I'm thinking of converting ...
It is just the block. Usually they have new rotor housings and the max of 1 lapped side housing..
They should last about as long as a new engine if they have new housings.
Of course the come with all new seals and i believe a 1 year 12K mile warrenty.
-Zach
They should last about as long as a new engine if they have new housings.
Of course the come with all new seals and i believe a 1 year 12K mile warrenty.
-Zach
Lapping
Is that lapping the outside of the housing (cant see why it would be) or the inside that connects with the rotor housing?
And if I understand correctly its just to make a cleaner connection and tigher seal with the rotor housing?
And if I understand correctly its just to make a cleaner connection and tigher seal with the rotor housing?
ahhh
makes sense.
If my questions are bugging you just lemme know, if not I got lots more
How do they decide which side gets lapped, is there one side of the engine that gets more grooves in it than the other?
If my questions are bugging you just lemme know, if not I got lots more

How do they decide which side gets lapped, is there one side of the engine that gets more grooves in it than the other?
more
Ok the little lightbulb clicked in my head, that makes a lot of sense now.
How smart (reliability and long lastiveness wise) is it to rebuild your own rotary motor? I feel confident that I can mechanically do it, but I dont know what issues might be involved, like getting new housing or lapping the housings or whatnot.
How smart (reliability and long lastiveness wise) is it to rebuild your own rotary motor? I feel confident that I can mechanically do it, but I dont know what issues might be involved, like getting new housing or lapping the housings or whatnot.
If you are interested i suggest you buy a video on how to do it.. check out http://www.atkinsrotary.com They have a howto video.. I have never rebuilt one before. But a freind and i are pulled his engine out this week & are gonna pull it apart.. For the most part if you screw it up it is a big loss.. it is safer to just buy one.. A seal kit cost ~$1000 so if you mess it up You could be wasting alot of money...
-Zach
-Zach
You need to check everything and make sure it is within tolarences... Usually you have to replace at least 1 rotor housing and 1 rotor.. Sometimes they are both bad..
So if your rotor housings, front, intermediate, side housing, & rotors are good the you need to just replace all the seals in the engine including the apex seals & springs...
So if your rotor housings, front, intermediate, side housing, & rotors are good the you need to just replace all the seals in the engine including the apex seals & springs...
excellent
Its nice to know that there are videos available to show what the different tolerances are then, doesnt sound too bad, unless the cost of the housings and rotars are alot.
you guys think its worth looking for an r1 or r2 (mainly for the brake cooling vents and the dual oil coolers) or just take any model I can find in good shape and go from there?
you guys think its worth looking for an r1 or r2 (mainly for the brake cooling vents and the dual oil coolers) or just take any model I can find in good shape and go from there?
It depends on what you want to do.. But any model is good.. Rotor housing are expensive.. that is why it might be better to buy a reman..
You can always upgrade the oil coolers & suspension.. If you want a sun roof though, buy a touring....
-Zach
You can always upgrade the oil coolers & suspension.. If you want a sun roof though, buy a touring....
-Zach
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