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Old 05-18-03, 07:03 PM
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The Power of 1.3

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KDR tomorrow!

Well, after a long wait, tomorrow is the big day. I'm heading down to KDR to get the new engine installed. I can't wait to get the car back. But I just thought I'd start this thread to spread the (hopefully) good news about Dave and crew at KDR. They've been nothing but great up to this point, and after I meet them tomorrow I'll let everyone know how they are in person.

And of course, how the street ported motor is when I get it back!
Old 05-19-03, 07:54 PM
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Ok, here's the news thus far:
Dave is as knowledgeable in person as he is in e-mails. He knew exactly what I wanted when I got there, and took the time to go over little details of everything to make sure it was just right. He even gave me some info as to why my first engine probably blew.

While he has it, they're putting the the ported motor, new brakes, and a boost controller. The turbos will be set up non-seq when it all goes back together. I don't have an ecu yet, and Dave mentioned that running non-seq with anything more than 7 or 8 psi is dangerous, and here's why: The stock ecu knows that there is a dip in boost at or around 4200 rpm, and adds less fuel during the transition period. While turbos are non-seq, obviously there is more than the prescribed transition boost at this point, hence running lean and engine go boom. I didn't know the stock ecu took the dip into account, i assumed it just ran rich for the split second it took to regain boost. So he suggested hooking up the boost controller and leaving it off until I get a PFC
(next on the list). I thought this was a good peice of advice for anyone doing the poormans non-seq, or even the full non-seq, to take note of and perhaps save future engine failure.

Dave said I'd probably have the car back in 2 weeks, 3 weeks worst case scenario. I'll report back then to continue relating my experience with the nice folks at KDR.
Old 05-19-03, 08:38 PM
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which car is yours? I will write my name in the dirt when I get the on Friday.
Old 05-19-03, 08:43 PM
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Dave is awesome and know FDs as good as anyone on the east coast - don't count on the 2-3 weeks though - probably longer. Good luck and have with your new motor.
Old 05-19-03, 09:20 PM
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Originally posted by ZoomZoom
which car is yours? I will write my name in the dirt when I get the on Friday.
Mine the the 93 VR touring with MA plates 85F D07. Have fun!
Old 05-19-03, 09:21 PM
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Originally posted by kwikrx7
Dave is awesome and know FDs as good as anyone on the east coast - don't count on the 2-3 weeks though - probably longer. Good luck and have with your new motor.
Why do you say longer? How long was yours once they started on it? Also, since you already have the motor, how is it?
Old 05-19-03, 09:30 PM
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mine took 3 months with a 5 day estimate. Things just happen. After you take things apart you alway find parts that need to be replaced. Other errors previous mechanics made that he has to fix, lots of surprises with these cars. Until he has been in the car a few times he will always turn up ****. I was suprised when he showed me the half assed shiut previous mechanics did too it. And those were Mazda shops and even other Rotary shops. They failed to notice some obvious problems. Its in good hands, Just let him do his thing. You will get it back. Just dont rush him. He wants it out so he can get paid, they are usually just a mess by the time he gets them after all these years.
Old 06-06-03, 10:30 PM
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I heard from KDR today, so I thought I'd drop an update.

After ripping out my engine, and taking a look at everything, Dave and crew discovered that my secondary turbo was shot. Evidently there was quite a bit of play in the compressor wheel, and the guy I spoke to (who has 32 years of experience working on rotaries) said he's seen some bad turbos, but this one was REALLY bad. So it looks like I'll add BNR stage 2's to the list. (comments?)

They also found a failed oil sending unit, and the fuel pulsation dampener (sp?) was dead too. So all that will be added to the list.

The clutch was dead or going too, so I'm replacing that. Any suggestions? (looking for ~350 rwhp, no more)

On a side note, the guy I spoke to was a new guy Dave just hired "back from the west coast" in his words. Evidently Dave has so much business he needs help. Sorry I can't remember his name, but I'll post it when I talk to him monday.
Old 06-06-03, 10:39 PM
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Sounds exciting - I remember everything you are going through. Your car's in good hands. Go with the ACT street/strip clutch with heavy duty pressure plate. If you want a quicker revving car with noticeably more acceleration, go with the clutch/#9.5 flywheel from SR Motorsports. The BNR Stage 2s are great but if you go non-seq, make sure Bryan doesn't clip your wheels and you should have full boost under 4K rpms with the larger compressor wheels - if clipped it might be 4200-4300 rpms - LW flywheel helps it come down some. I run my Stage 2s sequentially and absoulutely love them. If you want 350 rwhp, you should be able to get that at 13 psi if you have a midpipe. If HF cat then probably 14 psi. Good luck
Old 06-06-03, 10:41 PM
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How long should it take to get the turbos? How long did yours take kwikrx7?
Old 06-06-03, 10:50 PM
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I suggest 99 spec twins. They are Factory new ( No cracked high mile manifolds to deal with and about the cost of upgrades with more than enough power with a quicker spool and relibale design. I would go 99 spec all the way. Ask Dave his Opinion. He might even have a set to sell. ACT street strip should be ok. The flywheel is a great idea as well. I talked to a guy (SKIP)? He is answering the phones and getting back to you fast. I like the change Dave made in this Dept.

