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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:45 PM
  #26  
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FWIW, I use the PUR 1 filters the last couple of oil changes too. The nearest MAZDA dealership is across town and I never think of it when I'm in the area. I can get the PUR 1 from the local ADVANCED AUTO. Don't recall the price off-hand, but it's reasonable.

Last edited by Sgtblue; May 21, 2005 at 07:48 PM.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 07:48 PM
  #27  
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The Purolator's a good filter too.

coolvette: I wouldn't get too worried, I didn't mean to scare you... If you are doing mostly highway driving with little boosting, you won't consume that much oil. Oil metering pumps CAN go bad, but when they do, the stock ecu will flash the CEL and will go into "limp home" mode. Don't forget that the dipstick L to F difference is 1.7 quarts, not 1 quart like on most cars. This can make consumption appear less...
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Old May 21, 2005 | 08:16 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Recentlyconverted, you need to smack the parts guy raping you. They go for like $6 or $7 at most. I think when I bought them in bulk from Mazdaformance like a year and a half ago, I got 'em for like $4 - $5 a pop! How much are the Purulators? And yea I know what you're talking about re: the one way valve. Purulator's the only thing I use on the other non-Mazda cars too. But I think they run just around the same cost as the OEM Mazda one? Like $5 or $6?

yeah, i just didn't get it, the irst few times i went to the dealer i got them for like 5 each, then all of a sudden they started charging me 9 bucks each. pretty much said screw that and started looking at other types. i found the pure ones at pep boys for like 4-5 bucks each, so went home and looked them up. they looked like the real deal so i went with them. only problem is a lot of places don't stock them (one of the downfalls when your car's filter is the size of a lawnmower's................)
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Old May 21, 2005 | 08:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Recentlyconverted
only problem is a lot of places don't stock them (one of the downfalls when your car's filter is the size of a lawnmower's................)
Gotta luv 'em

Rynberg, can't the OMP go bad if he (or the previous owner) was premixing?
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Old May 21, 2005 | 08:59 PM
  #30  
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im wondering that also^^^
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Old May 21, 2005 | 09:01 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Rynberg, can't the OMP go bad if he (or the previous owner) was premixing?
Nope. The OMP is electrically controlled by the ecu to inject oil -- varying with rpm and throttle position. It doesn't know or care if there is oil in the gas or not.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 09:17 PM
  #32  
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This was a very helpful thread...
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Old May 21, 2005 | 09:52 PM
  #33  
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It sure is helpful. It's always great to have old info resurface

Originally Posted by rynberg
Nope. The OMP is electrically controlled by the ecu to inject oil -- varying with rpm and throttle position. It doesn't know or care if there is oil in the gas or not.
Hmm...so why do all the premixers say to disconnect your OMP, or that your OMP will go bad, etc? I'd search and find the threads, but stupid search function's still down...
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Old May 21, 2005 | 11:35 PM
  #34  
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I keep hearing about how bad Fram is and how good Purolators are for oil filters.... but in this thread I haven't heard anyone talk about how good Bosch 3300's are. That's what I use... I could have sworn I have heard people say (besides me) that the Bosch ones are pretty decent too. Can anyone second that?
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Old May 22, 2005 | 12:30 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by coolvette
Its been only 2000 miles since my last oil change.I use mobil 1 10-30 and wow it was black!The asa tech was amazed,how dirty is was.the car did not burn any oil ,it was still full before i changed it. I used to change every 3k with my last fd,no more,from now on i will be doing every 2k. You gotta love how high the oil pressure is from fresh oil.
Is it still full because it is now 1 part fuel products to 9 parts oil, Instead of 100% oil?

(disregard the fact that there's some used oil in the system)
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Old May 22, 2005 | 06:13 AM
  #36  
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My last fd would use(burn) about a half qt for every 3000 miles.Is it possible that because i am using mobil 1 the car is using less? I wonder if the low miles combined with the m2 stage 3 ecu could influence oil consumption.The car runs great ,no complaints from me.Btw i just bought toyo ts1 tires and they are amazing! I used to run nitto 555s 17 inch 235s on front anf 255s on rear (last fd).I am running 18x235x40 front and 18x265x35s on rear . there is a hairpin turn next to my house and My 98 c5 running s03s would stick better than my last fd.My new fd feels like is running on rails,better than the c5, and i didnt even get to put a new alignment on it yet.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 09:00 AM
  #37  
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I used to change my oil every 2 weeks for 3 months just to get my damn oil to look clear but it never happened. now i change it every 2500 miles and i use royal purple so now it can never really get clear sionce the royal prurpl is dark color hahahha. oh BTW watch out for those top offs.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 11:17 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
why do all the premixers say to disconnect your OMP, or that your OMP will go bad, etc?
They were probably referring to removing and plugging the feed lines to the OMP; the probable reason is that running the OMP without any oil will eventually damage it.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 11:31 AM
  #39  
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I keep hearing about how bad Fram is and how good Purolators are for oil filters.... but in this thread I haven't heard anyone talk about how good Bosch 3300's are. That's what I use... I could have sworn I have heard people say (besides me) that the Bosch ones are pretty decent too. Can anyone second that?
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Old May 22, 2005 | 02:02 PM
  #40  
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Ok, i have one question...Is there an easy way to remove the oil from the oil coolers,or you have to live with contamination?
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Old May 22, 2005 | 03:44 PM
  #41  
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^ You can change oil 2x, it should get rid of most of the crap oil in your system. This could get to be expensive though.

