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is this iron usable?

Old May 16, 2015 | 10:20 AM
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From: dayton,ohio
is this iron usable?

I took a motor apart that ran well but blew a coolant seal. From my observations it has been rebuilt before. The rear iron has some scraping which looks to be from a blown seal obviously someone else deemed it to be good to use and the engine ran fine but how many ponies will I be losing if I proceed to use this iron.

I traced over the grooves on my template to show what part of the rotor it affects. It looks like one of the grooves is right on the edge of the rotor and the other is right on the edge of the housing. The only part that the grooves touch is the edge of the apex seal.


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Old May 16, 2015 | 04:14 PM
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Are you talking about the step wear? If so, all engines get that with time. A little bit is "ok" too much is not (the FSM outlines how much is acceptable) though.

If you're overly concerned you can always send your irons in to be lapped and renitrated. I've had to do that myself (spun a rotor bearing and the rotor tips brushed the iron) and it's not too expensive. Came back looking almost as good as they did when I picked up the motor, new, from Mazda several years ago.
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Old May 16, 2015 | 07:42 PM
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It is a pretty deep gouge by the screw driver tip and a long gouge below the screw driver. If you look closely on the clear plastic I traced the gouge with sharpie.
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Old May 17, 2015 | 09:22 AM
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My rule of thumb is if your thumbnail catches in it, it's too deep.

Dale
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Old May 17, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Mazdas spec is 0.0039" if its deeper than that its junk
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Old May 18, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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From: Nokesville, Va
Originally Posted by turboIIrotary
It is a pretty deep gouge by the screw driver tip and a long gouge below the screw driver. If you look closely on the clear plastic I traced the gouge with sharpie.
Ah, I gotcha. I was viewing the thread from my phone and couldn't make out the details.
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Old May 19, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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From: VA
Originally Posted by fendamonky
Are you talking about the step wear? If so, all engines get that with time. A little bit is "ok" too much is not (the FSM outlines how much is acceptable) though.

If you're overly concerned you can always send your irons in to be lapped and renitrated. I've had to do that myself (spun a rotor bearing and the rotor tips brushed the iron) and it's not too expensive. Came back looking almost as good as they did when I picked up the motor, new, from Mazda several years ago.
Hey Levi, what's the ballpark price for lapping/nitriding an iron?
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Old May 19, 2015 | 02:02 PM
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Looks high but you really need a dial indicator and a sst to get a accurate measurement.
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Old May 21, 2015 | 05:31 PM
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From: Nokesville, Va
Originally Posted by KNONFS
Hey Levi, what's the ballpark price for lapping/nitriding an iron?
Plate Lapping and Re-Nitriding - chipsmotorsports

A full motor is $580 (plus shipping), but if you call Chip and speak with him he'll likely work with you if you don't need all irons done. My job was cheaper since I only needed the two surfaces (front iron, and front side of center iron) lapped and nitrated.

A word of warning though!!! DO NOT just have irons lapped. If you have them milled flat than you REALLY want/need to have them re-nitrated (hardened) or else they will wear very quickly!! IIRC Mazda hardens the iron faces from the factory, when you lap/mill them down you remove that hardened surface. So you def want to do the job correctly/completely and put the iron through a rehardening process before you use it.
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