lights out! bad fuse?
alright, this is some ****** bullshit. I've never had an electrical system problem this ridiculous. There has to be a better solution for this than just putting up with the car not wanting to turn certain lights on. I pulled the TNS relay 5 minutes ago. And other than the headlights going crazy it didn't help me figure anything out. I popped the top off of the relay and it was a little dirty inside, just not blown anywhere that I could tell. I hate electrical systems because they are all covered up and the hardest things to access.
Again, I have not touched anything but the diagnostic port. What is the real problem for this bullshit happening because I know its not something as simple as the dimmer switch. There's designated weak points in every system and they're supposed to be the fuses. I do not understand why something else would have gone first. All my fuses are intact. I will not put up with anymore crap from this car. There has to be a straight forward solution to fixing this problem without spending another 6 months pulling the car apart.
Again, I have not touched anything but the diagnostic port. What is the real problem for this bullshit happening because I know its not something as simple as the dimmer switch. There's designated weak points in every system and they're supposed to be the fuses. I do not understand why something else would have gone first. All my fuses are intact. I will not put up with anymore crap from this car. There has to be a straight forward solution to fixing this problem without spending another 6 months pulling the car apart.
MAKO... I feel your pain. I took the liberty of downloading a wiring schematic, and with the help of a patient friend of mine - spend a good day testing sections of the diagram with the mulitmeter... gradually ruling out things. In a nutshell... it goes:
BATTERY -> 60A btn FUSE -> 15A fuse -> TNS RELAY -> STUFF (parking lights, etc) -> GROUND.
We elminated the switch because of a continuity test... and that is also on the other side of the relay. For myself, the problem exists between the 15A and the Relay.
Going to Mazda with it next week... unfortunately Dave at KDR is moving so he's out of commission for a few weeks.
BATTERY -> 60A btn FUSE -> 15A fuse -> TNS RELAY -> STUFF (parking lights, etc) -> GROUND.
We elminated the switch because of a continuity test... and that is also on the other side of the relay. For myself, the problem exists between the 15A and the Relay.
Going to Mazda with it next week... unfortunately Dave at KDR is moving so he's out of commission for a few weeks.
I don't have a full day to work on just a car. I have classes, papers, and a sail boat to finish maintenance on. I'm also leaving for RR Friday morning. I'm really not happy about this since I had a zillion problems with the car and new motor and had plenty of electrical things to check to do it to get it running, and I just finished stripping it to the core inside the car for the second time in the last 4 weeks just to fix problems with it so it can finally run.
I just send JspecRacer a pm because he said he had the problem but didn't mention how to fix it. I'm about to swap my roommate's TNS relay in for mine to see if that does it. Hopefully that's it, but I don't trust that its that simple since nothing with these cars really is.
I just send JspecRacer a pm because he said he had the problem but didn't mention how to fix it. I'm about to swap my roommate's TNS relay in for mine to see if that does it. Hopefully that's it, but I don't trust that its that simple since nothing with these cars really is.
THIS IS THE MOST VENDIFFEROUS, MONUMENTOUS EVENT IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD!!!
This marks the first time in the history of my projects on this car that doing something so simple proves to be the complete solution for the problem. I changed out Kev's TNS relay and the lights are all back on.
Now somebody please tell me how to keep the headlight motors from going crazy!
This marks the first time in the history of my projects on this car that doing something so simple proves to be the complete solution for the problem. I changed out Kev's TNS relay and the lights are all back on.
Now somebody please tell me how to keep the headlight motors from going crazy!
i had the same problem
i wired the light for my boost gauge to the dimmer light fuse it shorted out and caused my lights on dash and front and tails to go out. i replaced the dimmer fuse box and it fixed the problem
Re: i had the same problem
Originally posted by TainoIndian
i wired the light for my boost gauge to the dimmer light fuse it shorted out and caused my lights on dash and front and tails to go out. i replaced the dimmer fuse box and it fixed the problem
i wired the light for my boost gauge to the dimmer light fuse it shorted out and caused my lights on dash and front and tails to go out. i replaced the dimmer fuse box and it fixed the problem
what is the dimmer fuse box? i already change my dimmer switch and my tns relay.
alright, after I kept disconnecting the battery last night about 20 times, I hooked it back up once and the things finally stopped. I guess it got bored of teasing me Hopefully it will not start up again today when I drive it. Its really annoying.