Last edited by ZoomZoom; 06-06-03 at 10:56 PM.
Old 06-06-03, 10:54 PM
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Yeah Skip, thats it, good call. Can 99 spec twins spool as fast as BNR's in non-seq form? I've just heard so many good things about BNR that i figure I can't go wrong with them.

BTW, I agree, Skip was awesome, good guy, knows a lot, and seems very willing to help.
Old 06-06-03, 10:58 PM
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99 spec twins make 280 flywheel hp at exact same boost levels as stock twins make 255. Go with 99 specs. You wont be sorry. I have heard good and bad things about these rebuilds. Go with 99 specs they are 100% new.
Old 06-06-03, 10:59 PM
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I suggest 99 spec twins. They are Factory new and about the cost of Upgrades with more than enough power with a quicker spool and relibale design. I would go 99 spec all the way. As Dave his Opinion. He might even have a set to sell. ACT street strip should be ok. The flywheel is a great idea as well. I talked to a guy (SKIP)? He is answering the phones and getting back to you fast. I like the change Dave made in this Dept.
Old 06-06-03, 11:05 PM
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Ok, I think I'm warming up to the idea, but I have still more questions.

Can the 99 spec's be run at anything higher than 10 psi reliably?(for instance.. 12psi?)

How much (like a dollar figure, not a guess)?
Where to get (If KDR doesn't have any)?
Old 06-06-03, 11:12 PM
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Actually they can run 17 psi reliably. They create less heat and have a better compressor design. There are a few places that sell them. Check out JT-Imports.com and also do a search on here. There is a guy who sells them here, Cant remember the name. Something like Laussee or something.
Old 06-06-03, 11:13 PM
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go act S/S clutch, 99 twins all the way like mike said they can purchased from many places, srmtorsports etc for around $3000 with NO CORE. you can sell your old turbos to offset some of the cost. these turbos should last another 10 years

you can run them up to 17psi for how long nobody knows. i'd keep them around 15psi.

good luck
Old 06-06-03, 11:18 PM
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Well that sealed the deal.

$3600 for turbos!!!! I can get a single for that much. Christ if I had that to spend I'd definitely go single! No thank you

BNR's are fine with me for $1600 from rx7store.net

And c'mon, how much could I really sell a set of turbos w/102k on them, and a shitty secondary, probably with cracks in the manifold, $400, maybe. Sorry, but $3200 is still too much for factory turbos. No way.
Old 06-06-03, 11:19 PM
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there is thing i have learned. you get what you pay for
Old 06-06-03, 11:22 PM
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While that may be true, you have to look at it from my point of view. I'm a college student w/a $9000 loan on a car that is hardly worth that in its current state. I'm in the process of dropping $5k on an engine, and then i'm told I need to spend at least another $2k. Double that for the turbos, and I'm **** out of luck. I'm already borrowing money from everyone I know to pay for this, so unless you're willing to foot the bill (I take any and all donations, PayPal accepted!), I'll stick w/the BNR's.
Old 06-06-03, 11:27 PM
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you can also buy them with very low miles. Try Jesse, Thats who I was also thinking of. I just sold a good set of stock twisn for 75 bucks. I wish I knew you needed a set. http://laujesse.tripod.com/4jspec/id3.html
Old 06-06-03, 11:30 PM
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Mine were perfect with no cracks. I had boost problems so they never saw more than 8 psi. I even sold the maniolds and everything for less than 100. if you want you can contact the guy I sold them too and see if you can strike a deal. You could probably give him a few hundred and get them. let me know and I will hook you up with his Info. He is in Mass also.
Old 06-06-03, 11:45 PM
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well money is all relative to what you CAN spend.... its your car you can do whatever you want
Old 06-07-03, 08:08 AM
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Kim & Dave @ KDRotary are great people to deal with & know what they are doing. Good luck! Persevere in your quest for the Holy 7Grail & you won't be dissapointed.
Old 06-07-03, 10:11 AM
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Originally posted by ZoomZoom
Mine were perfect with no cracks. I had boost problems so they never saw more than 8 psi. I even sold the maniolds and everything for less than 100. if you want you can contact the guy I sold them too and see if you can strike a deal. You could probably give him a few hundred and get them. let me know and I will hook you up with his Info. He is in Mass also.
PM'd ya


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