Just blew my 2nd. engine
10-13-06, 02:28 PM
#1
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Just blew my 2nd. engine
My second engine in a 1993 rx7 blew. Now I have to make my mind up if i want to get it replaced or get rid of it. I had it since it was new. The Mazda once again wants around 5,000 dollars for a remanufactured one installed. Can anyone give me some advice? I have recently had it painted. The car has 92,000 original miles the first engine blew at 62,000 and the remanufactured engine has only 30,000 miles on it.
10-13-06, 02:46 PM
#3
Originally Posted by mdpalmer
What happened to the motor? Be specific please 
My friend spotted a black FD in your area a couple weeks ago, was that you? He came back the next day with his MB PEP but couldn't find the FD again..
I'd replace the motor, if it were me.
10-13-06, 02:50 PM
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Sorry to hear about your engine.
Do you know what caused the failure? Was it water seal or an apex seal? If apex seal, it probably damaged your turbo, as well, that should add to your cost estimate.
What blew your first engine? Unless it was water seals going bad, if your first engine blew because of an other reason (lean condition, boost spikes, overboost etc...), was that reason rectified or fixed to prevent a second failure?
You ask for advice but, we need to know a lot more details on the nature of the failure in order to make and educated guess or contribution. Mazda rotary turbo engines are not the most robust engines in the world and, as can be seen on these pages, most people are past their first engines with many past their second.
Yes, it will cost some thousands for a new engine but, if you like the car and the driving experience, as many of us do, than it may worth it for you to keep it. After all consider what it would cost to replace that driving experience if you had to purchase a different car? If you are on a shoestring budget or, can live without a great looking/handling/performing car than, by all means get out of it because these things, and others, do tend to happen on a car that is 13-14 years old.
Personally, I drive the car a couple of thousands of miles a year so, if my engine lasts 30K miles, or 15 years, I'll be very happy!
Wish you the best decision making,
Albert
Do you know what caused the failure? Was it water seal or an apex seal? If apex seal, it probably damaged your turbo, as well, that should add to your cost estimate.
What blew your first engine? Unless it was water seals going bad, if your first engine blew because of an other reason (lean condition, boost spikes, overboost etc...), was that reason rectified or fixed to prevent a second failure?
You ask for advice but, we need to know a lot more details on the nature of the failure in order to make and educated guess or contribution. Mazda rotary turbo engines are not the most robust engines in the world and, as can be seen on these pages, most people are past their first engines with many past their second.
Yes, it will cost some thousands for a new engine but, if you like the car and the driving experience, as many of us do, than it may worth it for you to keep it. After all consider what it would cost to replace that driving experience if you had to purchase a different car? If you are on a shoestring budget or, can live without a great looking/handling/performing car than, by all means get out of it because these things, and others, do tend to happen on a car that is 13-14 years old.
Personally, I drive the car a couple of thousands of miles a year so, if my engine lasts 30K miles, or 15 years, I'll be very happy!
Wish you the best decision making,
Albert
Last edited by axr6; 10-13-06 at 02:53 PM.
10-13-06, 02:50 PM
#5
Blew what? Blew how?
Mazda doesn't necessarily know anything about how to troubleshoot and fix these cars. This place is near you and is very knowledgable http://kdrotary.com/
Also try the regional forums for places that might be closer to you.
Mazda doesn't necessarily know anything about how to troubleshoot and fix these cars. This place is near you and is very knowledgable http://kdrotary.com/
Also try the regional forums for places that might be closer to you.
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10-13-06, 04:22 PM
#9
While there are cheaper ways to get your engine done than $5k for a simple reman, consider that at 92k you have a pretty good number of parts that would be really wise to change or service now too. So while a rotary shop (KD for one) will give you a much better value, your bill may be larger if you opt to go about this more intelligently. If that price is a dealer price I'm curious which dealer it is.
Those extra parts worth changing being:
- injectors cleaning
- new engine wiring harness
- new OMP lines
- new vacuum lines, replace bad solenoids
- new engine coolant hoses
- new FPD
- turbos
It's very important to figure out why the engine blew again. 30k isn't too good for a stock engines on well-cared-for cars often go longer. Unfortunately reman motors sometimes have out-of-spec components in them, so while they are a great value, it can be very worthwhile to have it disassembled and checked before going in. A good rotary shop will help a lot for this too.
