It's also a nice view of your matching socks

 

i just knew some one was going to mention that
Thanks for the write-up i will be needing it soon

 

How hard would it be to remove the digital odometer, and swap it out?. I replaced the entire cluster/hood(car had hack job indiglo). the odometer now shows 20k less. I don't think this will float during inspection.

 

Does any one have the electrical diagram of the instrument cluster ? The problem for the cluster i am repairing seems to be a tab bit more than just the capacitors.

Thanks

 

my tach will some times just jump out to crazy rpms. im going to take a look when i get the chance. nice write-up!

 

cool

 

You Just Saved Me $300!!! Thanks Alot

 

I made a list of the caps, quantity and Digikey part number for all of the caps on that board (from my 93). I was about to order these, but I figured out that the ground was the problem (X-14 connector in passenger footwell). I noticed that messing with the ground made the tach jump around too, so those of you who have jumpy tachs the ground might be your problem and not the caps.

1000 micro farad 6.3 volt 105 degree C 1 P10199-ND
10 micro farad 50 volt 105 degree C 2 P11250-ND
47 micro f*** 25V* 105 degree C 1 P10267-ND
1uf (micro f) * 50v* 105 degree C 3 P10312-ND


- Chris

 

Do you know quantities needed of each?

My tach is fine, but the speedo reads anywhere from 0-15 MPH fast.

 

mine too my mpg mostly

 

You checked all around this area?

 

Yea , sorry the quantities are in there, they just formatted weird after copying from excel. They are listed right after the "C" and before the part number.

Heres a clearer version

1x 1000 micro farad 6.3 volt 105 degree C 1 P10199-ND
2x 10 micro farad 50 volt 105 degree C 2 P11250-ND
1x 47 micro f*** 25V* 105 degree C 1 P10267-ND
3x 1uf (micro f) * 50v* 105 degree C 3 P10312-ND

 

Thanks for reformatting! I just couldn't make out that those were quantities.

 

hi i have a prob with my meter too. i changed the required stuff and it did work for one day then it decided to stop working again. did i do something wrong? i am using 300km meter. thanks guys

 

does mazda even sell those parts over the counter? anyway, they are different from the radio shack parts, here is what I picked up, does it look alright?

these should all be electorlytic radial (PCM) capacitors right?

not the axial in-line capacitors? radio shack had both, but since I havent taken my dash apart yet, i figured they are all the PCM type.

15 and 30 watt switchable new solder iron. $10.99
desoldering braid $3.99
Silver solder #3.99

1000uF electrolytic capacitor 35WVDC 85 C #272-1032 $1.59
47uf electrolytic capacitor 35WVDC 85 C #272-1027 $1.19
10uf electrolytic capacitor 35WVDC 85 C #272-1025 $.99 (2 needed)
1uf tantalum capacitor 35WVDC 85 C #272-1025 $1.59 (3 needed)

total price $30.85 (tax dependant)

doesn't matter if its tantalum, right? but the wattage looks smaller then recommended. do these parts look ok?

the original 1000 cap said 6.3v? I didnt find this in the store, should I special order it?

 

Hey guys, i have a question about this, after changing the gauge faces to a custom design and removing the needles and such my speedo is no longer working correctly, the issue its having is the speedo is taking a long time to go to the proper speed so when i accelerate to 0-60mph and cruise, the speedo slowly climbs up to that speed about but not accurately @ 60 but 5-7miles off, and when i stop 60-0 or what ever, once the car is stopped, i see the needle slowly coming back down to 0....

Any ideas would be appreciated on how to fix this or what you think needs replacement!!!

Thanks...

 

I posted Digikey part numbers. The entire order is probably $5 total from them, plus you can get exactly what you want.

I have no idea on the tantalum.

 

Assuming the speedometer needle is on a wound coil-spring, it sounds like you lost the "pre-load" on the speedometer needle.

If you didn't mark it before disassembly, it will be a trial process to find the proper mounting of the needle.

Good luck.

:-) neil

 

you can use any equal or higher voltage rating as long as it fits, since the physical size increases with the voltage rating. but i would use the same construction, ie electrolytic or ceramic and not switch to tantalum

Also if you want them to outlast the original caps go for the higher temp rated ones like 105C instead of 85C since electrolytics are very sensitive to temperature.

 

I ordered these caps from DigiKey 2 weeks ago.

Total cost, including shipping, was about $10.

 

I successfully transplanted odometers tonight following Matt's directions. Big thanks for the help!!!

 

need small help i've bought plazma clocks for my rex, im haveing proble powering them were is the power on the clocks

 

Hi guys, I had replaced these two capicitors earlier, to no avail. When i took it back apart i realized that there were some black marks under some of the other components (circled in blue) are these replaceable? and what exactly are they? Diodes? transistors? I'm not very informed on electrical parts and what not. I figured i would give it a shot, so i would have a working odomter again.

Thanks

Harrison

 

ok, so the parts i circled are diodes. problem is that by just looking at them i have no idea how big they are. two of them say "A" and the other one says "C". anyone know the size and voltage i need?

 

They loook fine to me, test them using multimeter.