Thinking about this mod, are you simply moving the load to a different location in the system ?
Instead of a bunch of smaller resistors located at each of the lights, does this add up the resistance of all those smaller resistors and put it into one larger resistor that then sits in the flasher ? Does the larger resistor heat as well ?
This intrigues me.

 

I believe the original resistor is there to check the load on normal bulbs. If there's a bad bulb = less resistance and it'll trigger the flasher to flash quicker.

However, you basically put a higher rating resistor in the flasher cpu TO prevent this function therefore if theres a burnt bulb or not, they CPU would still think the bulb is good.

So in other words, the system now uses LED which are much less in resistance, but with a higher rating resistor in the CPU; which act as a blockage to check the "bulbs" and in return the CPU thinks that all the bulbs are good. Make sense?

-AzEKnightz

 

Nope, this LED simply changes how the flasher circuit works. It disables the fast flash for a burned-out bulb. It's under minimal load if that.

Dale

 

As always, nice work Dale. The resistors needed for LEDs do indeed get extremely hot, so much they will burn your hand. It is common to use a 50 watt unit like this:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/...istor_info.pdf

I have a few of these laying around and can attest to how hot they get. As Dale also points out, they consume a bunch of power, with the above using 50 watts. Dale's solution is much better.

Question - Is there any way to wire in one of the new electronic "no load" flasher units like these?:

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

I am assuming not as the flasher unit is in the CPU but one of these would solve the wattage and heat issue if it could be used.

 

I looked into those flashers but the Mazda system is so odd that it's a royal pain to figure out how to wire that in. Much simpler to fix the flasher that came with the car.

David, if you ever need it, I'd be happy to mod your CPU for you free. Your LED posts helped me out GREATLY.

Dale

 

Thanks Dale. That was what I thought but why not throw it out there? I think I will take you up on your kind offer in a few weeks. I am in FL dealing with a family matter and the car is up in NC. Has been great taking it out on the Blue Ridge Parkway and I am going to buzz down to Deal's Gap when I get back to take a spin on the Tail of the Dragon and then to map out some back roads for next year's event. Beats driving straight I-10

Back to flashers - I did test out the 25 watt version of the external load resistors versus using the 50 watt (double in size, wattage, and heat output) and the 25 watt units work just fine. If I had a set of the 8 watt units I'd throw those on but that will have to wait for now. So at least we know if you want to use the external version, the smaller 25 watt units are fine.

 

Thank you

 

Bumping this back up, I just did this mod to compliment my new LED tails. It was pretty easy to desoldier using braid, and the only issue was that the 1M ohm resistors I bought were the full size type versus the tiny compact resistor on the circuit board. But it was possible to shape the new resistor pins to the smaller dimension to fit into the circuit board. The new resistor sticks up a bit higher than the original but I don't think this is a problem...and...now the flashers are working at a normal speed!

This is a pretty easy mod, just make sure you are using a soldering pencil and not a gun so that you don't overheat the circuit board.

 

Nice and as always thank you Dale.

 

Oh this is just great! Thanks Dale! I'll be doing this sometime in the future when I upgrade to LED's

 

Any parts # or what LED bulb you guy us for the blinker front and rear, break light and the three center break light?

 

Search on that, especially in the interior/exterior forum, it's been covered.

Dale

 

^ What he said. I have posted up a number of recommendations in the interior/exterior forum.

Regarding the Dale Clark LED flasher mod, am finally going to do this next week when I am down at Kilo Racing. Trying to make Dale proud of me.

 

Good job, David!

Been bugging you about this for a while

Dale

 

pm sent Dale.

 

You can also just chop out the r1 resistor.

I don't remember what is R1 resistor value is, but 1 mega ohm is pretty high resistance.

 

That is an interesting idea. Did you try this and found that it worked?

It is actually pretty easy to desolder the R1 resistor and solder in the replacement, but if simple removal will do the job then that takes the risk out - particularly if you have never done this kind of thing before.

 

Yup tested it on my buddies car, didn't notice anything off.

If anything you can just not reinsert the flasher into cpu #2 and plug the flasher into the harness to verify if anything is off, if nothing your done

 

So basically, just use a pair of wire cutters to remove the R1 resistor? Nothing more?

 

So there is piece of the old resistor in the board ?how are you planning to install the new one ?

I simply de-soldered it , and solder the new one , pretty easy mod

 

If it's not necessary to install a new resistor, what's the purpose of de-soldering the old one? Just snip the old one in 2 seconds and be done.

 

Aaa I just read the tread and you don't need to install a new one , oh well I did

 

Well, I don't think it's been officially verified yet, that's why I was asking.

 

I haven't tried just removing the resistor so I don't know if that will work. For experiment's sake you can always de-solder the existing resistor and try it out. Desoldering a whole resistor is a lot easier than desoldering leftover wire bits.

Regardless, it's not like resistors are expensive or that this is some huge job.

Dale

 

I tested directly on my buddy's 7, just cutting out the resistor and it worked fine.

But seriously try it out de-solder the old resistor, now without reinstalling the flasher relay into CPU #2. Plug the flasher relay section back into the harness and try your turn signals. I bet your an R1 resistor it's going to work the same (no hyper flash)

Like DaleClark said, it's not a huge job. The hardest part is removing the flasher from CPU #2 and that just prying it with a flat head.....