Dave
Those extra parts worth changing being:
- injectors cleaning
- new engine wiring harness
- new OMP lines
- new vacuum lines, replace bad solenoids
- new engine coolant hoses
- new FPD
- turbos
It's very important to figure out why the engine blew again. 30k isn't too good for a stock engines on well-cared-for cars often go longer. Unfortunately reman motors sometimes have out-of-spec components in them, so while they are a great value, it can be very worthwhile to have it disassembled and checked before going in. A good rotary shop will help a lot for this too.
Dave
10-13-06, 05:35 PM
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During my lifetime I have owned all three of mazda rx7's and have gotten well over 100,000 miles on them. The last one was a turbo also, and I did have to rebuilt the turbo at around 60,000 miles. I did it myself by obtaining a kit from a company in California. I bought this FD in 1992 and had the engine replaced at 62.000 miles by a mazda dealer in Mechanicsburg, PA. About a year later it started to sprout oil from the front of the engine, so my son and I replaced a gasket and seals from the front of the engine where the crank shaft pully is. I haven't had any trouble since. Just recently I had it painted and I installed a boost gage and remote door lock on it. I sure have a warm spot for this rotary engine car and I hate to give it up, however I can't stand having it be such a burden on my budget. The dealer advised me that it had lost its compression and will have to be replaced with a short block. They gave me a price of $5100.00 with out knowing what else they may fine that would increase the price. I am torn between getting it fixed or just gettin rid of it. I need others advice, eventhough it is a tough decision when all the facts aren't there. I have been driving wankel engines since 1978 and have always liked the design of the rx7's. This last one cost me around 37,000.00 13 years ago and was considered an expensive car. So at this time I don't know the condition of the injectors and turbo.
10-13-06, 05:48 PM
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You do not mention any mods or upgrades. If you are still 100% stock, no wonder you are blowing engines. If you only do the safety mods/upgrades (cooling, IC, intake, and exhaust) your car will be totally reliable at 7PSI boost. I have had my FD since 92 and have been running over 300whp since 1995, over 340whp since 1999, and over 380whp since 2005, and have not blown an engine. My only failure was on my original engine when an e-shaft oil jet came out due to Mazda's poor engine building. That happen in 1996 and caused oil pressure to drop to 60psi max!
10-13-06, 05:57 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Jimbo Sage
During my lifetime I have owned all three of mazda rx7's and have gotten well over 100,000 miles on them. The last one was a turbo also, and I did have to rebuilt the turbo at around 60,000 miles. I did it myself by obtaining a kit from a company in California. I bought this FD in 1992 and had the engine replaced at 62.000 miles by a mazda dealer in Mechanicsburg, PA. About a year later it started to sprout oil from the front of the engine, so my son and I replaced a gasket and seals from the front of the engine where the crank shaft pully is. I haven't had any trouble since. Just recently I had it painted and I installed a boost gage and remote door lock on it. I sure have a warm spot for this rotary engine car and I hate to give it up, however I can't stand having it be such a burden on my budget. The dealer advised me that it had lost its compression and will have to be replaced with a short block. They gave me a price of $5100.00 with out knowing what else they may fine that would increase the price. I am torn between getting it fixed or just gettin rid of it. I need others advice, eventhough it is a tough decision when all the facts aren't there. I have been driving wankel engines since 1978 and have always liked the design of the rx7's. This last one cost me around 37,000.00 13 years ago and was considered an expensive car. So at this time I don't know the condition of the injectors and turbo.
2: your motor blew because you joined the rx7club...
10-13-06, 06:12 PM
#15
Jimbo Sage,
Right now, a reman engine is going for about $2600. R&R charges typically range from $1000-1500. So, you are at least looking at about $4000 having someone else do the work for you and this is without doing other maintenance while the engine is out (i.e. cleaning injectors, new fuel lines, new t-stat, new coolant lines, new vacuum lines, etc).
After that, you will be looking a little over $5k. The only way to really make it any cheaper is to find some local friends to help with the R&R and only pay money for parts.
