3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

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Old 04-02-14, 12:41 AM
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just about starting

Evening you guys,

Just got back from my 94 FD after installing and fixing wiring and after fiddling with the PFC and Fuel pressure regulator for a bit she started and idled for 3 seconds before i killed it. Im so freaking excited as ive been carless for 4 months and i never rebuilt a rotary before and im scared because im afraid on what to do next in terms of tuning the PFC, preflight checks, ETC... so thats why im posting.

What should i do next?

The PFC settings are all stock nothing changed (had -0.04 for injectors)

essentially what im asking is what would you do if you were first starting a fresh rebuild and setting a PFC.

the important part of the setup are as follow...

-t04R single turbo
-mbc
-850cc/1680cc cjm fuel setup (resistors soldered in)
-emmisions delete
-cyro side, 2pc apex,corner seals
-double throttle delete
-ets fmic
-high flow cat
-racing beat exhaust
-catless downpipe
-PFC
-ast delete
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Old 04-02-14, 07:54 AM
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You're fixing to have 1000 miles of easy breakin, so don't get too carried away with trying to tune the car or anything. Just make sure the injectors are set up right on the PFC so it idles and runs well and isn't just firehosing gas in there.

What I like to do -

- Start the car, run at fast idle for 15-30 minutes, let the engine fully warm up. Check for leaks, shut down (of course) if it's leaking or trying to overheat. If so, try again. Get a Lisle funnel to help top off the coolant system.

- Drain the oil, change the filter.

- Start driving the car. 500 miles no boost, next 500 small amounts of boost.

- Drain oil, change filter, drain coolant, refill coolant. You end up with a lot of crap in the coolant passages after a rebuild, it's a good idea to go ahead and clean it out.

Motor is now broken in, time to tune it in and get everything happy.

Also, not sure why you ran the car for 3 seconds then shut it off. New engines flood VERY easily, you may now have to de-flood the car. In general, during break in you want to let the engine warm up before shutting down.

YOU WILL NOT BLOW THE MOTOR UP IF YOU DON'T GO INTO BOOST. The stock map on the PFC is fine to drive around on, just stay out of boost and you'll be good. You also want to use this time to shake down the car, fix any rattles, small leaks, etc.

Take baby steps with the car, first drive around the block, second drive to the gas station to fill the tank with fresh gas, next drive to work and back, etc. Use common sense here. If something is going to go wrong it will probably go wrong in the first 1000 miles, with the likelihood of something going wrong decreasing with every mile that you get on the car.

Dale
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Old 04-02-14, 06:35 PM
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thank you so much for all the help! i killed it quickly because I'm afraid if its running way lean/rich and i dont have my wideband wired up yet. what would be correct settings for 850cc pri 1680 sec?
i read that it is -0.04 on both primary and sec, 02 feedback off and what i couldnt get any info on was the "q pri =550cc, q sec =850cc" screen. should i set that to 850/1500(max)? and would i have to adjust injector lag from 0.04?
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Old 04-04-14, 12:07 AM
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so an update on info...
the car WAS starting (with some gas pedal feathering) but the idle was 400rpm range
now after trying to change injector setting i think i flooded the engine as it wont start and if i feather the gas andi even tryed flooring it i would on get a slight backfire

now it WAS starting with stock pfc injector settings (i.e. %100, 0.00lag, Q = 550)
however the "normal" 64.5%, 0.04 lag, Q =850 WOULDNT start
when the car is on the ON position i have 31psi fuel pressure (is this right, and should the vac line for the fpr be hooked up or no? ive read both)
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