Alright, I got my car on the road for the first time in 4-5 months today. As I was driving it around I noticed that the ignition seemed to be breaking up a lot in the lower rpms. Ive checked all the plug wires to make sure they are not crossed. My next thought was that the gas is just old and is having trouble igniting. Its about 4-5months old. Could this be it? Im going to go try and fill her up this afternoon and see if that makes a difference.

Also, the car is backfiring a lot in this rpm range when i let it slow down while in gear. Im not sure what this means.

 

new reman? vacuum readings? I would definitely go fill up with some 93 octane, fuel injector cleaner wouldnt hurt either.

 

i rebuilt it myself. I set the idle to around 1500 so I dont think vacume readings come into play, if they do it is around 14-16 at 1500 i think. The fuel injectors were cleaned when the engine was apart. It acts like it is running too rich. As far as I can see all the vacume lines are connected correctly. The only thing that might be wrong that I can tell is that I do not have a gasket on the pipe running to the cat. I didnt think it recieved any type of air flow if the air pump was removed?

 

just checked my codes and I got a 39, 3, 33, 17, 30?(not sure if i saw this one or not), 38.

Most of these are from soliniods that are still plugged in but all the hoses have been removed from because of block off plates. The only codes that Im not sure about are 3 and 17. I installed a standerd bosch O2 sensor before my engine when. Could this be the problem in recieving the code? and with 3(Crank position G sensor) what do I do about this and will this cause the problems Im seeing with break up?

 

Well, I just did a search and I am wondering if this means I have a bad thrust bearing? or could it mean that my e-shaft is bent. I have put on 35miles on the rebuild, and the engine had about 15-20k on it before it ate an apex seal. Any advice will be greatly appriciated.

 

feels like I am talking to myself

 

it's just the timing of the thread, the weekend means less people on here viewing and posting. Come Monday, you'll get some responses. One obvious question is....is the crank angle sensor aligned correctly? If not, then obviously your timing will be off.

Tm

 

Yea, I know about the timing but its really the only time I get to work on my car. How do I check the alignment ect. How should I go about checking this out and narrowing down what is causing the code to be thrown?

I did some searching and I either ran into dead ends or something that requires more work then I was hoping.

 

Did you replace or check the ignition harness to the coils?

 

No I didn't. That wouldn't play into the error code im getting would it?

 

Well for one, if you took all the time to rebuild your motor, you'd think you'd want to run it in gently, not slam the accelerator to the floor.

Two you don't need the O2 sensor plugged in, unplug it, and the car will default to a pig rich map, which should help your problem if it is the O2 Sensor.

If you're ideling @ 1500 you have other issues, with your intake.... maybe check the AWS, Accelerated Warmup System... to see if it settles down, after a sec or if the Wax pellet is stuck....

-DC

 

I set it to idle higher then it is supposed to because its not wanting to when it is lower.

Where did I saw I was slamming the accelerator to the floor?

Ive only drivin the car a couple of time each for about 5-10 miles. When I try to accelerate at all it seems like it is missing. It also seems like it is missing when I let it sit there and idle. Im getting code 3 which is the Crank position G sensor. I know that this sensor deals with timing and that if it is off then it is probobly my problem because it sounds like it is missing. Any one know how to fix this? or what would cause this.

 

I think I might have been wrong about getting the cade 3. Do the codes appear in numerical order? I think I may have mistaken the code 33 for a 30 and a 3. Im completly lost right now lol.

It sucks

 

bump

 

you might want to try the General Rotary Tech Support or Rotary Performance sections.

if your motor isn't idling right at lower than 1500 rpm, i doubt it has anything to do with ignition. plus your vacuum at 1500 is way to low.

 

Ive been thinking about it, and it almost acts the same way it did when my MAP sensor hose fell off. So Im kinda leaning towards a vacume leak of some kind. I really do think I was thinking about it the wrong way. I think the problem is that it is dumping way too much fuel into it. I guess ill take off the UIM and start searching for bad vac. line.

 

a vac leak will cause a lean condition. if you realy think it is running rich look at the fpr, coolant temp sensor i have even seen people put a check valve in the vac line to the map sensor when it needs a filter. make sure you are getting spark on all plugs.

 

I have the gas filter in place in that line. Im getting spark. I've checked all the grounds I can see and they are good. What do I need to do to check the fpr?

Im assuming its running rich. I drive it 35 miles and the gas gauge dropped from half a tank to a little less then 1/4. I thought a vac. leak could cause rich conditions.

here is a list of the engine codes im reciecing:
17
30
33
34
38
39

I can make most of these go away by putting in resitors on the soliniods that I have removed the vacume lines from due to block off plates.

 

Well I haven't started the car since Saterday and i tried to do it today and nothing. I'm pretty sure it is flooded and my plugs are fouled. I ordered some new ones that should be here tomorrow. I checked for any vacume leaks and I can't see any. I checked the grounds and changed one by the ECU. It probobly wasnt my problem though. Still don't know why I am not getting a responce from the O2 sensor.

I might have one bad ignition wire. The insulation is slightly cracked but no wires were damaged. This wouldnt make a difference would it?

As too my vacume reading, I have a large street port so they should be slightly lower then a stock engine right?

I have the stock fpr so Im not sure what could go wrong with it mad_7tist.

 

pull the vac line off the fpr if it has fuel in it it is bad. vac leaks allow more air into the car than the ecu is expecting thus running leaner than it wants. sure the coolant temp sensor is not switched with the fuel thermo? are the injectors leaking?

 

If I had switched those to sensors up would the stock temp gauge still work correctly? I had the injectors cleaned and flow tested while I was doing the rebuild, but that doesn't mean something could have happened to them.

Todays list of things to do is:
replace spark plugs and get the engine unflooded
reset the ECU
check the fpr vac line


One more thing. Could it be that I need to adjust my TPS?

 

i had these exact same symptoms after my rebuild that i did myself. Search for posts by me and you'll come up with some stuff i thought it could have been. I still havn't fixed it but the stuff i replaced and the engines codes iv'e corrected have helped somewhat. Do you also have trouble on hot starts?

 

To start it most of the time I have to hold the accelertor to the floor, but it doesnt matter if its cold or hot.

 

My old plugs were fouled out so I replaced them today. Started right up after I wen through the unflooding steps. Still the same problems though, but sounds different. It is running extremly rich I think. Smoking all the time. I put a white rag to the exhaust and it was black. I really think it is somthing fuel related, but it might be a timing issue. My questions are would resetting the ECU help, could it be the TPS sensor, could it be any one of the engine codes(keep in mine I have all the block off plates on so most of them are from removed vacume line from those soliniods), and could it be the ignition? Im stumped at the moment. There isn't a rotory shop anywhere close to me that works on 3rdgens. There is one about a hour away that works a lot on 1st and 2nd gens. He occasnially does 3rdgen work. I might end up towing it up there to see what he says.

 

bump