ignition break up 1st 2nd 3rd but fine in 4th and 5th
06-18-16, 08:42 PM
#1
ignition break up 1st 2nd 3rd but fine in 4th and 5th
to cut to the chase, i get really bad ignition break up in 1, 2, and 3 but 4 and 5 are ok. the break up comes in 123 only when trying to go into boost. in 4 it breaks up just a little bit but then takes off like nothing is wrong and in 5, no issues at all. in addition to this, my idle is really crappy outside of ~900-1000 rpm. if i rev it at all, it sounds like break up but it will rev. i have attached some logs for your viewing pleasure if you were so inclined to view them. i remember reading a thread where someone had a similar problem but of course, i cant find it now. i want to stress that the parts im using are the same ones that i pulled off the car with the exception of the pulleys. the trigger wheel was never removed.
stats:
tuned power fc
bur7 and bur9 plugs and have already tried all 9s. the 9s are brand new and the 7s are close to new.
rc engineering 850p and 1300s injectors
single turbo gt35r
taylor 8mm plug wires
coil packs and all other ignition parts are tested good
injectors were sent off and cleaned by injectors rx
all grounds are good and coil packs are bolted directly to the motor in the stock bracket thing
background:
everything on the car was great and fine but i recently took the car apart, got it painted and cleaned up everything in the engine bay and put it all back. its still on the same tune that it was on.
no matter how much fuel i pull from the idle cells, the afr doesnt change. it stabilized quite a bit but the afr remains in the mid to low 11s.
im using an aem uego. the digital one. i have an1 on the datalogit hooked to the white wire and an2 to ground.
breakup only happens when trying to go into boost. normal driving is fine but stays agressively rich. either pegged out at 10 or low to mid 11s. all shown in the logs
tps is calibrated properly and map sensor bench checks within spec
i have no idle controls to include a deleted isc
stats:
tuned power fc
bur7 and bur9 plugs and have already tried all 9s. the 9s are brand new and the 7s are close to new.
rc engineering 850p and 1300s injectors
single turbo gt35r
taylor 8mm plug wires
coil packs and all other ignition parts are tested good
injectors were sent off and cleaned by injectors rx
all grounds are good and coil packs are bolted directly to the motor in the stock bracket thing
background:
everything on the car was great and fine but i recently took the car apart, got it painted and cleaned up everything in the engine bay and put it all back. its still on the same tune that it was on.
no matter how much fuel i pull from the idle cells, the afr doesnt change. it stabilized quite a bit but the afr remains in the mid to low 11s.
im using an aem uego. the digital one. i have an1 on the datalogit hooked to the white wire and an2 to ground.
breakup only happens when trying to go into boost. normal driving is fine but stays agressively rich. either pegged out at 10 or low to mid 11s. all shown in the logs
tps is calibrated properly and map sensor bench checks within spec
i have no idle controls to include a deleted isc
Last edited by cr-rex; 06-19-16 at 09:26 AM.
06-18-16, 09:53 PM
#5
no idea. i dont have a gauge or a way to monitor. theres no real change with or without the fuel pump rewire if thats what youre getting at. i am going to say its fine since when boosting in 4th and 5th its pulls perfectly fine and the afr is stable. it can probably be seen in the logs i posted
06-18-16, 10:10 PM
#7
j see. with lower insufficient fuel pressure shouldnt i be leaning out as i approach ignition break up? because i dont. it pegs out the gauge at 10. regardless, i firmly believe my fuel system is in working order. i previously troubleshot all the components with the exception of checking what my fuel pressure was just because it wasnt relevant with the issue i was chasing. which ended up being the feed and return being switched. all irrelevant to this though.
as far as the fast rise in rpm, not sure what you mean. normal driving is fine 1-5 gear. its ONLY when trying to get into boost that theres an issue. regardless if i ease into it or mash it.
as far as the fast rise in rpm, not sure what you mean. normal driving is fine 1-5 gear. its ONLY when trying to get into boost that theres an issue. regardless if i ease into it or mash it.
