hatemy7

Well I am going to start building my motor and I am going to be doing a lot of freeway runs and some DIG runs ( I am sure) but I really want a very fast spool from my turbo or turbos, at the same time I would like to make between 450-500hp.
Wich would be best? single or twin turbos
should I go with a large street port or Full bridge
what is the best computer to use in your great opinions
what is the best spooling turbos
and size of injectors?

Once again, I dont mean to ask stupid questions what so ever, I just would like everyones opinion on what kind of set up I should go with.

Most runs that I will be doing is from 40-120mph.

thank you once again for all your opinions.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Single

Streetport

Whoever is going to tune your car, ask them what they prefer.

Check the Single Turbo section here on the forum.

Use a fuel calculator: http://www.rx7.com/calculators.html

hatemy7

Hey thank you for your .02 sir, I appreciate it.

hatemy7

anymore suggestions?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Give it time. It's Friday, and a lot of people are still at work.

hatemy7

^ LOL yeah your right lol.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Mahjik pretty much hit the nail on the head with his answers, though I just figured I'd throw this out there.. You realize it is NOT going to be cheap, right?? I mean, you can (done correctly) expect to spend at least 10-15k on the mods alone for your goal of 450-500whp, if you're going from stock. Not to mention the cost of your streetport...

I'd suggest checking out the car at 350-400 first, it will be MUCH easier to maintain and control at that point.. from there see about cranking up the boost a bit more based on your intake temps.

hatemy7

Well I am going to build my motor including with the Porting

Well I really dont see How I can spend 10-15k on mods? but Its a car dedicated to my father so money isnt going to much of a problem. ( I am not rich what so ever just know how to manage my money lol)

but hey Thank you Fendamonky, I appreciate you comments.

FCNAred

iTrader: (2)

i think what he means is that its not just the engine stuff, 10-15k would cover the cost of:
engine

fuel system done properly will cost you quite a bit

nice clutch, now here is where a lot of people differ, some will run an ACT with stock flywheel or light flywheel, but if you've ever driven one of the multiplate clutches you understand why they cost more. for 500hp i'd go with an exedy carbon twin

turbo kit, these will vary wildly from your ebay 600 dollar kits to 5k dollar hks T51r's. you'll prob be in the middle someplace.

differential, a nice diff transforms the car in my opinion
proper suspension, if you're doing top speed runs, i'm not going to judge, but you're going to want to make sure that your suspension is in proper working order and is setup WELL. you don't have to break the bank with full racing coilovers, but don't cheap out either. on top of that depending on the condition of the car you choose as your base, you could be looking at another 1000-1500 or in bushings to refresh all of those including the cost of pillowballs, new tie rods, ball joints etc etc +install

brakes, prob don't really need a BBK for a street car, but if you're braking down from 160+ on the street, you're going to want to make sure this is in working order

wheels and tires, that can get pricey too, you aren't going to want to be going that fast with crappy tires and you'll won't be maximizing your car's power if you've got heavy wheels on it.

a good ecu with coils will cost around 2000 bucks IF you install it and wire it yourself, dyno time for a proper tune is also not cheap

dont forget proper cooling for extended high rpm use, nice radiator and upgraded oilcoolers

probably will want to at least rebuild the stock trans as well

this is a very very brief overview, and thats assuming the car you start with is in reasonable good condition. if you're going to bother doing it, do it right. these cars will nickle and dime you to death.

twomucboost4u

iTrader: (9)

10k is easy to spend on trying to make 450+....

Motor rebiuld kit pluss all gaskets...$1400 just for parts
Turbo kit... your probably going to go gt35r...$2800-3500 depending on who you get it from.
Intercooler Upgrade... $800-$1200 depending on what you get.
Radiator...$500
Clutch...$550
Fuel...$900
Aux. Injection...$400
Ignition...$350
Exhaust...$800
ECU...$800-$1200 depending on what you get

Thats just a quick list for you... Mahjic answered most of your other questions..
You cant hit 450 with twins, So you have to go single. Bridgeport would be overkill large streetport will do you fine. A lost of people run a Apex-i PFC, and for fuel your probably goign to be running 850's for primary and 1600 for secondary. Youll need to upgrade the fuel pump as well. As far as fastest spooling turbo your probalby going to go with a gt35R See full boost by around 3500-3600 or a gt40r see full boost by around 4000-4100.

Chris

hatemy7

WOW, yeah you guys are right, I forgot all about clutch kit and flywheels. what can I do to the diff? arent FD diffs pretty good already?

I am also looking at a GT35r also, I think they are awesome lil turbos.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

If you are going to be launching from a stop, then you'll want to look at a Kaaz unit. You can go with a TII diff as well. If you plan on launching and using a drag tires, better go ahead and look at chromoly axles.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Word,

Breaking 400-450 will be MUCH easier with a single than with twins. Just this past winter I upgraded to BNR's and did all the little extra bits needed to support it. That ended up costing me $8k in parts and (if I got measured on a US dyno) I'm only at 380whp. But that was just stuff directly related to the HP gain. You will really want to look into all the other, random, little extra's which will allow you to put that power to the ground. The turbo kit will probably cost you $3k-$5k, a good clutch will be atleast $1k, fuel system will be another $1k, Intercooler will be from $1k-$2k, than there is the ECU, you will also want to properly support everything to be sure nothing breaks (all the random little support bits, from braces to ignition amps, WBO2, etc., will run you atleast 1k)..

