ludeowner

Hi guys,

I just wanted to let you all know that I just got done installing the M2 DP by myself. It took me about 5 1/2 hours and cost me 5 bloody knuckles and one busted fingernail.

I had to drive my car to the hobby shop so my temps went up to about 190 F. However, I let the car cool in front of the hobby shop for 1.5 hours with the hood open. I had to drive the car into the stall so the engine was run for at least 2-3 minutes before shut down. About 30 minutes later after the car had been jacked up and the intakes were off I was already messing with the precat, and it was pretty warm, but I was able to touch it briefly.

The install was pretty easy actually, I printed out instructions but I didn't even look at them once. I only had a few issues which made the install longer then it should have been.

#1 removal of the heat shield around the stud. I could not figure out a way to get that small plate off. My solution was to pry it back and hammer it downwards. Resulting in a bent up chunk of aluminum (heat shield).

#2 stud removal, I had soaked all the precat studs and cat bolts in PB blaster . I was very paranoid about breaking a stud though, so I soaked the bolts as best as I could. I was looking at how I was supposed to taked out the top stud bolts, so I proceeded to remove my Y-pipe. I couldn't get the bottom y-pipe of so I left it. After the install was done I found that I didn't need to remove the Y-pipe. For stud removal I started on the bottom:

-bottom-rear: entire stud came out
-bottom-front: only the nut came off (crap!)
-hard time getting top front and top rear off. Eventually got the 2 nuts loose. Only the nuts came off

#3 precat removal: FORCED the main cat back enough to get the main cat studs out of the two precat hole. Unclipped the O2 sensor behind the UIM. Took precat off from bottom of car...stock precat slid off the studs and came right out (down and to the rear). Used a 22mm open-box wrench to remove the O2 sensor and it came right off. Applied some anti-seize and reinstalled the O2 sensor using the 22mm wrench to tighten it.

#4 M2 DP install: On the first try I tried to install the DP onto the 3 studs which were still on...DP wouldnt go. Next try, I removed the aluminum tranny cover. Also decided to remover one stud at a time and attemp to slide the DP in place.

Started with removal of the bottom-front stud...tried using a crappy ratchet operated stud remover couldn't get it to fit/work. A helpful tip I picked up from the forum, use two M10x1.5 nuts. Screw one nut on the stud to be removed about halfway and screw the second nut right behind the first nut. Tighten the 2 nuts into each other and then get a open-end box wrench and attempt to take off the stud by losening the first nut. The second nut will keep the first nut in place, so byt loosening the first nut you are effectively loosening the stud. Just make sure the stud is soaked in penatrating oil (PB blaster, CLP "break-free", WD-40), and also make sure the second nut isn't turning when you are loosening the first nut.

Back to installing the DP...removed bottom-front stud, so all that was left were the top-front and top-rear stud. With the tranny cover out of the way and the two bottom studs out of the way I was able to slip the DP onto the two top studs. I decided to leave the two top studs in place and I used two SS bolts on the bottom (M10x1.5x25mm). Used a little WD 40 on the nuts to make them easier to go on and went ahead and tightened all the DP bolts.

I have to use a 17mm open box wrench to tighten my SS bolts since I went with Hex bolts. But I used my 3/8 flexy head ratched to tighten the two top...use a deep socket for the rear bolt and a short socket for the front bolt (IIRC the stock stud bolts are 17mm). Next I put my new gasket on the front of the main cat and I pushed back on the main cat and lined up the main cat studs with the DP flange and slid it back on and tightened it all the way down . Hooked up my O2 sensor and re-installed the tranny cover.

#5 reinstalling BOV and intakes: Only issues I had with these items were the small and large vacuum hoses. I had to use a little WD40 on the nipple and the inside of the hose to make it slide back on easier.

#6 all done: After I was done I started the car up. Everything was ok, except there was smoke from the PB blaster burning off. Shut the car down and installed my M2 ECU and took the car for a 1 hour drive. All I can say is WHOA!!! DPs are kickass mods. I can hear my turbos spooling and my BOV is a lot louder. The car is noticeably faster since I did the DP and M2 ECU at the same time. The M2 stage III ECU bumps my boost from 10-8-10 up to about 12-10-12.

For the nooB mechanics (like me) here is a list of things you will probably want to have to make the install go a lot easier:

-leather work gloves, one suitable for confined spaces
-3/8" flexy head ratchet
-extensions
-PB blaster (one of the better penetrants available, can get it at NAPA)
-extra nuts and bolts
--(two)M10x1.5x60 bolt (if you have to replace main cat studs)
--(two)M10x1.5x50 bolt (in case the 60mm's are to long for the main cat :p)
--(four)M10x1.5x25 bolt (in case you have to/want to replace DP studs)
--(four)M10x1.5x20 bolt (in case the 25mm are too long )
--(six to eight) nuts that will fit on the above bolts (M10x1.5)
--anti-seize (get it at NAPA)

That was my list...I didnt include stuff like a tool kit since everybody that works on their car should have a tool box (I have a Craftsman 100pc set). I ended up using all the ratchets I had (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2) for different parts of the install. So you probably wont be able to do it with just a 3/8 ratchet and metric socket set. I was also lucky enough to be at the hobby shop where I can borrow tools that I dont have.

I ended up buying about 20 M10x1.5 bolts in varying lengths and about 8 nuts just in case. It was only about $10 worth of nuts and bolts so its no biggie. If you want to use that trick I talked about earlier regarding stud removal you may want to buy at least 8 M10x1.5 nuts, that's just in case the nuts are not able to come back off the stud.

