Idles at 1500 RPM w/ Greddy Elbow
#1
deal with it
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: California
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Idles at 1500 RPM w/ Greddy Elbow
One of the problems I'm having is with my idle... I searched on this subject and people seemed to have success just capping off that line that went to the stock elbow for the AWS start up or whatever
Well I capped off mine, but whenever I start my car the idle won't go lower than 1500, as if the start-up rpm thing is still conflicting?
Even blipping the throttle, starting in gear, etc. does nothing
I also have a Power FC, are you supposed to redo the idle learning process if you cap off that line?
Thanks for any help
Well I capped off mine, but whenever I start my car the idle won't go lower than 1500, as if the start-up rpm thing is still conflicting?
Even blipping the throttle, starting in gear, etc. does nothing
I also have a Power FC, are you supposed to redo the idle learning process if you cap off that line?
Thanks for any help
#3
deal with it
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: California
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmm this is a possibility but I remember looking the lines over
Could removing the AWS line from the elbow be related to the wax rod, and not making it heat up as quick? I only idled the car up to 55C or so before shutting it off, but I remember before if I blipped the throttle the idle would go down to normal...
Could removing the AWS line from the elbow be related to the wax rod, and not making it heat up as quick? I only idled the car up to 55C or so before shutting it off, but I remember before if I blipped the throttle the idle would go down to normal...
#5
Planning my come back
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 3,393
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The problem has to be related to the AWS. I would say just eliminate i.
#7
rotorhead
iTrader: (3)
only idled the car up to 55C or so before shutting it off
Also, the accelerated warmup system wire should have been cut or depinned from the engine harness at the ECU. This is in the instructions for PFC installation.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
warm it up to 80-85C. The fast idle cam isn't even supposed to drop the idle until 70 C, but sometimes it needs to be warmed up more than that.
Also, the accelerated warmup system wire should have been cut or depinned from the engine harness at the ECU. This is in the instructions for PFC installation.
Also, the accelerated warmup system wire should have been cut or depinned from the engine harness at the ECU. This is in the instructions for PFC installation.
1100 to 1600 and sometimes when i engage the clutch the rpms drop low enough the engine stalls. Any ideas?
#12
Unhealthy Obsession
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: NNJ
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
which wires should be pulled from the stock harness? I got a used pfc and i was told it was straight plug and play. So none of my wires are pulled from the stock harness. I also have idle problems. Sometimes the car idles at 2k, sometimes it bounces fro
1100 to 1600 and sometimes when i engage the clutch the rpms drop low enough the engine stalls. Any ideas?
1100 to 1600 and sometimes when i engage the clutch the rpms drop low enough the engine stalls. Any ideas?
#13
T3DoW
iTrader: (10)
it's a o-ring like mentioned before. Not having it will not affect idle...it can however leak boost which will cause the turbos to work a little harder. Also, if your turbos are blowing a more than a little oil it will start to seep out and drip all over that side of the block.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post