Knocking noise from rear end Please help
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Hungry for the Power
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 191
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From: South Africa
Knocking noise from rear end Please help
Hi guys
When I change quickly to 2nd or 3rd the rear end makes a loud knock. I have checked power plant frame its tight, diff bushes look good, nothing is loose, all bushes etc are in good condition.
Anyone else experienced this problem?
When I accelerate and let go looks like the gear stick is moving a bit more than usual. Only thing I haven't checked is the engine mounts.
Thanks
When I change quickly to 2nd or 3rd the rear end makes a loud knock. I have checked power plant frame its tight, diff bushes look good, nothing is loose, all bushes etc are in good condition.
Anyone else experienced this problem?
When I accelerate and let go looks like the gear stick is moving a bit more than usual. Only thing I haven't checked is the engine mounts.
Thanks
Diff bushings are difficult to inspect in the car. I recommend changing them out with polyurethane bushings such as SuperPro. The motor mounts can be checked by prying under the mount arm against the subframe and checking the deflection of the motor. If you have the original driver's side aluminum arm, chances are it will be broken. I sell polyurethane replacements that don't vibrate the car but reduce the engine movement.
Thread Starter
Hungry for the Power
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: South Africa
OK will have to look. Are you saying the stock arm holding the motor to the subframe might be broken?
Also when I accelerate the gearbox winds like when you normally slow down. But the knocking been there a while but after launching the car now the box winds well I think its the box comes from the trans tunnel
Also when I accelerate the gearbox winds like when you normally slow down. But the knocking been there a while but after launching the car now the box winds well I think its the box comes from the trans tunnel
Returning Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 20
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From: Edmond, OK
When this same thing happened to me, it was the toe link bushings. They may look okay and seem firm sitting still, but with the force of the car's power and weight acting on them they're giving.
Yes. The driver's side is very weak as the rubber is only bonded to the arm. There is no actual bolt holding the assembly together. The engine wants to lift up as it torques, and over time this breaks the mount. You could put a second passenger side mount on the driver's side and it will be stronger, or better yet get a set of performance polyurethane mounts.
TECHNICAL UPDATE
Have you ever noticed that most 93s have an aluminum motor mount arm on the driver's side and a steel mount on the passenger side? Well, according to Ray Crow, Mazda switched from the aluminum driver's mount arm to the steel arm in late 1994 because the aluminum was causing oil pan leakage problems. Ray couldn't recall exactly what the issue was that led Madza engineers to change it up; he stated that it had something to do with a clearance problem, or perhaps the thickness of the mounts had something to do with it creating leverage on the pan (<-speculation).
SOLUTIONS
There are two solutions to this problem for those looking to either install aftermarket mounts of ressolve leakage problems with stock mounts:- Install a new OEM steele driver's side arm (about $200 from Ray)
- Install a passenger side arm on the driver's side and just don't use the heat sheild. (the passenger/driver side arms ARE interchangeable)
for those who insist on keeping the aluminum arm I believe Cody has an aftermarket motor mount kit that is compatible.
Hope that helps!
Rob
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