Thanks for posting your guide in this thread as well Howard!I think its good to spread the same information (i.e. the right, and crucial information) in multiple threads.

New question:
My har has a complete Haltech PS1000 with a complete new loom. Because of this I'm unsure if the oil level sender is actually connected to anything. How do i test if the sender is being operational or not? I tried unplugging it, and the turning on the ignition (not starting the car), but no alarm or light went on.

Figured it would be a waste to buy a new one if its not being operational.

Thanks

 

What do you do if running OEM motor mounts and a brace to deal with the extra 5mm of height? I have probably 10-12mm clearance between the engine intake and my strut brace now, I don't know how much the engine moves on acceleration but it could be a few mm. My OEM mounts are new, and I want to keep them.

 

If both mount arms are steel, have them milled down 3/16".

 

 

Monkman33, what's the scoop on that oil pan? Looks baffled on the inside and has quite a big more capacity?

 

That is Len bacons pan awesome baffles with hinged doors internally and large volume. It is not cast aluminum but plate so not brittle like the above comments suggest. Awesome pan for sure.

 

This ^^

I bought in on it very early on and it was worth the wait. I had to hog out some of the main motor mount holes.

The O ring seems like it will seal well, but I have not filled the engine with oil yet. I also used a thin layer of gasket maker to assist at all the housing/plate joints.

 

How do those engine mounts attache to the subframe???
I must be missing something here, but the orientation is off, unless they connect to an adapter or these are just a jig for mock up, correct??

 

They are the FFE motor mounts. There is a bracket that bolts to the subframe that cradles the mount arm.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^
Very nice, thanks for the clarification.
I like the orientation of the bushings to accept the loads, makes more sense.

 

So since our oil level is higher than the oil pan, why is the baffle plate even needed?

Also, does the high oil level provide a cooling measure to the bottom (hot side) of the rotor housings?

 

I see no need of the baffle unless you track the car.
I don't think this oil pan provides more cooling, just prolong the heating of the oil due to more capacity and therefore takes a little longer for the rear rotor to get hot, not a significant effect IMHO.

 

Just wanted to update you guys.

Did my oil pan last weekend. Dropped the subframe completely to gain the best access possible since i do now want to do this job again. Fitted a new pan with a locally made 6mm brace complete with all the hardware. Used Loctite 5910 as sealant. Next time ill use studs instead of bolts, less scary to torque down.

Im yet to put some 5w-50 synthetic oil in the engine, messing around with the catch can and other parts. Also installed a temp sender in the drain plug. I was going to tap the banjo bolt coming from the oil pump on the front cover, but i chickened out due to some sleepless nights over space and a possible failure of the modified banjo.

When messing around changing spark plugs i accidentally broke the wire, which was already bad, from the oil level sender. When disconnecting it before doing the pan, i didn't get a warning so i guess its not included in the new haltech harness. Shouldn't cause a leak should it?

Thanks everyone!