grinn253

Hey all, I haven't posted much of my activities but here is the general idea:

Mods:
Pineapple "emissions" port
PFC/commander
1300 Secondaries
M2 DP, Apexi N1 dual exhaust, N-Tech High Flow Cat
Greddy 2 row FMIC
Greddy AirInx air filters
Rotary Extreme Power Pulley
Mazdaspeed lightweight chromoly flywheel
Pineapple upgraded clutch

Corksport install and Groundzero tuning with Ralph

stock items:
turbos @ 142,000, blow off valves.

Well I was hoping to make at least 300 rwhp with the above mods @ 12psi but only am getting 263 on a mustang dyno. Is this about right? We tried bumping the boost to 14 psi, but did not make much of a difference...actually:
the boost in the pfc is set for 1.00 but only giving 12 psi on the 2ndary...boost pattern is like 10-8-12.

Perhaps the turbos are 'going?' is there anything plausible to do before going single?

Thanks!
Edgardo

Scrapiron7

That seems considerably low.

CYM TKT

iTrader: (4)

yeah thats low for sure. I made about that much with just intake, CB, and pulleys.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Something ain't right... but if your turbos were "going" I'd think they'd not make the boost you want.

I've heard mustang dynos are lower than others, but 40 hp is alot.

rynberg

You guys are not reading the MUSTANG DYNO part of his post....263 on a Mustang dyno = ~290-300 hp on a dynojet.

Still, that is a bit low, considering the streetport. You are obviously not tuned very well above 12 psi, or you would be making much more power. The duty cycles on the PFC boost settings need to be adjusted for you to hit your target boost.

Your numbers could very well be just due to conservative tuning with the PFC. If it's a small streetport, your numbers aren't that bad, although I would expect to hit 300+ rwhp on the Mustang Dyno with a streetport at an actual 14 psi.

SPOautos

From what I hear Mustang dyno's read AROUND 15% lower than a Dynojet so your numbers would come out to around 310rwhp. @ 12psi 310 is about right, especially since you have a hf cat instead of a mp

As for your boost I'd check for some small boost leaks, especially around the IC inlet/outlet.

STEPHEN

RollnDrty

I would still consider those to be low numbers... I pulled 315 at the wheels on 12psi, and I dont have the HF cat or I/C, all while on a mustang dyno also.

SPOautos

The IC really doesnt help that much on a dyno so your numbers and his numbers being close should mean he's about right.

You cant compare dyno charts that close, they are never going to be so exact that you can compare without factoring in some margin for different dynos, conditions, ect ect ect. Especially since we are just marking up his numbers with a magic rule of thumb.

I think his numbers are probably about right.

Hell, I've got vast differences in hp readings with the same exact car just going from one dyno the the other....and they were all the same make and model dyno's lol. There is a not so well known secret about dyno's (especially dynojets), its called wheel losses correction factors.

STEPHEN

T88NosRx7

iTrader: (1)

i would agree, with what you have you should be in the 320+ range.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

Our Mustang Dyno reads about 18% lower than a dynojet, but we have calibrated ours to read dynojet numbers.

Jason

vrooom305

yeah 263 is really low....try putting a 350 V8in there, you'll make 300HP in no time

BuMP

LT1-7

Is yours the black Fd I saw there at GroundZero? I saw a set of twin turbos sitting there which is something I don't see much there (FD parts). Your #'s seem about right. My brother just got his single dynoed and it didn't get what most people are getting on the dynojet. Ralph is a damn good tuner also so it can't be the maps.

cruiser

My advice : don't compare dyno numbers. They can be deceiving.

grinn253

LT1-7 - Yeah that must have been me in the black FD, you were around?

Hmm my injector duty cycles are around 71% for both primary & 2ndary.

Forgot to mention that I also have supra fuel pump and efini y-pipe (mazdaspeed radiator if this makes a difference).

thanks for everyone's input, i think i'm going to dyno the car 'just for fun' on a non-mustang dyno to see what it gets there. Though i heard mustang dyno's are actually more accurate?

Laters!
Edgardo

LT1-7

My brother has his FD on the dyno on tuesday. Your FD the one with the RB catback? Would you be interested in a trade plus cash for an HKS?

911GT2

310-320 sounds right for all that. If your turbos are going it wouldn't really make a difference, they're still achieving 12psi all the way to redline, so they're working well enough. Nice numbers though!

Coulthard Fan

I'm not questioning what Jason and others are saying here about the difference between these 2 types of dyno's... I just don't understand it. Can someone explain or point to some articles or something on this?

Jason

iTrader: (5)

There is a good article at www.mustangdyne.com on the differences between the two dynos.

The main difference between the two is the mustang puts a load on the car when dynoing. It trys to simulate driving on the street where as on a dynojet there is very little load. For example, if a car gets 400HP on a dynojet and 328HP on a Mustang dyno. The 328HP is going to be closer to what the car is actually making on the street.

We have ours calibrated to Dynojet numbers because thats what everyone wants to see, even though their car is not making close to those HP figures on the street.


Jason

LT1-7

Jason is right. And putting load on a dyno is a big advantage the mustang dyno has over the dynojet. You can stimulate driving as if you were on an actual street. Not only that but you can stimulate it to a steep hill. Basiclly makes it easier to change maps through all rpm range at all throttle positions to all boost pressures. Makes you not find out you have a hole in your maps at part throttle

Fd3BOOST

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like someone needs to do some tunning.

Kento

In basic terms, the Dynojet dyno is what is called an "inertia" dyno. The tires of the car spin a weighted drum, and the rate at which the drum spins is measured to calculate a hp rating. The Mustang dyno is "eddy current" dyno, which uses an electrical current to vary the resistance of the drum (and this resistance can be precisely altered and measured), which more closely replicates "real world" conditions. You can actually do real a/f tuning on an eddy current dyno, because you can more closely replicate the loads the engine will encounter; trying to do it on an inertia dyno is much more imprecise, because as the drum accelerates, the load varies.

It's like measuring the horsepower of (or trying to tune) your car on a downhill, or on a flat surface. There's a big difference in what loads the engine sees, and thus, how it will react. Engines run differently under load.

grinn253

So uh concensous is my #s are alright? Due to the fact that the #s are coming from a Mustang dyno.

Are there anymore suggestions for increase HP before going single? (though i don't really want to go single).

Thanks,
Edgardo

fastrx7man

iTrader: (63)

I dynoed my car on a mustang dyno last Wednesday and made 335rwhp. That was at 14 to 15 psi.