After picking this car up last week with a completely roasted clutch, I put a new one (this is harder than it looks) in replaced the plugs/oil and took her out

Runs/drives pretty darn well, however I believe it has a dreaded rats nest problem, seems like frequently there's not much if any secondary turbo assist (falls on it's face 5k+), checked map sensor and sprayed lots of carb cleaner, haven't found anything

Also, sometimes the idle will be rough like there's a vac leak present, I did check the codes and got a "40" (or what i believe was 40), check engine light flashed long 4 times then repeated until i keyed off, 40 is purge valve solenoid... not sure if that would cause any of my issues?

gimme some insight as i haven't been able to make the search function ever give me anything useful (too many unreleated threads)

 

yep, rats nest issue, and 2nd turbo actuator problem possibly. you can do it your self if you got ***** of steel, or send it to KD . Mine did the same thing, just no power change after 4300 rpms.

 

Not sureabout the codes, but for the secondary turbo, how much boost are you reading??

 

hooking up a boost gauge tonight, purge valve doesn't look crucial to turbo operation so i dunno, unless it's leaking vacuum

 

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

I've experienced your problem twice -- once was a broken check valve, the other was a line that came off the turbo control solenoid.

 

seems like i get the 2nd turbo interimttently in 2nd gear and above hmm

 

If you're getting intermittent 2nd turbo, it's probably a sticking/leaking solenoid or a failing check valve. These are always a pain to track down. (A popped off hose or boost leak usually produces consistent symptoms, not intermittent.)

The purge control solenoid is on it's own pneumatic circuit separate from the turbo controls. See this diagram:
http://www.davidgeesaman.com/rx7/93v...lor.edited.jpg

According to the FSM, code 40 means there is an open circuit at the PC solenoid - maybe the plug isn't connected, the solenoid coil failed, or the wiring is broken. See pages F-53 and F-131. Get the FSM from www.iluvmyrx7.com if you don't already have it.

You can fix this yourself, if you have some patience and buy a Mityvac Silverline Deluxe kit. The bad part is probably $50 replacement at most, but finding it is the trick. If you can drop the tranny and replace the clutch, then a rats nest hose job is probably not a big step forward. But it will take time and the parts are tedious to replace.

I suggest buying a new set of check valves (the Dale Clark check valves are cheapest and excellent, but OEM is fine too), since even if they don't solve the problem, they are probably close to failing and are easy to replace. There are a couple of key solenoids that fail most often, so if you don't mind $120 to change them you'll be ahead of the game.

If that fails, you can use the boost gauge or Mityvac gauge and some 1/8" vacuum line, and a plastic tee joint. Tee that line into the system at a key location. Then you just take the car for a test drive and watch the behavior of that line. When you find a line that's not carrying pressure/vacuum when it's supposed to, you can work from there to find the bad component. If you want to try this, I can provide some links to help out.

Have you had the hoses replaced yet?

Dave

 

I have not messed with the vacuum lines just yet, I have an appointment on the 28th for Chris @ Banzai to take a look at it so i'll toy around and try to fix it myself, if I don't resolve it he prolly will... either way I just want him to take a look at the car overall and make sure it's ok

Can the purge valve issue cause any drivability/boost problems?