this isn't good...rust in the spare tire well...
#1
Constant threat
Thread Starter
this isn't good...rust in the spare tire well...
I'd taken the spare tire out as part of my recent effort to replace the broken power antenna mast. I was nonplussed to see significant run in the spare tire well, especially in the front.
After grinding away the rust, there are (3) large holes, from quarter size to one that is about .75" wide by 1.5" long.
After grinding away the rust with a DOTCO I treated the whole thing with a chemical that 'converts' (kills) rust. Other than the three holes that are through or nearly through, the rest of the wheel well is sound metal.
I'm not quite sure how I want to go about fixing this. I suppose I'll take it to a body shop for an estimate to weld it all back up or something....
Suggestions?
After grinding away the rust, there are (3) large holes, from quarter size to one that is about .75" wide by 1.5" long.
After grinding away the rust with a DOTCO I treated the whole thing with a chemical that 'converts' (kills) rust. Other than the three holes that are through or nearly through, the rest of the wheel well is sound metal.
I'm not quite sure how I want to go about fixing this. I suppose I'll take it to a body shop for an estimate to weld it all back up or something....
Suggestions?
#3
Racecar - Formula 2000
There have been many threads a few years back about some drain tubes clogging or other things causing leaking into the tire well from various locations.
Search "spare tire leak."
Search "spare tire leak."
#4
All out Track Freak!
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YEP
Another bad spot is the passenger side rear fender/quarter panel area just behind the tire. Water will collect there if the antennae drain tube is missing or not placed properly. Or maybe the antennae is simply loose.
#5
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Thread Starter
The underside looks fine...all the undercoating still in place, etc.
I think I know where mine came from, I'd had a bad rear glass seal that I had replaced about 8 years ago.
Never really thought to peek into the spare tire area...dammit.
I think I know where mine came from, I'd had a bad rear glass seal that I had replaced about 8 years ago.
Never really thought to peek into the spare tire area...dammit.
#6
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Thread Starter
I'm tempted to pop-rivet some aluminum or titanium sheeting (I've got various thicknesses from .015 thru .125 thick onto the bottom side, fair it all in and undercoat it liberally, then putty the inside, sand out, prime and paint.
Kind of a 'duct tape and baling wire' fix, but...should work.
Kind of a 'duct tape and baling wire' fix, but...should work.
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#12
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#17
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Got the fix done for now; kind of a 'cheap bastard fix', but it should work. Ended up prepping the area down to bare metal, then did a "triaxial weave" of heavy fiberglass cloth and polyester resin patch on both the inside and outside of the wheel well. Then coated both sides with rubberized undercoating. Final element was to bond a .032 thick aluminum sheet into the inside so that the fiberglass wasn't taking any direct contact with the spare tire.
Now I'm looking for a replacement tire for the emergency wheel, as the original isn't holding air.
Now I'm looking for a replacement tire for the emergency wheel, as the original isn't holding air.
#18
Racecar - Formula 2000
Got the fix done for now; kind of a 'cheap bastard fix', but it should work. Ended up prepping the area down to bare metal, then did a "triaxial weave" of heavy fiberglass cloth and polyester resin patch on both the inside and outside of the wheel well. Then coated both sides with rubberized undercoating. Final element was to bond a .032 thick aluminum sheet into the inside so that the fiberglass wasn't taking any direct contact with the spare tire.
Now I'm looking for a replacement tire for the emergency wheel, as the original isn't holding air.
Now I'm looking for a replacement tire for the emergency wheel, as the original isn't holding air.
IMO, corrosion is much more likely than the tire developing a leak. Also, it could be the tire valve leaking between it and the wheel.
Last edited by DaveW; 12-29-16 at 11:38 AM.
#20
TANSTAFL
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If you plan to leave it for a while make sure you seal it with another product. Otherwise it can absorb water and will actually cause more rust to occur. Made that mistake doing repairs to the trunk of my E28.
#21
Constant threat
Thread Starter
In my experience that rust converter stuff isn't a finish coat, but a converter and primer.
If you plan to leave it for a while make sure you seal it with another product. Otherwise it can absorb water and will actually cause more rust to occur. Made that mistake doing repairs to the trunk of my E28.
If you plan to leave it for a while make sure you seal it with another product. Otherwise it can absorb water and will actually cause more rust to occur. Made that mistake doing repairs to the trunk of my E28.
Yep! I did indeed seal it with some 'professional' rubberized undercoating product.
#22
Derwin
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Got the fix done for now; kind of a 'cheap bastard fix', but it should work. Ended up prepping the area down to bare metal, then did a "triaxial weave" of heavy fiberglass cloth and polyester resin patch on both the inside and outside of the wheel well. Then coated both sides with rubberized undercoating. Final element was to bond a .032 thick aluminum sheet into the inside so that the fiberglass wasn't taking any direct contact with the spare tire.
Now I'm looking for a replacement tire for the emergency wheel, as the original isn't holding air.
Now I'm looking for a replacement tire for the emergency wheel, as the original isn't holding air.
Just an fyi but a polyester resin fix on metal will not last. The polyester resin is designed to breakdown the binders in chopped strand mat it is not a good adhesive.
To do that kind of work you and get a proper bond the metal surface should be a little rough and an epoxy resin with a fiberglass mat would be more durable.
#23
Non Runner
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Just an fyi but a polyester resin fix on metal will not last. The polyester resin is designed to breakdown the binders in chopped strand mat it is not a good adhesive.
To do that kind of work you and get a proper bond the metal surface should be a little rough and an epoxy resin with a fiberglass mat would be more durable.
To do that kind of work you and get a proper bond the metal surface should be a little rough and an epoxy resin with a fiberglass mat would be more durable.
#24
Time or Money, Pick one
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Did you ever find out for sure where your leak was? I discovered water in my hatch yesterday unfortunately after some heavy rains. She's back in the garage now but at least it discovered the problem for me. Time to play detective. Now that I think about it, my weatherstripping on the bottom is starting to curl up and I was considering getting it my glass reset with a new seal in the near future.
#25
Constant threat
Thread Starter
The leak had come from a bad rear glass seal, which has been fixed.
I definitely intend to fix it 'right' at a later date, but wanted to get it 'drivable' and not have a hole back there.
I definitely intend to fix it 'right' at a later date, but wanted to get it 'drivable' and not have a hole back there.