i've decided to buy a 3rd gen. rx7. which one should i get? 93, 94, or 95? should i pay little more for a lower mi. 93 or a high mi. 95 (or even 93 or 94)? should i get one with after market equip'ed or should i get one with lower priced and add them on later on myself? i am thinking that i will probably need to rebuild the engine and possibly the turbo(s) when i get the car but most says they already have rebuilt engine/turbo. how can i tell if they are done correctly? i have no idea as to how and where to look for problems on this car so help me out guys.
i've seen 93 for around 13K all the way upto 30K. how much should i expect to pay for a third gen rx7?
thanks alot!

 

dont buy a 93 .. they have so many lil stupid issues.. i would personally buy a 94 .. from my experiece they are the nicest.. nicer enteriors 2 ..and if i were you i would buy a stock.. one with preferabbly rebuilt engine/turbos.. ... if i had it 2 do over again thats what i would do.. good luck

 

I bought a '93 Touring from a shop in NC. They can be a bit of a pain in the azz, but they have made up for it by sending me free stuff if I found that piece on my car that I didnt' think was to my liking. We're talking like $800 worth of stuff and they even paid the shipping!! But racer 11 is right, the '93s do seem to have a few more issues unless all of the factory recalls were done on them. You can get the VIN number and take it to any Mazda dealer and they can tell you wether or not they've been accomplished. Best of luck to you bro. I hope that you get the car you want. Laterz.

Zach

 

I would also consider a 94, they did not have as many recalls as the 93's did. You can probally find one in good condition for around 20K with low millage on it. I payed 20,500 for my 94 with 37,000 miles on it. If you saw a 93 with 13K miles on it, quite possibly it has 13K on the new engine. I highly doubt that a 93 Rx-7 has 13K on the chasis. Check out this link, it will help you on things to look for when buying a used Rx-7. http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/buyaused.htm
Good luck, and welcome to the forum

 

also, i would try to find an Rx-7 with no modifications, or reliability modifications. But then again, buying a modified car takes half the fun out of doing it yourself.

 

The newer the year, the better. But there are always good deals floating around even on 93's. Just take your time and look for the RIGHT car, because it is out there.

 

If you've replaced almost everything on the car with new - then ther's no difference between a 93, 94 or 95. Interior is the same unless you got a R1 or R2 then the seats will not be leather. The suspension is stiffer on the R models but the 94 or 95 R2 is probably the most expensive. If your car was done by a reputable rotary shop then I'd spend the extra to buy it. For example you can find a decent 93 with 50K miles for about $14-16K stock. Figure on new/rebuilt turbos and engine within a few years thats between $5K to $8K depending on what you want. So you're already up to $20-23K without modding and you''' want to mod it eventually. I'm selling my car this spring for around $21K and it has everything done to it - all reliability mods, recalls, hybrid twins, new engine, rims, spoiler, upgraded stereo, etc. If you're planning on building a powerful FD, get one with a blown motor and go from there - or get one that's already done up and rip the paint off 99% of all other cars on the road - it's up to you. Good luck

 

wow, thanks everyone!
i am more of a hadling and brake kinda guy, not much of excessive horse power... you know? i found 2, 93 with 55K miles on it for about $15K. but most of cars have their engines rebuilt around 60K so should i just look for a blown motor cheap(er) and put a new one in? if i get one, i probably won't do much to the engine except if i have to rebuid it, i won't modify much...but probably put bigger rad, some suspension work and brakes. what would you consider as "reliable" mods?
thanks!

 

If you want super reliable I came up with a good list.

M2
M2 Downpipe 93-95 RX-7
$295.00

Pettit
Aluminum Air Seperator Tank
$149.00

Koyo
Koyo Radiator 93+ RX-7
$369.00

M2
Carbonfiber Airbox 93-95 RX-7
$485.00

HKS
HKS Twin Power Ignition for 93+ RX-7
$420.00

HKS
HKS Harness for 93+ RX-7
$29.00

M2
M2 Medium SMIC for 93-95 RX-7
$1,495.00

M2
Battery Relocation Kit 93-95 RX-7
$289.00

Hyper Ground
Hyper Ground System (Silver ($120), 93-95)
$120.00

Autometer
Autometer Dual Pods (Autometer Dual Pod (93+ RX-7))
$33.00

Apexi
EL Meter Link Control
$75.00

Apexi
EL Meter Boost Gauges (BLACK, Options)
$178.00

Apexi
EL Meter Water Temp Gauges (BLACK, Options)
$178.00

Racing Beat
Ultra Street Ignition Wires for 93-95 RX-7
$85.00

NGK
Platinum set 93+RX-7
$44.00

RX-7 Store
Vacuum Hose Upgade Kits (Blue, 93-95 RX-7 ($118))
$118.00

I'm pretty sure thats all thats needed as far as keeping the temps down and being "reliable".

I also have a Power FC Commander in the list but didn't include it here because if you keep the boost down with a boost controller you shouldn't have too many issues with fuel.

 

that list looks about right, any of you senior members want to comment on it? *bump*

 

Also. The grounding straps and the vacuum hoses can be had for much cheaper if you get the parts from Home Depot and do it yourself. The battery relocation isnt a must, but it frees up engine space. I chose M2 for the DP because it is supposedly the best quality, and for the intake M2 is not the only option, but I would recomend a cold air intake or some sort.

