it possibly be flooded?

I was reading some posts and saw that it would smoke really bad if it is flooded (which it was smoking A TON of WHITE smoke)...but would a flooded engine also have 10in of steady vacuum and run really really rough? and would the smoke be white?

just a question that was on my mind

rzograbian

this might not be much help but did you connect the hose back to the map sensor? that is the problem most of the time but you will get black smoke if you didnt. its something worth checking.

Androidmj

i made sure to check that hose several times, definatley connected. Can anyone tell me if any of this could be due to it being flooded or what color the smoke would be if it was flooded?

duboisr

Flooded = black smoke ,,,, water= white smoke ,,,,antifreeze = white smoke-sweet smell ,,, , blue smoke = burning oil

Androidmj

ya, so i check everything and i ended up having the map sensor plugged into the throttle body...the bar that looks like a vacuum nipple but isn't...anyway, i gotta go pick up some worm clamps and then i'll be startin her up and seein whats up.........also, the smoke was definatley white and the map sensor was definatly not connected...still wondering why the smoke wasn't the slightest bit black

WaLieN

MAP Sensor: 674 RX7Club: 2

Again, the MAP Sensor foils us again. Anyways, I'm glad that you fixed your problem -- always be sure to check the MAP sensor 1st. (I knock it off when I change the oil sometimes).