Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Well, I've been tryin for 5 days and need input from the forum vets:

Reman Engine
Map Sensor IS hooked up
Plenty of front and rear spark
40-44psi of fuel pressure at start up
No "check engine" codes
The engine starts iin "safe/limp mode"

I can only start the damn car by doing the flooded-engine recovery procedure - and when it does start, only the front rotor chamber is firing. Classic safe/limp home mode situation.

I've tried resetting the ECU and there are NO error codes showing up on the dash. But the 4w ABS light is on - however the brake fluid reservoir is at max level.

Thanks

dubulup

there isn't anything classic about...running on one rotor; that is not limp mode.

some codes don't illuminate the CEL, pull the codes and check back with us.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

compression check? the used rotor housing mazda remans have a hard time starting hot, during break in.

dubulup

mazda reman's use new housings

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Well, absolutely NO codes. I grounded the "ten" in the diagnostics terminal and no codes were flashing. I even went so far as to disconnect the piggyback HKS FCON. I've reset the ECU several times but still having issues.

I always thought that the car running as if the MAP sensor was disconnected was "safe mode," which is the symptoms the car is exhibiting. The car is only running with the front chamber firing. I looked at the plugs (brand new) and it's obvious the front chambers are undergoing combustion but the rear leading plugs are still shiny and dry. I confirmed that the plugs and wires are fine.

So - no codes, no fuel in the rear chamber (injectors were cleaned a couple months ago), electrical connections are good as far as I can tell.

mad_7tist

a heavy misfire, front plugs seem ok not fuel soaked or anything? with clean dry plugs in the rear rotor huh? sounds like the rear injector may not be opening, has been know to happen to "serviced" injectors

the abs light has nothing to do with the fluid level, that is the red brake light

Trexthe3rd

Have you checked for spark? I know you said you visually inspected the plugs and the wires but did you check for actual spark. Have you done anything to the fuel delivery system when you removed and replaced the engine?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I reconfirmed - the front plugs are dry and show evidence of combustion (showing some discoloration) but the rear plugs are dry and still shiny.

The serviced injectors worked fine after I reinstalled them. I can't help to think that the 4W ABS light has something to do with this...

Ottoman

have u tried push starting it?

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I confirmed spark by ground the plugs to the suspension towers. Front and rear plugs fire strong.

As for the fuel delivery, I put a new fuel pressure gauge on it. I'm confident I didn't interchange the supply and return lines.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure how that would help

The car starts but the rear chamber isn't firing.

tsmysak1

Couple of things...

Make sure that you have the cranks sensors plugged in correctly.

Also make sure you haven't swapped the plug wires on the center coil.

That will give you fire, but it won't be correct.

I wouldn't expect any trouble at all starting if the hook up is correct....

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

I checked the leading plugs wire connection - top going to the front, bottom to the rear. I'll double check the CAS position when this evening after work.

If that's all set, I guess I'm going to have to rip off the UIM and start the nasty troubleshooting. Since I'm not getting any codes, I'm assuming all my connections are made but may have a swapped connector somewhere. Second possibility is that my rear primary injector isn't working either. I'm going to do the 9v test and put the rear primary into the front primary location.

dubulup

My money is on...your rear primary injector. IF you sent it to RC Engineering and it sat for a couple months, most likely its stuck. Make two test leads and hit your injectors with 12V...not clicky = no fuel

RC fails to tell you if you don't fire the injectors within ~2 weeks...the solution they use to clean/calibrate/flow test can cause sticking.

they will fix it for free, but now you have to pull the UIM off and get the injector out.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

my money is also on the rear primary injector, either the injector itself is sticking or the wiring has cracked or the pin pushed back in the connector not giving a signal to the injector to fire.

i have seen it numerous times when only one rotor is firing, sometimes it isn't so obvious when looking for problems.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

Well, ripped the UIM off tonight and scrounged up a 9v battery and some leads - yep, it's the rear primary injector. The front primary clicks quite nicely, as do the secondaries, but the *&#($&@#!_ rear primary is silent. I'm hoping it just a quick shot with IPA and it's good as new.

Getting that damn injector out is NOT going to be fun

mad_7tist

loosen the solenoid rack mount bolts get a swivle 10mm socket from the store and pull the acv. easy acces after that

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

It could still be your wiring perhaps bad connection to the injector itself.

Svelte_7

iTrader: (4)

It was the rear primary injector. It got stuck after sitting around for a few months in my garage. I little squirt with rubbing alcohol fixed it. The car runs great now.