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06-18-16, 10:53 PM
#8
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setting 5 of powerfc, what is the primary and secondary transition set at % wise and what is the secondary transition (ms)?
let me guess, something like 30-40% and 1.5ms.
try doing 30% and .5ms first.
let me guess, something like 30-40% and 1.5ms.
try doing 30% and .5ms first.
06-19-16, 09:27 AM
#9
yes.... thats exactly what it was. 40% and 1.5ms. i will change it and report back. what will this change do? does this correlate with the ignition breaking up? does the gap between the cas and trigger wheel have any bearing on this? what about the main pulley itself? i never removed the stock trigger wheel but i did swap the main pulley with an aftermarket one like sold on banzai. i did remove the cas of course when i painted the motor. are the 2 sensors interchangeable as in they are not specific NE or G? i have the plugs correct with white on top and gray on bottom and the bracket is installed correctly.
just to clear the air of the possibility, the trigger wheel itself was not painted. i learned from another thread that someone had some issues with that so i bagged and taped off the wheels before painting. there is no paint on the trigger wheel.
just to clear the air of the possibility, the trigger wheel itself was not painted. i learned from another thread that someone had some issues with that so i bagged and taped off the wheels before painting. there is no paint on the trigger wheel.
Last edited by cr-rex; 06-19-16 at 10:05 AM.
06-19-16, 01:59 PM
#10
So with your settings, break up has minimized to a stumble between the transition from vacuum to positive pressure or going into boost but I can boost in all gears. The break up is still there but if I keep on the throttle, it pushed through and goes. Now a new issue is my afr. Its getting up into 14+. Before the change, it would stay in the mid to low 11s under boost. As soon as it hits 14.xx I ease off the throttle. This yeilds .38 bar at ~6000rpm.
edit: New development, it will idle fine for a little bit then slowly start to lean out then stall. Throttle input doesn't help. Only after allowing it to sit for a few minutes will it start back up. It also seems that when the ignition should be breaking up, it now becomes fuel cut. I only say this because the wideband goes all the way lean and reads --- then goes to "normal" when I let off the gas.
edit: New development, it will idle fine for a little bit then slowly start to lean out then stall. Throttle input doesn't help. Only after allowing it to sit for a few minutes will it start back up. It also seems that when the ignition should be breaking up, it now becomes fuel cut. I only say this because the wideband goes all the way lean and reads --- then goes to "normal" when I let off the gas.
Last edited by cr-rex; 06-19-16 at 04:05 PM.
06-20-16, 10:32 AM
#11
If I'm reading your latest post correctly, in that you've made a change to your PFC and now seeing 14.0 AFR on boost, do not boost anymore at all. Revert back or you will smoke the engine.
If previously, you had been pegging the gauge full rich, as in 10.0:1 on your wide band, its likely that you're experiencing spark blow out, from too much fuel for the stock coil system.
You have effectively fixed the spark blow out by leaning out the injectors, however, you've gone too far and now too lean. Need to get it around an 11.0-11.5 for the amount of boost you're running, assuming that your leading timing and split is tuned correctly.
Recommend getting on a dyno, so that you can repeat a few runs and get an idea of the changes to the PFC settings until you reach your mark.
If previously, you had been pegging the gauge full rich, as in 10.0:1 on your wide band, its likely that you're experiencing spark blow out, from too much fuel for the stock coil system.
You have effectively fixed the spark blow out by leaning out the injectors, however, you've gone too far and now too lean. Need to get it around an 11.0-11.5 for the amount of boost you're running, assuming that your leading timing and split is tuned correctly.
Recommend getting on a dyno, so that you can repeat a few runs and get an idea of the changes to the PFC settings until you reach your mark.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 06-20-16 at 10:35 AM.
