Just finished engine install now car wont run? Please Help`
11-04-06, 04:46 PM
#1
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Just finished engine install now car wont run? Please Help`
Alright I just finished my engine install along with several other mods at the same time. Well when I start the car it turns over and tries to fire and the first time it actually did and ran really rough. Now it just sputters and wont fire up. Just sounds like its missfireing. I changed the injectors to 1300cc and have blocked off all emissions and am still using a PFC as I was before the engine swap. I am at a loss of what could be the problem. Maybe a bad MAP sensor or other sensor could cause this? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Thanx
Jeremy
Thanx
Jeremy
11-04-06, 05:09 PM
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My suggestion would be to start with the basics. Follow the un-flooding procedure first (take the spark plugs out, unplug the fuel pump relay, have a fire extinguisher handy, etc.)
After you've gone through the procedure, and assuming there is no gas or fumes, check for spark. If you've got good spark then try to restart the car.
If still no success or limited success then look very hard for a vacuum leak. Since it ran badly once, it sounds like a vacuum leak but it may also be a stuck injector(s) as this seems to be not unheard of. You can find threads on checking, and "tapping" injectors to get them to work (I've not had to do this yet).
Of course it can be any one of what seems to be 10,000 things. But start with the simple, common checks first. Check electrical connections too, even unusual ones such as making sure no wires came out of the plugs on the pfc.
After you've gone through the procedure, and assuming there is no gas or fumes, check for spark. If you've got good spark then try to restart the car.
If still no success or limited success then look very hard for a vacuum leak. Since it ran badly once, it sounds like a vacuum leak but it may also be a stuck injector(s) as this seems to be not unheard of. You can find threads on checking, and "tapping" injectors to get them to work (I've not had to do this yet).
Of course it can be any one of what seems to be 10,000 things. But start with the simple, common checks first. Check electrical connections too, even unusual ones such as making sure no wires came out of the plugs on the pfc.
11-06-06, 11:13 AM
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Anymore suggestions? Also can i hook up a petit ecu with 1300cc injectors just to test if the PFC is part of the problem? Just looking for a way to rule things out. I dont really know where to start to be honest.
11-06-06, 11:21 AM
#6
I'm going through the same teething problems: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/new-reman-trouble-starting-need-help-form-vets-593805/
I had to do the flood-recovery just to get it to start but it's still not running right.
I had to do the flood-recovery just to get it to start but it's still not running right.
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11-06-06, 11:32 AM
#8
Just curious.. How long was your 1300s been sitting around? I've heard they sometimes get stuck.
Check all the wiring and make sure they are all plugged in properly. Is your map base map??
One of the locals down here had bad map sensor and we had very similar problem. When we got a new one, cranked perfectly. Its easy to check using PFC commander and the voltage reading.
Check all the wiring and make sure they are all plugged in properly. Is your map base map??
One of the locals down here had bad map sensor and we had very similar problem. When we got a new one, cranked perfectly. Its easy to check using PFC commander and the voltage reading.
11-06-06, 11:49 AM
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Yeah I was kinda hoping and thinking it could be the map sensor since that is such an easy fix. What kind of voltage should I see if its good. I was looking at that saturday but not really sure what im looking for as far as voltage is concerned. Im not sure how long the injectors sat unused before I got them but id say they have sat no less than 8 months unused. I hope its not an injector I really dont want to pull all that crap off again.
Yeah im using the stock base mod map for now until I get it running and tuned.
L8r
Jeremy
Yeah im using the stock base mod map for now until I get it running and tuned.
L8r
Jeremy
Last edited by PureMdMa; 11-06-06 at 11:56 AM.
11-06-06, 11:51 AM
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Oh and Tim yeah there are about 4 sensor on with the key at on. Im not sure which ones are suppose to be on though. I know a few of them but not many. I need to see which ones are on and repost. Ill do that tonight.
11-06-06, 12:48 PM
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go in to PFC ect (i think) at the sensor screen. the ones that are highlighted in black are a warning. you need to figure out why they are not working (not connected, bad, etc). You may have to trace or redo the main wire harness. Use a flashlight, feel with your hands, is anything unpluged? if so verify it's not needed with manual. then tape over it so next time you dont have to verify again. Check map sensors connector and vacuum line. check ACV. Make shure fpr isn't leaking and fuel lines anrent mixed up.
once that is done, you need to change the % for the 1300 injectors to 65% (don't worry about lag time, that will be done at tune). if primarys are 550 then leave those settings alone. I had new 1300's sitting for about a year with "no" problems.
