Rubberdown

so... these are just thoughts and questions that are appearing to me... so if anyone can answer this stuff for me I would appreciate it. I am thinking of purchasing an FD but want to be very informed of what works, what goes boom, etc etc.

rev limited at 8000 rpm due to the apex seals floating. is this any better with the 3mm ceramic seals?

upgrading the fuel system and switching to a single turbo, what is the lag like with a single turbo. something like a T-78 turbo has spools at like 4000 in an FD i think... but i dont know what the air requirements are for the rotary. If someone wanted around 450 hp, with decent spool charactersitics, what would be the recommended turbo. I have read about upgrading the primary injectors to 720cc and the secondary to 1220. What brand of injectors are people running. For fuel and boost managment, what do people recommend. I have read many positive things about the PFC to do the piggy back fuel system but how much does that limit me with fuel control? Can something like motec control boost and fuel and ignition better than 3 standalone systems for boost, fuel, and spark. I know there is a large price difference but what are the advantages or disadvantages of going with the various systems.

Do any of these engine control units have a high quality knock sensor or do you go with an aftermarket one? What about the o2 sensor?

Doing a v-mount intercooler... what system provides the best cooling. i know the FMIC will provide better inlet tempatures but at the cost of higher operating tempatures for the engine, and with more damage occuring to the intercooler from rocks and what not.

Fluidyne radiator. is there an o my god model that will make cooling a non-issue. an upgraded water pump? do people perform porting on the water jackets or whatever?

street port vs. whatever... what are advantages and disadvantages, and what power levels can be expected from the various types of porting available.


I researched and searched for the last several weeks, but havent found all the answers yet. Sorry if I missed something through search. Thanks a bunch in advance.

Ryan

TheCrazyAZN

iTrader: (2)

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I believe the engine balancing and engine bearings also play a role in limiting the engine RPM.

Actually I would *guess* that a 3mm seal is more likely to float (it's got more inertia), but I'd call a few engine rebuilders and see what they say. I'd also check my Racing Beat catalog if it was with me.

[/QUOTE]upgrading the fuel system and switching to a single turbo, what is the lag like with a single turbo. something like a T-78 turbo has spools at like 4000 in an FD i think... but i dont know what the air requirements are for the rotary. If someone wanted around 450 hp, with decent spool charactersitics, what would be the recommended turbo. I have read about upgrading the primary injectors to 720cc and the secondary to 1220. What brand of injectors are people running.
[/QUOTE]
I'd do some digging in the single turbo subforum for turbo suggestions. As for injectors, many high hp cars are running 550/1600 or even 800/1600. Definitely it's better to avoid the bored-out injectors (e.g. 1300s). Bored injectors do work, but there just seem to be more bad ones than with conventional flow sizes.

The Apexi PFC is a full standalone, not a piggy back. It will control fuel, ignition, and boost. I'm not a guru on the subject of tuning, but the PFC remains popular with some very powerful setups. The only reason the PFC boost control is not recommended is because it's designed to control the stock boost pill & solenoid setup. The pill and stock solenoid are the weak link, so an aftermarket electronic boost controller or manual boost controller replaces the pill & solenoid and does an overall better job.

Fluidyne/Koyo/etc is highly effective. As long as you're set up to feed it plenty of tightly ducted air, you will have few temp issues. Replace the stock hoses and caps with OEM parts, address the AST issue and you'll be good to go.

If you still have too much heat, improve the oil cooling.

Street port = simple port enlargement over stock. Emissions aren't as good, but idle quality remains pretty good. I think 20-50hp can be gained this way, depending on how aggressive it's done, the supporting mods, and tuning.
Bridge port = street port plus an additional port alongside of it. The 'bridge' refers to the band of metal left in between these ports. It doesn't idle smoothly, gives that brap-brap-brap sound like a performance cam. It also won't pass any emissions tests and is getting pretty damn loud. Excellent performance.
Race port = more porting still. As implied, not too practical for anything but a race situation.

Did you follow some of the links off of the FAQ? As well, some of the top engine builders have excellent tech info on their sites too. The single turbo forum here is also loaded with informed people that may not mingle much in the 3rd gen section.

Dave