06-20-16, 07:32 PM
#12
Haha no argument here. I have a new problem though. Im thinking its fouled plugs but now the car will idle for a short period (a minute or so) then slowly start to lean out and then stall. just before it begins to lean out, the idle will surge a few hundred rpm as well. I logged it this morning if someone would like to see. It does start nice and strong without a hiccup and idles perfect for the time it runs before stalling. Is this from fouled plugs or an indication of something else? I pulled the plugs out for a deflood since I couldn't get it to start and they were pitch black. All 4. Deflooded and it started back up then died almost immediately. I have new plugs on the way but in the mean time should I be looking for something else? Am I chasing my tail on this and all I require is a retune?
What I dont understand is how the previous dyno tune can be so off now. Its 98% the same set up. The only difference being minor things that have no bearing on the final product. Like different pulleys, clutch, a different filler neck etc...
What I dont understand is how the previous dyno tune can be so off now. Its 98% the same set up. The only difference being minor things that have no bearing on the final product. Like different pulleys, clutch, a different filler neck etc...
06-21-16, 09:03 AM
#13
Haha no argument here. I have a new problem though. Im thinking its fouled plugs but now the car will idle for a short period (a minute or so) then slowly start to lean out and then stall. just before it begins to lean out, the idle will surge a few hundred rpm as well. I logged it this morning if someone would like to see. It does start nice and strong without a hiccup and idles perfect for the time it runs before stalling. Is this from fouled plugs or an indication of something else? I pulled the plugs out for a deflood since I couldn't get it to start and they were pitch black. All 4. Deflooded and it started back up then died almost immediately. I have new plugs on the way but in the mean time should I be looking for something else? Am I chasing my tail on this and all I require is a retune?
What I dont understand is how the previous dyno tune can be so off now. Its 98% the same set up. The only difference being minor things that have no bearing on the final product. Like different pulleys, clutch, a different filler neck etc...
What I dont understand is how the previous dyno tune can be so off now. Its 98% the same set up. The only difference being minor things that have no bearing on the final product. Like different pulleys, clutch, a different filler neck etc...
If that doesn't fix it, check your idle speed. Make sure you're running above 900rpm and pulling good vaccuum.
Then,
There's something called Post Crank Enrichment. Usually the engine has a specific amount of cranking fuel, that is injected only during cranking. The engine fires up on this fuel and then once it comes up above ~400rpm, it switches to the main fuel table. Before it uses the inputs from the main fuel table, it will usually idle off of a Post Crank Enrichment, which is based upon coolant/air temp compensation, and for a specified duration like 30-60 seconds etc. This is to allow the engine a little time to warm up, directly after cranking, so that the fuel will begin to atomize correctly. If you can keep it alive for 30 seconds by using the throttle and then it keeps running on its own after that, its more than likely the issue.
Im not sure what the PFC uses, as I've never used one, but see if there's settings for that. Try adding to post crank enrichment if its there. If its not there, you'll just have to run more fuel in the main table as a gross compensation for this issue.
Changing your clutch could make a big difference if the previous clutch was slipping. It could have been slipping without your knowledge. Now that the engine is seeing full load, you may be hitting areas in the map that signal more fuel, which was not accessed on the dyno.
06-21-16, 10:51 AM
#14
i believe one of my original problems still remain with me not being able to get the afr to change regardless of how much fuel i pull. my idle is 1000-1100 since thats what it was before the teardown and all my vacuum lines are brand new thick walled silicone and secured at all ends. i also tested the map sensor per the fsm: pressure vs voltage and it checked out.
as far as the post cranking enrichment, there is a setting in the software called "cranking (ms)" where is has pre set temperatures on the left and numbers on the right that you can alter. its in the same tab as all the other injector setting so that could be what youre talking about. theres also one for air temp and one for water temp. all under setting 2 in the program if you would like to download it and see what im working with should you be so inclined.
