Posting in this section cause my t2 has 93 rew engine in it. Its a single turbo microtech fully built car 500 whp on e 85.
It all started on thursday I drove in to wrk for a saftey inspection I had been waiting for a nice day w no rain. On way home I got on it in 3rd only till 6000 rpm . When I pushed the clutch in throttle was stuck for a few seconds bounce ing off rev limiter. Scared me but that should not hurt anything. I used to launch my old car off rev limiter at track . Shortly after this though car felt wierd so I thinking great maybe it blew. As soon as it acted wierd I got off highway pulled over at safe place . Car was losing all power. I tried to crank it still cranks so not locked up. After getting out popping hood relized all oil was everywhere. It looks like a oil line popped it a fc oil cooler. Had it towed home. Here is my question for e everyone. Should I attemp fixing leak fill w oil and try to start. Or pull motor cause I may have damaged bearings and mor. I talked to to reputable rotary shops. One said it may b ok . The othe said u ffff..ed. the guy I. Bought car from who built the motor said fix leak and try to start and do compression che k . What do guys think
. 'll I will b cleaning it today and finding leak spot
Thanks for reading
John

 

Depends if you completely drained the oil and how long you ran it after. Good sign that it still cranks easily.

I popped an oil line off at the track on a long straight. Dumped all my oil and didnt realize until the next turn. Shut her off right away. Engine was perfectly fine afterwards.

 

Thats good to hear . Well either way I will b installing a oil pressure gauge w a warning of some sort after this. I was looking at everything trying to see if it was a fuel issue oil never even came in my mind till I saw it.after I get it cleaned up ill dump some oil through it to see if there are metal shavings in pan.

 

This is why Mazda put an oil level sensor in stock. Do you not have one or have it bypassed? They are VERY necessary on FC's as FC oil cooler lines have problems more often than not.

Hopefully the motor is OK. I would drain oil, fill oil and change filter, run for 15 or so minutes until the car is warmed up, then change oil and filter again. If you did to some metal on metal, this may help get some of it out the system.

I would be worried first about the turbo/turbos, if they ran dry for a bit they could start to fail/smoke. I think that would be the first point of failure.

Dale

 

Something similar happened to me several years back. I'd say add more oil and give it a crank. If it fires up and idles/runs smoothly than you're very luck... If it fires but runs rough turn it off immediately!! Chances are you've spun bearings, if so than running more than needed can/will just spread the damage out...

I had to replace the e-shaft, rear rotor, and have my rear/center irons lapped an nitrated when this happened. I also replaced both stat gears and the front stack to be safe. The turbo was a write off due to lack of oil...

 

Spent a few hrs today just cleaning oil off of the car and decreasing the engine bay. I also found the oil line at the top of oil cooler popped off . They were aftermarket steel braided lines. I then put a paper towel covering the hole in my oil drain pan. I poured a quart of oil through to see what I got. I was expecting to c big metal shavings . Shining a bright light into oil I did see some metal sparkle. Very fine. Im a automotive painter I its way finer than any metalics in paint and did not look like it was excessive.I will order a oil line monday.

 

I say fix the leak and try to get it running. It seems to me that it should have started with no oil in it, so you may have some problems.

 

Ok well busy weekend but today finally tried to start the car. No luck I never got my new oil cooler lines but I just used hose and bolts to plug the leak. I did compression test next. No good 45 psi front. 30 rear. Guess I drove it to long w no oil. I also found the oil level sensor unplugged . I will be making sure that is fixed before new engine is in
Any thoughts to what the inside of this engine will look like?

 

Your eshaft is probably toast, rotor bearings have likely walked, your irons may have light gouging in them from the rotor tips. Your rotors are probably also display pieces.

On the plus side, your housings may be useable. Maybe.

Your oil pan will have a TON of glittering bearing material in it, as will your oil coolers.

Honestly you may want to consider just buying a new motor from mazda and using this one as a core. Get comfy with the thought of replacing EVERYTHING!! That way you csn be pleasantly surprised if anything survives.

 

Nice. When I ordered my oil cooler lines from mazdatrix they said to have oil cooler sonic cleaned by a place that does helicopter maintenance. Or replace it. What a costly mistake not having a warning for oil level. Other than this the car was perfect. I have seen some built short blocks in the fs section. Maybe that would b a good route to take

 

If I recall correctly,I am sure that Aaron Cake has a write up of some sort on cleaning the oil cooler with diesel fuel.

 

I took my oil coolers to the parts wash station at the shop and ran the cleaner through (both directions) THOROUGHLY!! I can only hope that was enough.

When I get a chance I'll share some pictures of what I found when I tore my motor down..

 

Yes pics would be nice. It would b nice to have some usable parts. But who knows . I talked to a local guy yesterday who has like 4 engines that are tore down most of them with one good gousing and rotor. I dont know the condition but could prob pick up cheap. Also the guy who built my car said he still has a lot of parts left .

 

Here is the tear down of my bad (front) half of the engine when mine lost all its oil. I was on the highway when it happened I was on the side of the road stopped within 1/2 mile of when the bucking and vibration started. If got more oil in and had to limp the car up to the next exit, about 3/4 of a mile away.

The rear rotor/housing/iron was fine, but my front was trashed. New stat gears, new front stack, new e-shaft, new oil pump, etc., etc., etc. If it had oil pass through it, it got replaced.

This post is from my build thread, back in early 2014.

 

More pics from that same post (12 picture limit..)

 

(more pics for ya)

 

Wow the pics look nasty. Im still trying to decide if I should tear into mine or try to find a diff shortblock. Either way it sucks