Pumped

I get a knocking noise coming from my front suspension

it happens during low speed turning ie: parking, turning from a stop sign etc....

anyone have a solution to these symptoms??

it better not be related to the lower control alrm/ball joints... I had them replaced with a used pair that was approved by my mechanic......

could it be that my shocks are dying??

Redrotor

I have exact same problem.
I guess the pavment around vancouver cause this problem.
of course I'm joking.I think one of the bushing but I don't worry yet.

BMike

sounds like bushings or tie rods to me

wonder1and

knocking or popping...?

Pumped

sounds more like a knock

vschopp

Yep me too. 93 early serial number. Wasn't there a TS on this issue?

wonder1and

Shocks... I doubt it... I get the same deal... I used to think it was my tie rod ends... but then I replaced them... along w/ my P/S rack... and bushings... still get it when I turn the wheel all the way to one direction.

redrotorR1

I have the same knocking noise. I'm not sure what it's coming from. I've gotten underneath the car and inspected the tie rods, sway bar mounts, the caster/camber eccentrics .... nothing, everything looks fine. I'm guessing it's the ball joints on the A-arms. I'm over 110,000 miles .... I suppose it's time.

mecman

iTrader: (11)

I think my car had bushings and A or control arms replaced at 50K. I saw that on the CARFAX before I purchased the car.

spurvo

Neat. Is this where we all admit to this problem like AA?

Yeah, me too, a clunking/knocking noise under low speed operation. Going forward or back, braking or turning the wheel. Everythings nice and tight under there, so I'm taking the "if the wheels havn't fallen off at 85 mph, it's reasonably ok" approach (still smarting from new engine, in other words...). Anybody know what's really causing this?

LAracer

Hi. My names LAracer and my suspension clunks .

DaedelGT

I had that, and it turned out to be cracked swaybar bushings.

mmaragos

Interesting...

I was just going to ask who, of those with "knocking" has stock sway bars?

Comments (from the "knockers")? Who is still stock?

memmi

wow, did not know this was such an issue. I've got it too but I think that it is something different. But perhaps some here may have a similar problem.

The bracket which bolts the control arm to the frame on my car is bent and the control arm is rubbing against the inside of the wishbone (lower). It has carved out 2 detents. When I accelerate it slides to the rear detent but when I got to stop or turn it will Pop back to the front. Making a loud pop/clunk in the process.

I'm getting a new bracket as soon as the Mazduh parts monkies can get back to me with a price!

DaedelGT

That's me!

Sparkey

I had a problem like that on my mx6 and it turned out to be cv joints that the plastic cracked and needs to be replaced but I dont know if it would be the same on the rx7 so look into that and dont quote me on it I just know it happened on the other mazda I own.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I have the same issues during low speed turns and even mild braking. I'm taking the car in tommorow to have it looked at but I'm almost positive that it's going to be the bushings in the front.

poss

iTrader: (5)

on my car, the specific bushing that made all the noise was the front lower rear bushing. Just replace them and you should be money.

I have been tossing around the idea of making stiff elastomer/polyurethane bushing kit for the front. Harder and more cost effective than stock pieces, but more forgiving than nylon. Would there any interest in this?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I'd be interested in those bushings. I've searched the forum on info regarding aftermarket bushings but it seems that they were once offered for a limited time (jimlab bushings? /unobtainium?) but am not sure if they are still available. If it does out that I do need new bushings tommorow, I will make sure to save all of the old ones and either model them in Pro/E or Solidworks so I can send the drawings out for a quote. I will need to do a little more research on the durometer rating of the stock bushings but can probably take it from there.

MilesBFree

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar issue caused by a giant pothole. It is still there after a LOT of troubleshooting. For some suggestions on what can cause this, see my site:

http://www.ScuderiaCiriani.com/rx7

and go to How-to --> Miscellaneous --> Suspension Troubleshooting.

Cheers,

Steve

MilesBFree

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, there IS a lot of good info there, but not my personal expereience - need to update the page with that.

Here is what I tried:

- installed Unobtanium nylatron bushings. Problem went away for exactly 150 miles. That would tell me that the bushings were good, and something might have been loose which re-assembling tightened up.

- rebuilt one of the shocks at the same time. Doubtful that a shock would go bad again after only 150 miles.

- Replaced one tie-rod end (one of the bolts was frozen in place even with multiple applications of Liquid wrench, torch heat, etc.)

- Lubed all surfaces with anti-seize if they could possibly move relative to one another, especially the Racing Beat brace, as someone else said theirs had the same issue caused by that brace. If the anti-seize wore off, and this was really the cause, then it might have come back after only 150 miles. The brace bolts to the steering rack mounting point, under the rack.

- It is possible that one of the bolts that holds the front subframe on is broken. The guys at A-spec are checking it out now.

- A-spec said it may be a steering rack issue, like a broken bolt, tie-rod end, internal issue.

Cheers,

Steve

7-80

Do you notice it from any particular side or can you tell? Mine has the same knocking also especially if I turn, but my driver side front strut is blown out. There is fluid all over the brake lines. It scared me at first thinking that it was leaky brake lines. Try checking your struts out.

FDeez

I had clunking the front suspension about a year ago. It turned out to be the ball joint on the passenger size a-arm. Got it replaced and it was all good. The way to really inspect it is to have the car up on a rack and rattle the pieces one by one. That's how i found out it was the problem.