on initial start up it doesnt need any throttle input to stay alive. it idles perfect on its own. its just after ~minute, you can hear the idle surge slightly then watch the afr creep leaner and leaner until it just stalls. although i cant get the afr to changed regardless of fuel changes to the map, there is an auditory difference in how smooth the idle is if i add too much fuel. ive also had to subtract a fair amount to keep it from constantly flooding. i cant explain why the uego isnt reflecting these changes but there clearly is a difference. i checked my exhaust for leaks thinking that would have some bearing on the reading with the free air and all skewing it but everything turned up fine. i even tightened the vband on the downpipe a little just to be sure.
the new plugs arrived yesterday so i am going to install brand new 9s and 7s to see what that does for me. i am also going to reload the original map that was on there when i bought the car and subtract fuel from the idle cells like i did in the beginning. basically, im going to reset. also just to note, the clutch that was in there was pretty much new. how much impact do things like that carry on a tune? im using an os giken twin plate now. it has the flywheel built in and the whole assembly is obviously a lot lighter. i also switched to aftermarket wheels which are of course much heavier and larger than the stock ones. do things like this really affect tunes that much?
edit: update from a few moments ago. brand new plugs and a deflood procedure just because and it just doesnt want to start. i got it to start twice, the first one i logged and have attached and the second time it fired up and died immediately. i tried different iterations of the map up to this point and got the same result. now it just cranks. i can hear the pulses in the exhaust but no attempt to start. is all of this just a case of needing a retune or what? i feel like any progress i make is phantom. i dont want to tow the car 3hrs to the tuner and have the issue be something else and have to pay him to troubleshoot ghosts. i have no problem getting it retuned but only AFTER i can get it to start, idle and run on its own everytime regardless of how rich. that way i can know for sure that when it gets to the tuner all he has to do is tune and make minor adjustments.
as far as the post cranking enrichment, there is a setting in the software called "cranking (ms)" where is has pre set temperatures on the left and numbers on the right that you can alter. its in the same tab as all the other injector setting so that could be what youre talking about. theres also one for air temp and one for water temp. all under setting 2 in the program if you would like to download it and see what im working with should you be so inclined.
on initial start up it doesnt need any throttle input to stay alive. it idles perfect on its own. its just after ~minute, you can hear the idle surge slightly then watch the afr creep leaner and leaner until it just stalls. although i cant get the afr to changed regardless of fuel changes to the map, there is an auditory difference in how smooth the idle is if i add too much fuel. ive also had to subtract a fair amount to keep it from constantly flooding. i cant explain why the uego isnt reflecting these changes but there clearly is a difference. i checked my exhaust for leaks thinking that would have some bearing on the reading with the free air and all skewing it but everything turned up fine. i even tightened the vband on the downpipe a little just to be sure.
the new plugs arrived yesterday so i am going to install brand new 9s and 7s to see what that does for me. i am also going to reload the original map that was on there when i bought the car and subtract fuel from the idle cells like i did in the beginning. basically, im going to reset. also just to note, the clutch that was in there was pretty much new. how much impact do things like that carry on a tune? im using an os giken twin plate now. it has the flywheel built in and the whole assembly is obviously a lot lighter. i also switched to aftermarket wheels which are of course much heavier and larger than the stock ones. do things like this really affect tunes that much?
edit: update from a few moments ago. brand new plugs and a deflood procedure just because and it just doesnt want to start. i got it to start twice, the first one i logged and have attached and the second time it fired up and died immediately. i tried different iterations of the map up to this point and got the same result. now it just cranks. i can hear the pulses in the exhaust but no attempt to start. is all of this just a case of needing a retune or what? i feel like any progress i make is phantom. i dont want to tow the car 3hrs to the tuner and have the issue be something else and have to pay him to troubleshoot ghosts. i have no problem getting it retuned but only AFTER i can get it to start, idle and run on its own everytime regardless of how rich. that way i can know for sure that when it gets to the tuner all he has to do is tune and make minor adjustments.
Last edited by cr-rex; 06-21-16 at 12:35 PM.