When you *really* get into the weeds on planning everything out you will see that it really starts to add up. This winter alone I spent $8k on parts for my car, that was AFTER I had already seen to all the reliability mods and standard bolt-ons.. I've still got to get a larger intercooler (V-Mount FTMFT!) and a vented hood.. The complete v-mount setup will cost me $3k and the hood will be about $600, Water Injection is going to be installed in about a week, that cost me $500 (got a deal from a buddy).

In order to get the car into the numbers you're looking for, while maintaining reliability, is not going to be cheap...

Don't get me wrong, def go for it!! I just wanted to give you a little heads up irt what you may expect to be spending before any kind of shop costs.

hatemy7

that sounds good , I def know how much I am going to spend now, I just bought a shell for 5500 and i Have my 13b re motor ready with a Large street port with every else that is able to be ported with. I already have an Microtech LT10, wither way I still have to blow some money and I already have some nice WHEELS lol some WELDS

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

i think the 2 best ecus to use are either newer AEM or PFC. BUT ifyour rotary tuner is capable of microtech then by all means.... just know up front that a majority of the rotary tuners use the PFC.

Also, I'm very happy with my GT3574 from ASpec you should definately give them a call for your single turbo needs. They also have their own forum subsection.

My advice is to start small with your goals. Shoot for a running engine with fuel upgrades, ecu, exhaust, dp, reliability mods (radiator, etc..) If you're not careful the FD will soon become the infamous Financial Disaster.

hatemy7

Oh i def will start off slow, I graduated school past december so the money situation is looking a LOT better lol. but just like anything else my priorities comes first.

Thank you once again with your heads up

ls1oo7

have u ever tought about a lsx swap ? can be had for the same amount and with a lil nitrous u could have sumthing extremly fast torquey and ... yeah .. whats ythat last one .. RELIABLE !!!

**** blows ups with high powered rotary .. ar at least my last 3 did ..

think about a cobra diff also .. pricey but worth it uif ur serious

either way both will be expensive . but 1 will ultimatly be faster and caple of crazy torque.. not talking about the rotary either ..

hatemy7

^ thanks for your input but I am sticking with rotary

dhays

iTrader: (1)

To my rather uniformed mind, this really is the point. As others have been saying, it's not just about the power output of your engine but all the supporting systems as well. The differential is just one example. I you achieve that power level, you have to be able to put that power to the road and a lot of things (rather old things in an FD) are between the flywheel and the road.

The differential is pretty good in the FD. But consider it was a pretty good differential for a street sports car with half of the horsepower that you are talking about building. The diff wasn't designed for that power level. The same can be said for the clutch, transmission, cooling system, fuel system, etc....

Seems like this is what makes a project like you describe so expensive. You have just about rebuild the entire car to support the power you want make. That takes time and money.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

get a haltech

arghx

iTrader: (3)

the amount of money it takes to go from say low 300's (stock twins working properly, cooling mods and clutch, maybe a chipped ECU or PFC with 1300 secondary's) in an rx-7 to low-mid 400's is just a **** ton.

overehttop

+1 to this thread, right on hatemy7 looking to do the same thing myself. Got a dead FD needing a rebuild do to a cracked jacket.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

its actually near impossible with the twins. the bnr's can get you close and somtimes a little over 400 with full supporting mods/vented hood/large porting/aux injection

ls1oo7

no prob ... ill recomend it again when the rotary dies again lol

.. seriously .. ull get tired of rebuilding them eventually ull come to the darkside lol...

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

^ I really don't want to believe that 400whp is the expected limit to twins. We all know that Rich made 421whp with BNR's and a streetport. But he was also only pushing 17.5 psi at the time, BNRs are capable of much higher. If my car were run on an American Dyno I'd be putting out numbers between 373 and 383 at the wheels right now. I'm only running 16psi on a stock motor (granted, my compression is awesome @ 8.6-9.0 on all faces). I truly believe that twins are capable of breaking 400 reliably (zip-ties on vac hoses ftw!), it's just a matter of correct supporting mods, tuning and pushing the BNR's to their peak.

Not many people do it because it is NOT CHEAP to do correctly, and 350 to the wheels is still a very respectable number for the majority of your average street cars. But then again, I'm also not terribly convinced that running non-seq will raise top power throughout the powerband over a working sequential system...

Come this fall I will do my damndest to see what, exactly the BNR's are capable of.. A/I first, than a vented hood, lastly a solid V-mount with a re-tune.. I feel that it is entirely possible to take upgraded twins into the realm of small/medium single's.. It's just bloody expensive!!