Because of the invaluable help of Chris "The Animal" Carlisi my new Tech Edge Wideband with LD02 display is now in my R1. Install wasn't too bad, but Chris had installed one previously on his FD which helped quite a bit. I am very happy with the unit thus far, and it ran me just less than $500 out the door shipped from Australia. This is complete with brain, 5 wire o2 sensor (i went with the 7057), all cabling, and LD02 display. Website found here: www.wbo2.com

The next day we tuned my car to 1 bar on the local highways.....I already had a map from my esteemed colleague Steve "Genghis" Kan which made it easy b/c the timing was spot on. The car was rich at WOT which is what I expected. Right now I am at 10.5ish afrs on boost and will probably lean it to around 11.0ish or so. It is quite the conservative tune wrt timing and afr's.

The car feels like an animal from 5k to 8k, but it's all subjective of course. Definitely wants to pull past 8k rpms. For a parallel setup boost comes on pretty quickly, faster than I expected really. I can look at the datalogs to see what the boost/rpm curve looks like to give you guys an idea of the boost delivery with these BNR Stage 3s. They now have almost 7000 miles on them and are not leaking or smoking at all, I am very happy with them. Steve tells me that from comparing dyno charts the pump gas power of the parallel stage 3s is very similar to a Greddy T-78 and that is exactly what it feels like to me. I really think that running these sequentially would be the hot ticket for a killer powerband from 3000 all the way to redline.

Within the next few weeks I plan to have some timed datalogs as well as some dyno numbers (finally).

Some of the relevant specs:
--Motor ported by yours truly using some of steve's portwork as a template, basically an aggressive streetport with perhaps too much overlap , 2mm stock 2 piece seals
--BNR new style Stage 3s run parallel
--Full non-seq conversion, to include exhaust manifold flapper door removed
--ASP Race SMIC
--Downpipe, resonated midpipe (magnaflow muffler), pfs catback
--K&n filters w/out hardpipe kit
--Removed: double throttle, tb coolant, airpump, p/s, a/c, 2nd main crank pulley, all emmisions and other unnecessary/extraneous crapola
--Jacobs fc1000 amp on an fc leading coil, 9s all around for now but soon to be 10.5 ngk race in leading
--850s and 1300s/supra tt fuel pump
--Power fc/old school profec b
--Spec stage 4 sprung 6 puck clutch with lightened pressure plate option/rb light flywheel, kgparts diff brace

 

Sweet, Rich.

Mind posting a description of how you installed the Techedge, with regards to running the wiring from the sensor, etc.?

 

Yeah i wanna hear a write up on the install, and where you tapped into power...

Im still waiting to get a power regulator for the techedge i have seeing as i reversed the power inputs and fried a trace and that component.

 

i need to see what my afrs are at idle...perhaps you will bring it to the meet we have this weekend.
also i want to race that beast.

 

Where abouts are you hitting full boost? just I'm not hitting 16psi until approx 5k rpm on a very similar setup and am curious as to whether your car is the same? and how is holding boost top end? - mine is tailing off noticeably much above 7k rpm (peak power is made at 7.6k, but boost has dropped back down to 14psi by then.

We suspect something is up and have another wastegate actuator to try...

Matty - good luck at doing anything with idle AFRs. I've never managed to get a decent reading on any car via a tailpipe probe, even got an innovate one on the off chance it would work (but no). I run my Techedge sensor in the downpipe on my own car where it works fine, but when mapping other peoples cars I use a tailpipe probe which works fine on throttle (idle fueling becomes an educated guess).

 

cant wait to see the #'s ...

 

actually its partial throttle and on off throttle where i have the issue. Idle was a typo before.

 

Nice
Rich I have been running the TE WB full time in the car for years (since my first 3rd gen and with a V1.0 TE WB) and all I have to say is that when you are WOT and wondering what is going on in the engine, it is really nice to look up and see 10s on the display.....

Have fun with it, you will find out it is a solid performer....

 

Did you get the 2A0 (plastic box) or 2B0 (aluminum box)? It looks like only the 2A0 comes in kit form...

Short cable (2.6 m) or long cable (4.0 m)?

Where did you mount the sensor? Did you add a bung at the bottom of the downpipe or another solution?

Thanks!

