RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

ok sorry.... can you keep the bellypan? also what do you think about welding a bar to the autoexe frame as above.... you could even weld it underneith so it wouldnt stick out anymore than the normal frame.....

jimlab

The problem with keeping the transmission belly pan is that there is at least one 10mm bolt, if memory serves, which attaches the rear of that pan to the stock aluminum cross brace beneath the transmission. The front two pan bolts can be seen in the picture of the Auto EXE brace system, at the rear of the engine cradle. None of the transmission braces I've seen pictures of have mounting provisions for it, so I don't see how you'd be able to keep it.

It's certainly an option, and combining the braces would effectively tie the differential brace into four mounting points instead of only two.

POM HB

ZeroR,

will you make all the braces mentions as a kit? I think RotorMotor is also interested!

POM HB

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

^VERY interested! ill help hype it if you make it..... otherwise, ill just get the autoexe set and weld a bar on, then get your tranny brace

POM HB

Well???????

Zero R

iTrader: (1)

I will have them made but, it may be a while so don't wait on me, I have just too many projects going on at the moment.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

what exactly are you making? well i guess thats not a good question to ask cause someone will take your idea... sorry. so anyway, when would you expect these pieces to be done? i probably wont need mine for awhile

suganuma

I would guess that, among other things, the guys over at A-Spec are spending a lot of time aquiring and building parts for gt35/40 and gt40R turbo kits. A lot of demand and hype built up...

Modifying the autoexe braces to incorporate the tranny and diff braces already in use should not be too difficult. All you would need is some scrap steel (i'm assuming that the autoexe braces & diff brace are steel and not aluminum), measuring device, at minimum a decent flux core welder, and a bandsaw or something else to cut with. If I wasn't in a position to move in a few months and every year or two after due to being in the military, I'd do it....and quite a few other projects.

JoeRoa

The solution is more easy:
,just buy the mazdaspeed Power plant frame or modify the standar one and buy the AUTO-EXE Member Bar and you never gona have eny problem.

http://www.corksport.com/main.php3?p...3Fcat%3D214926

http://www.corksport.com/main.php3?p...3Fcat%3D214919

SleepR1

The chassis bracing is overkill IMO. The FD3S chassis is already quite stiff as a monocoque design. You're just adding extra weight with all that steel underneath.

The transmission, differential, and engine torque braces make sense. They add very little weight but stiffen up the driveline tremendously. Of course the downside is increased vibration and harshness, but nothing's free.

You get used to the increased NVH

I just ordred a transmission brace from Mike @ A-Spec. I'll have it installed by next week. I already have the ETB, and rear diff braces. I'm expecting the driveline to feel crisp and sharp!

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

^ sleepr1: i disagree.... the whole chassis flexes when i put the car on jackstands to where its hard to open the door.... when i go into my driveway i hear all the plastic and sunroof creek from stress. the car is stiff but not enough in my oppinion. when i put a strut tower bar on the steering felt crisper and more direct, with less slop.

Joeroa: maybe...but i dont see how the new PPF would help THAT much.... it says its only 10% stiffer...... also its $400 and welding a bar to the autoexe brace and painting it is close to free.

jimlab

I think we already covered this in another thread, but if that's the case, your car is either WORN OUT, or you're doing something wrong when you're jacking the car up. That is definitely not normal. We're not talking about 2nd Gen. Camaro doors that sag over time because they weigh 100+ lbs. each...

What mileage does your chassis have on it? Are the door seams even when the car is resting on its tires?

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

its a 94 w/ 80K on the chassis and no major accidents that i know of. everything is nice and aligned when its on flat ground, but if i were to say jack one wheel up it the dor becomes misaligned slightly... and like i said before when i go in the driveway i hear some creeks......... what do you think?? is this not normal?

rxrotary2_7

yeah, there is a problem with your car. good luck trying to use the autoexe braces to fix that too, btw.

jimlab

Not in my experience, but I suppose anything is possible with enough mileage and enough abuse by previous owners.

clayne

Creaking isn't that big a deal. It could be a 1000 things anyways.

Jacking up the car and having doors become hard to close/open is an issue.

Where are jacking it up at?

SleepR1

Nope, I don't have a problem when I jack up one end of the car and open the door. The FD3S is one of the stiffest chassis ever made. Mine has 116,000+ miles with a build date of April 1992. My R1 has a factory front strut brace, and an M2 rear strut brace/harness bar. As mentioned above I have the ETB, rear diff braces installed. The A-Spec transmission cross-brace is coming next week.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

at the specified jacking points. i feel like i get some flex in the frame. you guys are scaring me now.... i want to take the car to a body shop and have them check the frame!!!

teamstealth

thats the only way to really know. Ive never had that problem either, and my car never creaks over bumps/into driveways.

jimlab

Don't tell me you're using the stock scissor jack... PLEASE, tell me you're not using the stock scissor jack on the body rails...

Seriously, you should be using a real floor jack and lifting the car from beneath the engine cradle in front or beneath the rear subframe or differential in the back. Lifting the car evenly from the front or rear (both wheels at once) is the best way to avoid stress on the chassis.

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

my driveway is pretty banked and the street is (i forgot the name for it, but where the street is higher in the middle and lower to the sides so rain will drain properly)... anyway, that makes it so i cant pull in straight w/ out ripping off my bumper completely.... so i have to enter kind of sideways and then straighten it up...

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

hehehe ummmm, yeah i lift it with a floor jack and a piece of wood w/ a slit in it over the rails, and support it w/ jackstands at the recomended jacking points.....this is bad? i assumed it would be good. also, i know i shouldnt but alot of the time i just lift the front of the car to work on it.

if i were to lift it from the subframe the jackstands would most definatly be in my way while im under there... its nice to have it all open so i can just slide under the car. i havent bent a rail yet

POM HB

Yo, RotorMotor.

will you wait on ZeroR (ASpec)? I'll ! But, I think if you don't, he might not make 'em cuz not enough demand.

POM HB

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

I will definatly wait! im not in a particular rush but i do want this bracing at some point...... although im still not sure shat im waiting for?? if its a copy of the autoexe with a bar for bracing the diff. then count me in for sure!!! and if ZeroR makes it i will definatly help promote it if its a good product.

SleepR1

Mikey,

I see you removed your midpipe/cat to get at the two 12-mm bolts on the passenger's side of the body. Makes it easier to remove the stock aluminum cross brace, but it's a PITA to remove the center section of the exhaust system just to get to those two little bolts. Only with the FD Rx7 can a seamingly simple job be this hard to do (sigh).

I was lazy and worked above the midpipe with a 12-mm socket. It probably would have been a quicker job with a ratcheting 12-mm socekt LOL, but of course I only had a 10-mm ratcheting socket (dammit).

BTW, did you reattach the transmission shield? The A-spec transmission brace doesn't allow you to do that unless you reinstall the stock aluminum cross brace in addition to the A-Spec brace. The stock piece has the the two 10-mm bolt holes that will accept the two 10-mm rear bolts of the tranny shield.

I'm not sure the 12-mm bolts are long enough to secure both braces; I don't think there's enough clearance between the midpipe and the passenger-side brace attachment to fit both braces?

The shield protects the transmission case from rock chips and other incidental debris, so I would require my shield be reattached somehow?