 

is there anything bad about the engines or exhaust on the 93 or is it the same, ive heard that 93s spike worse or somthing along those lines, is any of this true?

geoff

 

The 93s had more recalls, I know that for sure, but once those are taken care of I don't think there is any big difference in the drive train.

 

First of all, dohoon, have you read the newbie stickie? It has links to buyer's guides for FDs.

Secondly, I have many issues with DaedelGT's reliability list, especially considering he doesn't even have one.....

*you don't need an intake for reliability. Making more power doesn't make the car more reliable. That said, that intake is a good choice.

*you don't need an aftermarket ignition on a mildly modded car. That's just a waste of money.

*You really don't need an aftermarket IC if you are keeping the car close to stock. Again, $2000 (IC+elbow+intake) is a waste of money for stock power levels.

*A grounding system is debatable. I would never buy a "kit". Just go buy some 2-gauge wire.

*I would never pay $85 for spark plug wires. Just get the OEM wires.

*Don't do the "hose job" until you have to. You'll be pissed off when you break solenoid nipples or put a hose back on incorrectly....

My list for PURE reliability:

*downpipe
*Fluidyne radiator (IF the stocker is in need of replacing)
*aluminum AST
*boost and water temp gauges
*full 60k service when you get the car (unless you have maintenance records)

If you are more of a handling guy, you will be spending enough money as it is replacing all the rear suspension bushings, worn out shocks, etc.

 

I was told last night that the ignition system helps a lot... Yes I am a newb, but I'm trying to absorb. Thanks for your list rynberg, its hard to get a straight answer to what I ask because of my uber newb status.

 

I'd get a 94-95. And try and find one with a warrenty. Thats how I got mine. Check out lamotorcars.com. They always have an RX7 around. Thats where I got mine at.

Nick

 

An ignition system really isn't necessary until running much higher boost and power than stock. If you are getting break-up before that point, you have a malfunction with your ignition system and adding an HKS will just be a band-aid.

BTW, I wasn't trying to insult you because you are new. I love your term "uber newb"....

 

i would definitely get a 94+ over a 93. the climate control ***** look nicer on the 94

if you plan on modding your car and don't want to spend a lot of $$$ buy a modded one. buying a stock one and modding it is expensive and you will never get your money back if you sell it later on.

if you want a nice project car then get a stock one so you can put on exactly what you want, but like i said, it's going to be a lot more expensive.

i would also look for a lower mileage one. there's no guarantee on the engine, but the suspension and other parts will probably be in better shape than on a higher mileage one, in general.

if you can find one in good condition with bad engine i'd rather get that...pay a little less then get a engine yourself. that way you know exactly the condition of the engine, and if you end up blowing it, you know who to blame :p

good luck.

 

I agree with rynberg 100% on the mods for you..to save money on the AST you can even do the M@ elimination kit that costs $40 - I did it and it works great - forget the HKS ignition - it will heat up your coil too much - stock ignition is great - but stock plugs and wires are the best IMO. DP is a must - it'll give you another 15-20 hp and reduce alot of heat and tress on the turbos. Radiator is a nice upgrade for cooling. You don't need anything else mod wise if you're just into handling - but make sure to do the fuel filter - alot of people ignore this.

 

I just got off the phone with LA Motorcars and those guys are ******* awsome. The warranties they have on the 7s are full drive train warranties. They are nation wide, and cover the engine, the turbos, the exhaust, the transmision, the IC, and everything else but the radiator. They just got a Red 93 in that has a perfect interior and has been garaged its whole life. Ummm, what else... the Montego Blue 93 has a brand new engine they installed and only has 50 miles on it. It has a Fluidyne radiator that was installed at the same time. Very knowledgeable people from what I got out of the conversation. I think I'll probably buy through them because of the warranty.

Two cents from the uber newb.

Mods: can you change my title to "The uber newb" I like it

 

You can buy mine for $25K.... Everything is done. 10second street car with everyday reliablilty.

 

I think one of, if not the, most important reliablity modification has not been mentioned: a computer. If you simply slap on the intake, exhaust and an intercooler, for example, you're going to need to upgrade your engine managment at some level to keep from running lean.

Kyle

 

i've found two rx7s. 95 with less than 60K mi and some mods for $25K and a 94 with 93K mi w/o mods for $17.5. i don't like either colours but i am going to make some phone calls tomorrow.
what are the differences between 13A and 13B engine? 95 said it has a 13A engine but i've seen 13Bs on 3rd gen RX7s. ???
thanks

 

only if you boost over 10psi

 

You are by all means entitled to whatever conclusion you come to. I, however, disagree with your statement regarding the boost pressure and lean run condition.

By your statement, that would mean that the 3rd generation RX-7, or many other cars, could have attatched anything as long as the boost pressure did not exceed 10 psi. If this were so, that would mean that a full open exhaust, huge intercooler, air intake, ported throttle bodies and intake and everything else that will lean out the stock computer could be used with no problems as long as 10 psi of boost was not exceeded? If boost pressure is the only concern, could the statement be taken to the extreme and a single turbo put onto the motor and ran successfully via the stock comptuer? Obviously not. I don't think you will find many people who have delt with rotary motors, or any motor really, that will agree with the above.

Some persons might even suggest that a computer is the best modification that can be done to the car whether stock or modified.

It's your car, your time, your money and your choice. I would, however, guard against a "10 psi is safe no matter what" method of doing things.

Good luck.

Kyle