 

Hey tyler,

i used the existing o2 sensor bung and ran the 4.0 meter cable through the hole in the firewall where the ecu goes through, to the brain which i located under the passenger seat, towards the front of the underside of the seat. tapped a switched power source from my greddy tt harness(blue wire is correct, although you would think red is power. negative on that assumption, lol). grounded it from the ecu ground spot. chris used his software to calibrate the unit (o2 sensor out of the pipe) and voila, done.

I am still looking for a good place to mount the display, however.

 

Right now i am still need to dial in the boost better. full boost comes on around 4k or so i think. I will tell you that the car pulls like an absolute freight train to redline.

 

hey john,

4.0 but it wasn't necessary. 2.6 will work fine. 2a0 plastic box. i used the existing bung, my oem o2 sensor is sitting on a shelf now with a gazillion other parts

 

thanks jeff, chris recommended it after extensive research on his part. I have come to trust his judgement on these things so I pulled the trigger on the setup.

 

Thanks when you do get it spooling properly any chance you could run a map watch on the datalogit against basic boost and e-mail it to me? It'd be handy to know when we do eventually get them working right

 

I'm going to do that for Rich in the near future, but first I need to set an unbeatable bench mark with my 35R. I had a good time helping Rich setup his map last weekend. It was really neat to see the car slowly come alive as we dialed everything in. He is using a boost controller that looks like it was designed prior to the advent of the microprocessor, so I imagine he could pick up a bit of response with a newer unit.

 

Hey, it's an old skool profec b. as many are aware, the newer spec II profecs are notorious for not holding anything resembling consistent boost. Newer is not always better .

 

Amen.

My original spec Profec-B is bullet proof and holds what it is told to hold. I am not interested in anything with a mind of its own....

except of course my wife, who just came in and is looking over my shoulder as I write this..... Hiya honey

 

Jeff is the man....

 

Rich,
I would put a heat sink on the 7057 sensor otherwise it will overheat (especiallly in the stock location) if you leave the car idling too long.
John

 

I have never had this problem with the sensor mounted 6" off the turbo outlet and my afrs are 15:1 under light load. However, because I have a single turbo my manifold places the 02 sensor flange further away from the exhaust ports.

 

The 7057 has a problem when the body temps reach 850C. This problem is discussed in the PFC forum. Some insulation in the form of a heat sink between the DP or MP and top part of the O2 sensor keeps the sensor in its happy range...

Try using a couple of pieces of 4 inch x 4 inch of really thin gauge aluminum (hobby gauge) with a hole drilled through the center of each ( hole size exactly the size of the threaded section of the sensor). Bend the points of the top piece up and the points of the bottom piece down to form wings. Install the sensor and you should have no trouble.

Remember this is only necessary if your sensor acts stupidly.... Well ventilated engine compartments and heat coated downpipes may actually keep the problem from developing.

 

Agreed. Jeff, I don't want you to think I'm disregarding what you are saying. However, I personally have not had a problem with it on the street and my car is a daily driver. Also, bear in mind that I spoke to Peter at Tech Edge about the temp problem on turbo rotaries prior to mounting it and he said the vast majority of people have not had temp problems with the sensor mounted near the turbo outlet(s).

 

Rich, sounds like a monster. Im headed for the BNR stage 3 by the end of summer.

I have been looking around for a wideband setup. I have an o2 bung about 1 foot from the end of my DP...is this a good location? What is the difference between the Bosch sensors?

BTW, Chris, my motor is running great. I've just got a couple small idle issues to work out. and of course boost issues.

-Sean

 

Just for the record, I wasn't trying to say that all 7057s had this problem. Like you, I never experienced this problem in any other of the many people's cars I had it in when I was using my v2.0a as my tuning rig. Then when the sensor in my v1.0 needed to be replaced I replaced the entire system with my v2.0a. My sensor bung is in the DP about 4 inches downstream of my RX6 turbo and started giving crazy readings within about 3-4 minutes of startup. Since I moved the sensor to the MP, about 15 in downstream of the turbo, I have had no problems.

I also had lengthy discussions with Peter when this "problem" was first noted and I can confirm that he said that, for the most part, this was not a widespread problem. In fact the RX6 turbo is particularly prone to the problem because of the design of its heat shield, which concentrates and directs the turbo heat right onto the body of the sensor.

Just so everyone is aware that this is not exclusively a Tech Edge problem, it seems that most of these "problems" were reported with PLX and Innovative LM-1 units and that the heat sink design originally was posted by an LM-1 user.

 

I just got this wideband, Do i need to calibrate it, and if so, how do I do that? Also, I have the NTK sensor, any heat issues related to this sensor?