So anyways that was my install...I did my intake and BOV removal "blind" but some of the stuff about hte DP portion I read on the forums and how-to sites (scuderiaciriani). I hope that this little walk-through helps some of the nooBs and FNGs that want to try to install their own DP.

...just dont break your DP studs or you are fuxored.

ludeowner

On a side note, when I started the car up after installing the DP this hottie walked out to the area I was working in. I was getting rev-happy and I guess the people inside the hobby shop (I was outside) got an earful from me.

Anyways, the hot blond and me talked about my car and hers. She drives a 99-ish Eclipse GST with a full 3" exhaust, 3" straightpipe and 3" DP (plus a few other things I'm sure). To bad she was there with her BF though.

Street King

So what does the butt dyno say?

ludeowner

The butt dyno says that my car focking fast!!!

I could tell the difference when I had the DP and ECU both at the same time. My next mod will be a vented hood, then I will be getting a fluidyne radiator and tri-point AST along with either a Greddy 2-row or a large SMIC like M2 or Pettit. I also want to look into getting a MP and hallman MBC, but people say that using a MP with the M2 ECU might not be a good idea.

I want to take my car out for a drive, but I am exhausted. I only got a few hours of sleep beofre doing this install, now I am completely beat. I'll just go to bed in a lil bit and dream about that hot chick with the Black GST.

r1owner

What am I missing here....Did you decide to replace the studs? I put my M2 on without taking the studs out. Took me about 2 hours.

ludeowner

I replaced the two bottom studs with SS bolts, but I reused the two top studs. I was still afraid of breaking a stud, so I wanted to remove one stud at a time then test fitting the DP.

tgriesel

Congratulations on your install! Tom

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

where did you buy the M2 ECU?

ludeowner

Thanks Tom, I just woke up and my back is still killing me. But the install of the DP and ECU was definately worth it. I was expecting it to take me 2 days, but it only took about 5 hours.


areXseven,

I got my M2 ECU from Tom aka. tgriesel. Great guy that took the time to show me how to install the ECU. He even showed me his V-mount setup, which looked kick-***. It made me want to get one of my own, but the price was a little to high.

I figure I might just go with the fluidyne in the vertical position and a Greddy 2-row. I will also have a RE Amemiya AD9 hood installed before the FMIC and rad so it will help even more with cooling issues. I am also looking at ways to improve airflow to a upright radiator. I'm thinking about cutting a portion of my bumper so that I can put in one of those NASA ducts.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the downpipe installation. Some of those nuts can be almost welded on. Good job, and nice write up.

Adam

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

ludeowner: What 1/4 mile et do you thing your running now? Sounds like you gained at least 50 HP with the DP & ECU mod. Great job!!

ludeowner

Thanks dude, I had thought about using the 2 nut trick to get the top studs to back out. but I was having trouble getting a good grip on it with my 17mm wrench. That and I was still afraid of breaking them because I couldn't get a good amount of PB blaster on them.

areXseven,

I plan on taking my car to Sac raceway soon to see what my 1/4 times are. But the low end has more pep to it. And the high end doesn't feel like power is tapering off.

I cant wait to see what kind of power increase I'm gonna get with the Greddy intakes/Greddy 2-row/fluidyne/AST. But that is gonna have to wait until after I get the AD 9 CF hood.

areXseven

iTrader: (1)

Post your time/speed when you get back from the track. Good Luck (kick some butt)!

DjRannyKan

sry for the dumb question but how much money did u spend on the ecu and dp??

ludeowner

Bought both of them used:

M2 stage III ECU = $400
M2 3" DP (old style) = $200
Cost to install = $5 and some busted knuckles
The look on my face as I drove the car with new mods = priceless

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Not likely. Probably about 1/2 that.

ludeowner

DOH!!! when I first drove the car I had guesstimated about a 20-30 RWHP increase with the DP and new 12-10-12 boost pattern. I kind of like his 50 RWHP estimate better though.

EDIT: I'm trying to remember how much RWHP Tom (tgreisel) said he had with the M2 ECU and what his mods werer, but I forgot. I think it was 267 RWHP (Mustang dyno) with the complete RE V-mount setup, stock cat and M2 exhaust?

RisNd34th

Lude who tuned your ECU?

ludeowner

Its an M2 ECU...M2 or Mostly Mazda is located in Concord up in Northern CA. You send your ECU to them and they burn (rewrite) it with new fuel, timing (?), and boost maps.

Some people say that M2 ECUs are tuned conservatively richer then say a Pettit ECU. But the reason for that is because CA has 91 octane gas at most pumps, so the M2 ECU is tuned for that.

Pettit can do the same thing to your ECU, however they make ECUs for up to 14 PSI and I believe their fuel maps are a little more aggressive. A few other companies can re-write (burn) you a new ECU, such as KnightSports, and I think RE Amemiya...M2 and Pettit are the ones I see the most on the forums though.

http://www.m2performance.com/
http://www.pettitracing.com/

tgriesel

At a dyno day recently there were several cars that were running an M2 ecu, various intakes, intercoolers of various sizes, DP & CB with the stock cat. All those cars ran between 251-270 rwhp on a Mystang Dyno. They say the Mustang reads between 10-15% less than a Dynojet. A 12% difference would give numbers in the range of 280-300 rwhp on a Dynojet which seems consistent with posted numbers. Tom

ludeowner

WOOHOO!!! that would mean I should be around 250 RWHP (mustang) and 280 RWHP (dynojet). One of these days after the IC is installed I will get my car dynoed to see how much power I actually have.

tgriesel

That would be correct and consistent with M2's advertised numbers. Tom