pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

No squeaks or noise. However, you do feel and hear the suspension working over harsh bumps.

Very precise steering (it helps to have new steering rack, newused control arms) and predictable but not as forgiving. The steering wheel is communicative but not jittery like it was before with 100K OEM bushings.

There was a post on the big list about these things seizing up but I'm at a loss on how that could be: I mean nylon is self lubricating to begin with and the pin itself is not a press fit. And is it hot enough to melt the nylon? Even so, the pin should still permit the arm to rotate.

WVRx7

Nylon self lubricates to a point, but it isn't sufficient in that application. Some form of external lubrication is necessary.

Additionally, road grime and other outside (elemental) factors will greatly effect the ability of the nylon to lubricate itself.

phlanigan

I think I saw one of your earlier posts where you had bought a small press for the job. How did that work out and how much time did the complete install take you? Did you use grease fittings too?

I'm contemplating a full bushing replacement as a winter project and probably need to "set expectations" with the wife.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

You definitely need the press. You don't have to be as creative as Jim Lab on the set up of angle iron etc to do the job, you just need a bunch of sockets from 1inch to 1 inch 5/16 etc..

I did the grease nipples using 1/8 inch 28 NPT nipples from www.harborfreight.com, get the drill bit and tap from home depot.

Plan on 3-4 hours per front side including the grease nipples. Also get a ball joint separator they sell on www.harborfreight.com or search my name for the thread. Don't forget to be real careful with the ABS sensor, disconnect the bracket before removing the arms.

The rear is easier, plan on 1-2 hours per side, while you're at it replace the pillow ball bushing.

Remember that the original bushings were designed to slide and rotate so that your toe geometries change depending on the weight transfer so that the handling is mild understeer and forgiving if you're a novice. See the big RX7 book by J. Yamaguchi on this. Jim Lab bushing is designed for rotation only so no toe changes.

It's predictable but not forgiving, meaning you have to be very smooth, no abrupt inputs. I'm driving the car differently around turns now because if I'm too abrupt, it goes right into oversteer even though I'm running a 275/40 Yokohamas AVS Sport rears and 245/45 fronts. However, when it goes into oversteer I can catch it and modulate it whereas with the worn out OEM bushings, it wasn't predictable as to what the rears would do.

I like it. It really feels like a go-cart now.