I'm having some boost issues again. And I'm tired of the rats nest. Roughly how much $$ am i looking at to do it myself (Because i'm broke from buying a house.), and how much does it usually cost to pay someone to do it? I realy want to do it right, if i do it at all. Like Jim lab posted pictures awhile ago. If anyone has them, feel free to post them again.

On a side note, what exactly does that black pressure tank do right by the y-pipe? I was wondering if that had anything to do with a 10-5-slowly to 10 boost pattern....

Thanks, CJ

 

It really won't cost much, but it also depends on what you have. You'll need a 3/4" pipe tap and a plug for the flapper door on the exhaust manifold, which is about $20. You'll need a few vacuum line caps, which is pocket change. You'll probably want to port the wastegate, which you can do yourself if you have die grinder/compressor and mechanical skills. (If you have compressor but no die grinder they're about $20 from Wal-Mart and they're pretty good.) And you'll need to spot weld the flapper door to the second turbo, which you can do yourself if you have a welder ... or somewhere would probably do for near nothing since it's just a spot.

Other than that, you might want use a hacksaw and bench grinder to just have the essentials left from the solenoid rack, but that's not essential since it screws apart pretty well. You might want to cut the top mounting bracket parts off of the coil box, but it's not crucial, either. Then there's looping the old solenoid harnesses with 330 ohm resistors, which will cost only a couple $$$ from Radio Shack ... solder if you don't have it, and an iron ... $10 total. And since you're removing everything emissions related, you'll need some blockoff plates. You can make them, no more than $20 total if you have the tools and skills ... or buy them from Carson (spyfish007) -- I'm not sure how much. Since the airpump system is closed to itself, you can actually just cut plates out of sheet aluminum because there is no pressure in that system. Add a few bucks for some new vacuum lines ... I'd say about $100 should cover it if you do it yourself. You could even replace hardware with that ... like you might want to go to Carquest or somewhere and get new downpipe studs just to be safe.

I didn't include the cost of new gaskets because all of the gaskets in the system are metal, so they are reusable. If you're paranoid about them, then it'll cost more. Just take a look at the gaskets between the turbo and manifold and the turbo and downpipe and make sure they're OK. If you want your turbos doctored, then that'll cost more to ship them off. I did my turbo work myself because I'm special ... or I just felt like it, really. We have all of the stuff, that's why.

 

There's some pics on my site...including the one's jimlab posted (he did most of my conversion...those were my turbos :)

http://www.micromanx.com/goble/rx7/projects.html

 

pressure tank could , yes. it If it is leaking it may not have enough rpessure in it to actuate the various items quicklye nough, hence the slow transition. More likely however, inspect you turbo pre-control actuautor selenoid, etc. that is the one that prespools your second turbo. Your boost problem isa cmmon one, and an easy one to fix, as you are getting 10psi on secondary, just not fast enough.