06-21-16, 11:58 AM
#15
i believe one of my original problems still remain with me not being able to get the afr to change regardless of how much fuel i pull. my idle is 1000-1100 since thats what it was before the teardown and all my vacuum lines are brand new thick walled silicone and secured at all ends. i also tested the map sensor per the fsm: pressure vs voltage and it checked out.
as far as the post cranking enrichment, there is a setting in the software called "cranking (ms)" where is has pre set temperatures on the left and numbers on the right that you can alter. its in the same tab as all the other injector setting so that could be what youre talking about. theres also one for air temp and one for water temp. all under setting 2 in the program if you would like to download it and see what im working with should you be so inclined.
on initial start up it doesnt need any throttle input to stay alive. it idles perfect on its own. its just after ~minute, you can hear the idle surge slightly then watch the afr creep leaner and leaner until it just stalls. although i cant get the afr to changed regardless of fuel changes to the map, there is an auditory difference in how smooth the idle is if i add too much fuel. ive also had to subtract a fair amount to keep it from constantly flooding. i cant explain why the uego isnt reflecting these changes but there clearly is a difference. i checked my exhaust for leaks thinking that would have some bearing on the reading with the free air and all skewing it but everything turned up fine. i even tightened the vband on the downpipe a little just to be sure.
the new plugs arrived yesterday so i am going to install brand new 9s and 7s to see what that does for me. i am also going to reload the original map that was on there when i bought the car and subtract fuel from the idle cells like i did in the beginning. basically, im going to reset. also just to note, the clutch that was in there was pretty much new. how much impact do things like that carry on a tune? im using an os giken twin plate now. it has the flywheel built in and the whole assembly is obviously a lot lighter. i also switched to aftermarket wheels which are of course much heavier and larger than the stock ones. do things like this really affect tunes that much?
as far as the post cranking enrichment, there is a setting in the software called "cranking (ms)" where is has pre set temperatures on the left and numbers on the right that you can alter. its in the same tab as all the other injector setting so that could be what youre talking about. theres also one for air temp and one for water temp. all under setting 2 in the program if you would like to download it and see what im working with should you be so inclined.
on initial start up it doesnt need any throttle input to stay alive. it idles perfect on its own. its just after ~minute, you can hear the idle surge slightly then watch the afr creep leaner and leaner until it just stalls. although i cant get the afr to changed regardless of fuel changes to the map, there is an auditory difference in how smooth the idle is if i add too much fuel. ive also had to subtract a fair amount to keep it from constantly flooding. i cant explain why the uego isnt reflecting these changes but there clearly is a difference. i checked my exhaust for leaks thinking that would have some bearing on the reading with the free air and all skewing it but everything turned up fine. i even tightened the vband on the downpipe a little just to be sure.
the new plugs arrived yesterday so i am going to install brand new 9s and 7s to see what that does for me. i am also going to reload the original map that was on there when i bought the car and subtract fuel from the idle cells like i did in the beginning. basically, im going to reset. also just to note, the clutch that was in there was pretty much new. how much impact do things like that carry on a tune? im using an os giken twin plate now. it has the flywheel built in and the whole assembly is obviously a lot lighter. i also switched to aftermarket wheels which are of course much heavier and larger than the stock ones. do things like this really affect tunes that much?
Hmm...
Wouldn't expect the tune to be that far off. Are you sure the oxygen sensor isn't expired?
It could be that that you're getting inaccurate readings at WOT that do not reflect the actual amount of fuel, considering you do not see any changes at idle. Because youre mentioning that the car responds to fuel but the sensor does not, it seems like a possibility.
Really hard to diagnose what is the problem over the web. Would be really better off getting it to a dyno or trying another wideband in the tailpipe etc to see if changes make a difference?So if you add fuel to the main map before its about to lean out and die, does it save it ?