Change oil once, run the motor, then change it again.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 05:41 PM
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^^^

pretty much what I do at every 3k oil and filter change, along with just dumping and replacing the oil at 1.5K. might be a little obsessive, but hell, would rather be that than sorry.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 06:30 PM
  #43  
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You people are nuts. I track the car regularly. I change the oil and filter every 3k miles. I use an OEM filter and Mobil 1 10w30.

My torn-down engine had absolutely ZERO oil-related problems at 85k. There is zero reason to be changing your oil at less frequent intervals IMO.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 06:48 PM
  #44  
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Not to change the subject, but I've used something called autoRx in the oil of my other car. It acts like an engine cleaner. I got interested in using it while on a consumer reports forum and a modererator supported it's use.


http://www.auto-rx.com/

I hope to try it in my FD this summer and clean out the engine grime.

Mike
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Old May 22, 2005 | 07:59 PM
  #45  
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Mike...hmm...never heard of this stuff before. AutoRX for the RX-7... sounds almost like the engine treatment they were trying to sell me @ Jiffy Lube. I had a hard time saying no too... it's called PolyDyn TX7. TX7 for the RX7...how can you resist?

EFS.O, places like Jiffy Lube as well as your local stealership have machines that essentially flush the engine of all the oil in it, and replace it w/ new oil. Thus is done w/ the car off, and I personally don't know enough about the oil circulation system in the car to tell if such a flush would be removing oil from the oil coolers too, but I would imagine so, as it's a pressurized flush. It does a considerably good job at getting the majority of oil out of the engine and replacing it w/ fresh oil. Treatments usually take about 20 min, and run about $100. I did it to my FD when I first bought her. Oil was pretty nice and clear for quite a while.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:34 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
I'm w/ Rynberg about being less concerned w/ oil changing intervals (although I do change mine every 2500 miles...but that's now what... every 4 - 6 months or so? haha). I simply haven't heard of oil-related failures in rotaries (wrt unchanged oil). Loss of lubrication completely (failed oil pump etc) yes, but not from dirty oil. We have much bigger probs to worry about

I was also curious about your driving habits. You're not losing oil at all? I have to top off my oil every 1000 miles or so, because I beat the hell outta the car. ALL rotaries burn oil, and it's normal for you to have to top off in between oil changes. That's where I'd be focusing my attention.

Rob, stick w/ OEM man. They're damn good filters. I'm surprised ppl still haven't realized this by now, since it's mentioned on practically EVERY oil and oil filter thread

On that note, anyone know a good place to buy the oil filters for cheap in bulk? I used to get mine from mazdaformance.com, but I went to the site yesterday, and apparently they closed shop. Malloy Mazda's only a 30 min drive from me, I may drop by and have a chat w/ Ray, see if he can work up somethin, cuz I buy them by the dozen (not so much for the FD, but for the FB...she's my daily driver).

rx7.com has oem oil filters for the FD 4 for $20.

I would love to get a lot of oem filters for cheap though.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 11:28 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Recentlyconverted
actually, i used to only go for oem oil filters, but after looking at the design specs of the oem filter, i started using the pure one (purolator) filters because if you take a look at the filter design they are pretty similar to the oem filters (one of the major things about the oem filters is their anti-drain system which allows the filter to always be saturated with wet oil and not dry out with the oil on it which to my knowledge can lead to lower filter efficiency because the dry oil starts to block the filter) (keep in mind I don't think the efficiancy is lowered unless the oil gets very dirty).

The pure one filter is one of the few on the market that I know of that has the anti-drainback feature which is important because the filters on the FDs are positioned upside down to the filters on most other cars (which means that the oil can drain out of the filter on most other standard filters). After the mazda dealership started chargin me about $9.00 a filter, I started using the pure one filters and change the oil every 1.5K. STP also makes a filter that has an anti-drainback feature, I know because I bought the car with the STP filter and looked it up online for the design. The STP filter is about the same size as the oem, but the pure one filters are a little bigger. Not tryin to push the pure ones, but just been happy with the results, figure I'd relay the info.
yup, i use purolater filter as well and like the results so far. but recently, my uncle gave me a dan atkins "rotary" oil filter. it's definitely much smaller than OEM or the purolator and i wonder if it's actually any good.

so anyone here have prior experience with the dan atkins "rotary" oil filter?
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Old May 23, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by importrx7
rx7.com has oem oil filters for the FD 4 for $20.

I would love to get a lot of oem filters for cheap though.
Thanks for the info. Like I said, I gotta run by Ray @ Malloy soon anyways, so I'll have a chat w/ him and see if he can buy a whole load of 'em for cheap and pass the savings on to us or somethin (provided we buy in bulk)
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Old May 23, 2005 | 12:07 PM
  #49  
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K&N filters
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Old May 23, 2005 | 12:37 PM
  #50  
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Ramy, i do use the oem filters but the last 2 oil changes, i used the mobil 1 for 2 reasons..

1 being that it was over the winter time so the car would be driven less..and i was right cause over the winter i only drove the car 504 miles in a 4 1/2 month period..

and second reason is that i never got a chance to order the oem filters in multiple quantity so i didnt want to wait for it to come in the mail to have my oil change, i found out that mobil1 was decent so i went with that instead.

im going to buy the oem filters now so the next couple of oil changes this year, im set..
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