loop steering rack?
#1
teehee
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loop steering rack?
I have recently removed the Power Steering on my FD, but I am not sure how to delete the power steering on my Steering Rack.
I know Gotham Racing has a kit for it: here
I kind of need it this weekend though, so there is really no time for shipping and I am aware that you can also just rig it up yourself as a DIY Project..
I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or a detailed discription on HOW to do it.
Thanks.
I know Gotham Racing has a kit for it: here
I kind of need it this weekend though, so there is really no time for shipping and I am aware that you can also just rig it up yourself as a DIY Project..
I was wondering if anyone had any pictures or a detailed discription on HOW to do it.
Thanks.
#2
I sent my PS rack to Maval manufacturing [http://www.mavalgear.com/], and had them convert the rack to a manual. They have a guy there that does nothing but ps systems for hot rods. He gut the hydraulic lines, punched out the piston inside, added new tie rod ends, there's a part to weld that eliminates the roughly 5 degrees of play in the rack, and painted it. I don't have my receipt, but I paid somewhere around $140, lifetime warranty. It feels great and is MUCH easier to than those I've driven using a loop.
#5
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I don't have any pics, but I'll describe my changes.
The 4 connections (pressure hose from pump, 2 hard lines to center of rack, return hose to cooling loop) where the column meets the rack were removed. I then plugged the holes with $.50 pieces from the hardware store. They were for 3/8" or 7/16" holes, IIRC.
This is a good time to crank the steering all the way over several times to drain fluid through the open hard lines.
Because the piston remains inside the housing, we need to connect the two hydraulic fittings on the rack. This will allow fluid to move from one side of the piston to the other as the steering is turned. I removed both hard lines from the rack and cut a section from the middle of the longer line. The first end was reattached in its original location on the passenger side, while the other end went into the other fitting in the center of the housing. Finally, I bent this line to point at the first fitting and connected the tubes with a small piece of hose and a couple of clamps.
The 4 connections (pressure hose from pump, 2 hard lines to center of rack, return hose to cooling loop) where the column meets the rack were removed. I then plugged the holes with $.50 pieces from the hardware store. They were for 3/8" or 7/16" holes, IIRC.
This is a good time to crank the steering all the way over several times to drain fluid through the open hard lines.
Because the piston remains inside the housing, we need to connect the two hydraulic fittings on the rack. This will allow fluid to move from one side of the piston to the other as the steering is turned. I removed both hard lines from the rack and cut a section from the middle of the longer line. The first end was reattached in its original location on the passenger side, while the other end went into the other fitting in the center of the housing. Finally, I bent this line to point at the first fitting and connected the tubes with a small piece of hose and a couple of clamps.
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#8
HAHA V8
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Originally Posted by rotorex
I sent my PS rack to Maval manufacturing [http://www.mavalgear.com/], and had them convert the rack to a manual. They have a guy there that does nothing but ps systems for hot rods. He gut the hydraulic lines, punched out the piston inside, added new tie rod ends, there's a part to weld that eliminates the roughly 5 degrees of play in the rack, and painted it. I don't have my receipt, but I paid somewhere around $140, lifetime warranty. It feels great and is MUCH easier to than those I've driven using a loop.
#11
HAHA V8
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by turbogarrett
$140? I paid $275 to have my rack done by them. Either way it was $$ well spent, my steering felt a little squirrely at higher speeds on the track with the loop.