06-21-16, 01:08 PM
#16
i just edited my previous post with what happened a little ago.
the wideband i have is brand new. the wideband is functional since it reacts to everything else. as of now, the car wont run long enough for me to try and save it. i dont have a second wideband to try and check between the two and in order for me to get on a dyno would require a tow and the car to be able to start. the closest rotary tuner is ~3hrs away
the wideband i have is brand new. the wideband is functional since it reacts to everything else. as of now, the car wont run long enough for me to try and save it. i dont have a second wideband to try and check between the two and in order for me to get on a dyno would require a tow and the car to be able to start. the closest rotary tuner is ~3hrs away
06-21-16, 01:22 PM
#17
edit: New development, it will idle fine for a little bit then slowly start to lean out then stall. Throttle input doesn't help. Only after allowing it to sit for a few minutes will it start back up. It also seems that when the ignition should be breaking up, it now becomes fuel cut. I only say this because the wideband goes all the way lean and reads --- then goes to "normal" when I let off the gas.
100% your fuel pump is dead and/or the pre-filter sock is clogged.
It might have been when you switched your fuel lines to and from the rails you backflushed a bunch of crap out of your main canister fuel filter into the tank and clogged your pump's pre-filter sock.
Don't do anything else before you try switching the fuel pump & sock filter out with known good parts (your old stock one, a friends, a $100 Walbro- anything).
You might have to clean your tank out.
100% your fuel pump is dead and/or the pre-filter sock is clogged.
It might have been when you switched your fuel lines to and from the rails you backflushed a bunch of crap out of your main canister fuel filter into the tank and clogged your pump's pre-filter sock.
Don't do anything else before you try switching the fuel pump & sock filter out with known good parts (your old stock one, a friends, a $100 Walbro- anything).
You might have to clean your tank out.
06-21-16, 03:57 PM
#19
I don't know if the ECU is in effect pulling the voltage to the pump down when you are on the diagnostic jumper.
When the ECU is giving the pump full voltage it is probably able to drive through the problem.
Or... do you already have the stock pump wiring bypassed? I didn't see a list with your full fuel system.
When the ECU is giving the pump full voltage it is probably able to drive through the problem.
Or... do you already have the stock pump wiring bypassed? I didn't see a list with your full fuel system.
06-22-16, 05:45 PM
#20
I don't know if the ECU is in effect pulling the voltage to the pump down when you are on the diagnostic jumper.
When the ECU is giving the pump full voltage it is probably able to drive through the problem.
Or... do you already have the stock pump wiring bypassed? I didn't see a list with your full fuel system.
When the ECU is giving the pump full voltage it is probably able to drive through the problem.
Or... do you already have the stock pump wiring bypassed? I didn't see a list with your full fuel system.
Stock rails
Rc engineering 1300&850
Supra pump
I have a new fuel pump and sock sitting. Im going to pull the pump and replace the sock and fuel filter while im at it. Wouldn't hurt. Been doing more research on dirty socks lol and found my symptoms fit. There was an fc guy that started having issues once he started to pre mix. I deleted the omp and am premixing now so maybe this was the camel back that made the straw.
06-27-16, 11:18 AM
#21
installed the new sock AND pump. the old one didnt look too bad. when i pulled the pump out, the issue ended up being pretty obvious. the run for a min then lean out and die..... yea, the gas tank was bone dry. i made the mistake of trusting the gauge on my cluster when it said i had fuel. i'll take the blame for that. so i put 15 gallons in and luckily im right back where we started. i feel fortunate that this didnt end up a lot worse. i figure the super lean situation with me going into boost was because of fuel starvation which would make sense but thats not the case. im not seeing as lean of numbers as i did but it still manged to get into the 13s before i let off.
there are 4 absolutely brand new out the box bur7 and bur9 plugs. a brand new denso tt supra pump AND sock. 15 gallons of 93 octane with just under 1oz/gallon premix. all 4 injectors are confirmed working as they should. the fuel pump wiring has been converted back to stock for the sake of troubleshooting. its starting to look more and more like it just needs a re-tune. i dont know how much more tail chasing i want to do before i make the call though. what i dont want is there to be an actual problem somewhere and when i take it to the tuner, he will be forced to troubleshoot. i want to without a doubt shoot this down to an issue with the map.
