Looking for voltage source that holds voltage during cranking (in dash/gauge area)
#2
BadAss DoItYourselfer
iTrader: (9)
There is one that supplies constant 12v to the stereo system for the memory. I don't remember the wire color, but you can easily find it in the stereo harness with a multimeter. Also the corresponding fuse is in the under dash fuse box. Its on the bottom row middle and its the only raised fuse. (It sits on a higher platform than the other fuses)
#3
You would be looking for wiring that is 'always hot' direct 12V from the positive post of the battery. As stated above, you would want something like the constant 12V wire to the stereo unit (which allows it to keep its settings when ignition is turned off).
If you do tap into this wire, add a suitably sized fuse very close (as close as practical) to the point where you tap in. An inline fuse holder with suitably rated blade fuse will do.
I say this because the new wire you are running, will always have hot 12V going through it (even if the ignition is off), and one rub or pinch on something metallic like the pipe frame behind the dashboard, could potentially cause a fire at any time. One of my cars burnt to the ground because the factory failed to add a fuse in a constant 12V wire, and it shorted out like that.
If you run a 10A new wire, put a 5A inline fuse in it (assuming the current draw of the system you are adding is less than 5A, etc) that way the fuse blows long before the wire gets hot and catches alight.
All the wiring you do, should always be of the highest workmanship you can do
If you do tap into this wire, add a suitably sized fuse very close (as close as practical) to the point where you tap in. An inline fuse holder with suitably rated blade fuse will do.
I say this because the new wire you are running, will always have hot 12V going through it (even if the ignition is off), and one rub or pinch on something metallic like the pipe frame behind the dashboard, could potentially cause a fire at any time. One of my cars burnt to the ground because the factory failed to add a fuse in a constant 12V wire, and it shorted out like that.
If you run a 10A new wire, put a 5A inline fuse in it (assuming the current draw of the system you are adding is less than 5A, etc) that way the fuse blows long before the wire gets hot and catches alight.
All the wiring you do, should always be of the highest workmanship you can do
#5
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Yes. I mean i know it will drop a bit during cranking, but like the fuel pump. I know I could tap the fuel pump, but just would like something easier under the dash.
Ill check those audio connections.
#6
Is there any conclusion to this? I'm also looking for a constant 12v near the dash that holds power during cranking.
I need it because of a gauge that is losing power for a very short amount of time when cranking... thus losing its saved settings. I found a different post from a while ago that showed a 12v constant in the same area but it loses power during cranking.
I'm trying to avoid running a line to the battery.
I need it because of a gauge that is losing power for a very short amount of time when cranking... thus losing its saved settings. I found a different post from a while ago that showed a 12v constant in the same area but it loses power during cranking.
I'm trying to avoid running a line to the battery.
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#9
Rotary Enthusiast
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that may work, but by design, capacitors are seriously only going to last for a second.
you didn't answer my first question though. What kind of gauge do you have? It should be fine to operate between the voltages of cranking and should not lose data like that. If it does, either get rid of it and RMA it.
you didn't answer my first question though. What kind of gauge do you have? It should be fine to operate between the voltages of cranking and should not lose data like that. If it does, either get rid of it and RMA it.
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