I thought it had something to do with the stock alarm, but I had the car all unlocked when I pulled it. And I tried turning the key in the door locks and ignition. None of that works. It went away for a while last night and then came on this afternoon when I turned the lights on. It did it a couple times and then stopped. But tonight on the way home, it did the same thing, except when I stopped to get fuel, it did it for half an hour straight before it stopped trying. it'll go nonstop unless you turn the lights off and turn them back on. I think the car is confused that the TNS relay is not really there although everything is working properly aside from the headlight motor malfunction. I have a new TNS relay coming tomorrow that hopefully will fix the problem. When I pulled the TNS out of my roommate's car- same year- it did not cause the headlights to do the same thing. Has anybody else had this problem?
Basically what we did was to measure the voltage on the switch side of the relay, with the switch on and off. We also could hear the relay click when we threw the switch to parking lights... presumably clicking open. However, it doesn't click back closed unless you remove it.. because there isn't power getting to it from the other side. Which leads us to our current problem. Getting power from the fuse to the relay.
lot's of weirdness going on...
okay... so I start up my car this morning and figure it's too nice out to not drive it to work. As long as I get it home before dark, hehe. So I hit my starter... which kicks in my parking lights and voila... they came back on!
But, alas... my excitement was shattered by the time I got to work - they were back off again.
I'm starting to think that maybe there is something screwy with the starter and this system... hmmmmmm.
But, alas... my excitement was shattered by the time I got to work - they were back off again.
I'm starting to think that maybe there is something screwy with the starter and this system... hmmmmmm.
lot's of weirdness going on...
okay... so I start up my car this morning and figure it's too nice out to not drive it to work. As long as I get it home before dark, hehe. So I hit my starter... which kicks in my parking lights and voila... they came back on!
But, alas... my excitement was shattered by the time I got to work - they were back off again.
I'm starting to think that maybe there is something screwy with the starter and this system... hmmmmmm.
But, alas... my excitement was shattered by the time I got to work - they were back off again.
I'm starting to think that maybe there is something screwy with the starter and this system... hmmmmmm.
okay... so I start up my car this morning and figure it's too nice out to not drive it to work. As long as I get it home before dark, hehe. So I hit my starter... which kicks in my parking lights and voila... they came back on!
But, alas... my excitement was shattered by the time I got to work - they were back off again.
I'm starting to think that maybe there is something screwy with the starter and this system... hmmmmmm.
But, alas... my excitement was shattered by the time I got to work - they were back off again.
I'm starting to think that maybe there is something screwy with the starter and this system... hmmmmmm.
It turns out it was the outbound connector to the fuse box. The wire that goes from the TNS Relay to the fuse box was loose, and the circuit was not complete anymore.
Mazda ended up bipassing the wire that goes into the harness clip (that has all 20 or so wires going into it) and just connected it on the opposite side. This way I could still use the factory fuse box.
Seems to be working quite well right now.
Good luck
Mazda ended up bipassing the wire that goes into the harness clip (that has all 20 or so wires going into it) and just connected it on the opposite side. This way I could still use the factory fuse box.
Seems to be working quite well right now.
Good luck
wtf! I know this is an old thread, but i just could not help it...
I just got done swapping engine mounts, so i had to raise the motor via a jack under the tranny and once i was done, late, tried to take it for spin and i had this wtupid problem, i checked all the interior fuses, removed and reinstalled the tns relay and shook all the wires just in case, and got nothing, wtf, has anyone here got ahold of pics on where the problem might be...what area of the engine or interior i should be looking...HELP...
ps i have a 95 pep model...
I just got done swapping engine mounts, so i had to raise the motor via a jack under the tranny and once i was done, late, tried to take it for spin and i had this wtupid problem, i checked all the interior fuses, removed and reinstalled the tns relay and shook all the wires just in case, and got nothing, wtf, has anyone here got ahold of pics on where the problem might be...what area of the engine or interior i should be looking...HELP...
ps i have a 95 pep model...
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