also, just a heads up, i checked the oring inside the pipe on the hanger assembly and it was good.
also wanted to share this video from a little while back. its dark and its mainly audio. the intention was to "show" what i was talking about. you might have to turn your volume all the way up to hear anything. the cluster was unplugged because i broke my wls wire while deflooding so the buzzer was going off. before doing this i was at ~1/2 to 1/4 tank
there are 4 absolutely brand new out the box bur7 and bur9 plugs. a brand new denso tt supra pump AND sock. 15 gallons of 93 octane with just under 1oz/gallon premix. all 4 injectors are confirmed working as they should. the fuel pump wiring has been converted back to stock for the sake of troubleshooting. its starting to look more and more like it just needs a re-tune. i dont know how much more tail chasing i want to do before i make the call though. what i dont want is there to be an actual problem somewhere and when i take it to the tuner, he will be forced to troubleshoot. i want to without a doubt shoot this down to an issue with the map.
also, just a heads up, i checked the oring inside the pipe on the hanger assembly and it was good.
also wanted to share this video from a little while back. its dark and its mainly audio. the intention was to "show" what i was talking about. you might have to turn your volume all the way up to hear anything. the cluster was unplugged because i broke my wls wire while deflooding so the buzzer was going off. before doing this i was at ~1/2 to 1/4 tank
Last edited by cr-rex; 06-27-16 at 11:23 AM.
06-27-16, 12:45 PM
#22
to cut to the chase, i get really bad ignition break up in 1, 2, and 3 but 4 and 5 are ok. the break up comes in 123 only when trying to go into boost. in 4 it breaks up just a little bit but then takes off like nothing is wrong and in 5, no issues at all. in addition to this, my idle is really crappy outside of ~900-1000 rpm. if i rev it at all, it sounds like break up but it will rev. i have attached some logs for your viewing pleasure if you were so inclined to view them. i remember reading a thread where someone had a similar problem but of course, i cant find it now. i want to stress that the parts im using are the same ones that i pulled off the car with the exception of the pulleys. the trigger wheel was never removed.
Okay, so now you are back to just having this original problem. ^^
I could definitely hear it in the video; but, sorry I couldn't tell you what it is.
Usually an ignition issue is worse at full load then partial load- opposite of what you are having.
Except ignition timing retard.
Your engine is more sensitive to ignition retard at low load then high load- so I would check that out first. Its like your ignition timing is locked at base timing.
Okay, so now you are back to just having this original problem. ^^
I could definitely hear it in the video; but, sorry I couldn't tell you what it is.
Usually an ignition issue is worse at full load then partial load- opposite of what you are having.
Except ignition timing retard.
Your engine is more sensitive to ignition retard at low load then high load- so I would check that out first. Its like your ignition timing is locked at base timing.
06-28-16, 11:14 AM
#24
Okay, so now you are back to just having this original problem. ^^
I could definitely hear it in the video; but, sorry I couldn't tell you what it is.
Usually an ignition issue is worse at full load then partial load- opposite of what you are having.
Except ignition timing retard.
Your engine is more sensitive to ignition retard at low load then high load- so I would check that out first. Its like your ignition timing is locked at base timing.
im going to go with a healthy no on that one. i triple check my plug wires everytime i removed them for a deflood or a plug swap. they click when i put them on the spark plug and they are installed their respective coil packs firmly. these are the same wires that were in the car when i bought it. the coil pack harness is also installed in the correct order. i am using the stock ignition system with taylor 8mm plug wires.
06-29-16, 07:33 AM
#25
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
......Taylor huh? I'd absolutely swap those out in favor of OEM NGK wires and see what happens. Not kidding, I had issues manyyyyyy years ago, like in the year 2000 and they were the culprit. Those plug wires blow IMO, unless what you have is completely different than mine.