Buy a few sets of "copper" spark pulgs 7's & 9's. Do not use platinum nor cold plugs. You will need the easier starting coppers to turn the engine over several times and burn off assembly lube. They may get flooded real bad and it's easier to swap a dry set then clean them off and dry them (compressor may work but adds time).
if that doesn't solve the problems, list other mods done.
once that is done, you need to change the % for the 1300 injectors to 65% (don't worry about lag time, that will be done at tune). if primarys are 550 then leave those settings alone. I had new 1300's sitting for about a year with "no" problems.
Buy a few sets of "copper" spark pulgs 7's & 9's. Do not use platinum nor cold plugs. You will need the easier starting coppers to turn the engine over several times and burn off assembly lube. They may get flooded real bad and it's easier to swap a dry set then clean them off and dry them (compressor may work but adds time).
if that doesn't solve the problems, list other mods done.
11-06-06, 01:05 PM
#14
Originally Posted by GoRacer
Buy a few sets of "copper" spark pulgs 7's & 9's. Do not use platinum nor cold plugs. You will need the easier starting coppers to turn the engine over several times and burn off assembly lube.
The Engine have been cranked and ran for about 1-2 hours after rebuilt. Assembly lube have been burnt off.
11-06-06, 01:37 PM
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verify ACV is pluged in
verify TPS is ok
verify map sensor vacuum lines arent cracked or split
verify spark plug wires arent mixed up and pluged in wrong
verify sensor warning (highlited sensor) on pfc commander (highlight is warning)
I was told my fuel problem was the fpd with my aftermarket fpr but as it turned out my mechanic hooked up the fuel lines wrong to the fpr. I don't see a problem running the Pettit ecu at idle but you can call them to verify, they are very friendly and helpful.
verify TPS is ok
verify map sensor vacuum lines arent cracked or split
verify spark plug wires arent mixed up and pluged in wrong
verify sensor warning (highlited sensor) on pfc commander (highlight is warning)
I was told my fuel problem was the fpd with my aftermarket fpr but as it turned out my mechanic hooked up the fuel lines wrong to the fpr. I don't see a problem running the Pettit ecu at idle but you can call them to verify, they are very friendly and helpful.
Last edited by GoRacer; 11-06-06 at 01:44 PM.
11-06-06, 03:33 PM
#16
my first thought was a spark problem, maybe you're not getting any or you mixed up the plug wires. if it ran once but rough, and now it wont start it sounds like you flooded it. follow the un-flooding procedure, take out the plugs and make sure they're clean, make sure the connections are good and the wires are in the correct order. after you know that is all correct THEN go and check the map sensor, tps, pfc settings, etc... Spark is one of the easiest things to test, no sense in checking all this other stuff if you're not 100% sure about your spark being correct
11-06-06, 04:52 PM
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Alright well i have alot to start with here, ill just have to start one by one checking all the things that have been discussed. If I still have no different symptoms after Ill post back with results. Thanx for all the help guys, I just want my car to be back on the road again. Its been too long.
L8r
Jeremy
L8r
Jeremy
11-16-06, 12:19 PM
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Alright well sorry to say I havent looked at the car again in the last 2 weeks, been pretty busy. Well im gonna look at it this weekend for sure and post back findings now.
L8r
Jeremy
L8r
Jeremy
11-18-06, 03:58 PM
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Well I changed the map sensor today and same results so that isnt the problem. I got it to fire and run both times I tried and it will run without quiting its just real rough. Here is the pic I took of the PFC readout with key in on position. Remember that emissions sensors are gone if that makes a difference.
11-24-06, 11:22 AM
#23
if it runs but its really rough you might want to look for an intake air leak. also as stated before check and see if your leading, trailing, front rotor and rear rotors wires are in there correct places. also you dont have to change anything on your pfc for 1300cc injectors yet
as the are not being used on startup.
-J-
as the are not being used on startup.
-J-
11-24-06, 05:09 PM
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Well, I tried some more things today and its runs everytime I turn it over. I checked the coils and all 4 wires have spark. The MAP sensor is good, and I swaped out the PFC for a Petit ECU and the same result. I also tried it without the HIKS Twinpower and same results. So im thinking now its either a bad injector and a vacuum leak somewhere. Its puffing out white smoke when running and smells rich as hell.
l8r
Jeremy
l8r
Jeremy
