ROTORhead93

^^I'm extremely interested in too. What would all the pricing be?

Raceshop

I dont want to hijack this thread but I will post all info in the next day or two. for now I need to put the welding helmet back on hang tight Larry

rynberg

Check your PMs please...thanks.

Mark McGuire

I had the clearance problem on right side. Lift strut knocked against bar when closing hatch. 5-10 bangs with a regular hammer; spray paint; voila. I had already sprayed the whole bar to cover damage done during shipping. I was swearing under my breath about how long it took me to get the bubble wrap off, which had provided very little protection. And the shipper charged me $75 extra because the gas prices had just shot up. I also had to bend the rear bars outward to get the plates in the correct location. I think others have mentioned it before, but the "removable" cross-bar is also a major pain to take out and put back in. My tall passengers can just scrunch up. I'm not taking it out again. Still, nice roll-bar for under $400 (delivered). I have a slight squeak right behind my left ear, and have been waiting for it to go away or was thinking of putting a rag in there. The sledge hammer fix sounds good.

mtmetzger

iTrader: (2)

If anyone is interested I have a hell of a deal on a Kirk bar that was made 2+ years ago. Thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=440515

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

One observation I'd like to make also. There apparently is a difference in the fitment between the 1 3/4" dia. bars and the 2" dia. bars. The 2" seemingly fit much better. I can only suppose that the original jig was made for the 2" and they "adapted" it for the 1 3/4" dia. tube with resultant annoying fitment issues. My 2" dia bar was a VERY tight fit *just* clearing the strut tower trim and with just enough room to put a felt "bumper" on the hatch struts to stop them from rubbing on the bar. That's how tight my install was/is

I helped a friend install a 1 3/4" bar the exact same way I installed mine and we had a devil of a time with his clearing the interior trim and rear hatch struts. Of course it also could be a case of Kirk's QA going to crap since I installed mine way, way back when.

Crispy

HAI-TEK7

iTrader: (31)

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!

so today i had time between both jobs. i unbolted the right rear bar and moved it toward the middle off the car about 1/2", i took i tie down strap an push the bar inward and just use the strap to hold it, not pull on the bar. checked everything and it cleared. drilled 4 new holes and job done. yeah it prolly has a little load on it, but it was the easiest and fastest fix.

thank you everyone for putting up with my ****, and i was glad to know i was not the only a-hole with this problem.

And for the M2 roll bar, WHERE WERE YOU A FEW MONTHS AGO....GEEEZZ!!!

7racer

ditto for me Larry

zullo

As Mahjik said earlier, I have the Kirk bar and had no problems installing it and have no rubbing. It did take a lot of careful measuring and alignment but went in cleanly in the end.

The rear trim suffers with the Kirk bar, as the jack storage covers have to be removed or cut, the strut tower covers have to be removed, and the side trim pieces have to be cut a bit to accomodate the bar... but I feel lots safer now on the track!

Let me know if you want installed pics etc.