Right now, a reman engine is going for about $2600. R&R charges typically range from $1000-1500. So, you are at least looking at about $4000 having someone else do the work for you and this is without doing other maintenance while the engine is out (i.e. cleaning injectors, new fuel lines, new t-stat, new coolant lines, new vacuum lines, etc).
After that, you will be looking a little over $5k. The only way to really make it any cheaper is to find some local friends to help with the R&R and only pay money for parts.
10-13-06, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cewrx7r1
If you are still 100% stock, no wonder you are blowing engines.
contrary to mr. "keep it stock till I drop" jconn, knowledgeable FD owners know these cars simply are not reliable stock....they must be Improved or they won't stay running (see the relibility mods section)
best bang for the buck performance and reliablity mods you can make are: full exhaust with restrictor to prevent boost creep, Pettit ECU, upgraded stock mount IC, upgraded radiator, good boost controller, AST delete, FPD delete, and I'm sure there are a few others....my car ran like a champ with those mods, unfortunately I ran a midpipe without a restrictor and boost creep killed two motors, including the (first) very strong stock engine...the reman popped relatively easily
10-13-06, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
what he said
contrary to mr. "keep it stock till I drop" jconn, knowledgeable FD owners know these cars simply are not reliable stock....they must be Improved or they won't stay running (see the relibility mods section)
best bang for the buck performance and reliablity mods you can make are: full exhaust with restrictor to prevent boost creep, Pettit ECU, upgraded stock mount IC, upgraded radiator, good boost controller, AST delete, FPD delete, and I'm sure there are a few others....my car ran like a champ with those mods, unfortunately I ran a midpipe without a restrictor and boost creep killed two motors, including the (first) very strong stock engine...the reman popped relatively easily
contrary to mr. "keep it stock till I drop" jconn, knowledgeable FD owners know these cars simply are not reliable stock....they must be Improved or they won't stay running (see the relibility mods section)
best bang for the buck performance and reliablity mods you can make are: full exhaust with restrictor to prevent boost creep, Pettit ECU, upgraded stock mount IC, upgraded radiator, good boost controller, AST delete, FPD delete, and I'm sure there are a few others....my car ran like a champ with those mods, unfortunately I ran a midpipe without a restrictor and boost creep killed two motors, including the (first) very strong stock engine...the reman popped relatively easily
10-13-06, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 876portturbo
30,000 thats 25,000 more than my stock setup FC Mazda reman lasted.
With weak oil pumps and side housings way out of spec they blow fo sho
With weak oil pumps and side housings way out of spec they blow fo sho
WOW thats funny the same thing happened to me 88 T2 stock setup 6,500
wait thats not so funny now that I think about it.
10-13-06, 10:08 PM
#22
While I can't change the fact that your engine is shot (again), I can help by saying that you can do a lot better on pricing than Freysinger. In fact, they charge *more* than retail for parts.
No doubt, 3rd gens are harder on engines than most any other car. If you miss an important maintenance item you can damage some expensive stuff. However, a proper rebuild and some maintenance items should get you another solid 60k or more. If you sell it, the price will end up discounted by at least the same amount. These cars are minor money holes. If you treat it well, I consider it to be a minor parasite rather than a full blown finance wrecker.
If you choose to rebuild, let me know. I can lend my engine rebuild and engine pull videos. I've never pulled an engine, it would be interesting.
Dave
No doubt, 3rd gens are harder on engines than most any other car. If you miss an important maintenance item you can damage some expensive stuff. However, a proper rebuild and some maintenance items should get you another solid 60k or more. If you sell it, the price will end up discounted by at least the same amount. These cars are minor money holes. If you treat it well, I consider it to be a minor parasite rather than a full blown finance wrecker.
If you choose to rebuild, let me know. I can lend my engine rebuild and engine pull videos. I've never pulled an engine, it would be interesting.
Dave
10-13-06, 11:05 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Improved FD
contrary to mr. "keep it stock till I drop" jconn, knowledgeable FD owners know these cars simply are not reliable stock
11 years old and it's still humming along as trouble free as ever. In fact, it's not so much humming as it is laughing at you, Improved FD, proving you wrong every day.
10-13-06, 11:32 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Jimbo Sage
The dealer advised me that it had lost its compression and will have to be replaced with a short block.
i'd double check that with a piston compression tester or get a second opinion.
