i was cleaning up some pollen dust in the engine today (huge mess), and i noticed that my Y pipe is aluminum already. am i missing something or did someone install the efini pipe on my car? i was under the impression that ALL the US cars had plastic?

i have no way to contact the 1st owner, and the 2nd owner did no mods at all to the car. if the 1st owner DID in fact replace the Y pipe, do you think it may have failed in the first place? if not that seems kinda wierd to be the first/only mod to the car.

 

the actual "y" section of the pipe will be aluminum yes, but the pipe following that, i beleive called the "crossover" pipe, will be plastic stock.... and aluminum if it was a efini pipe

 

All y pipes are aluminum...if it goes together to the crossover pipe with a coupler, it's a 93-95; if it bolts together, it's the efini style.

 

I recommend getting that factory 100% stock pre-cat out of there, pronto. When mine came out it had only 29k miles on it and the platinum core was falling apart. It would suck to pop a motor because the precat fused up and clogged your exhaust. seriously.

 

alright, thanks for the clarifacation. thats kinda tricky calling the "efini y-pipe" aluminium when really its the crossover pipe thats the difference in aluminum rather than plastic.

 

downpipe, aluminium ast, new clutch, new plugs, new filters, and some other goodies are sitting in the garage awaiting installation

 

The 'y' portion of the pipe is different also, it is less restrictive to allow more flow. Ari at www.rx7.com has told me of 5-10 rwhp gains simply from the addition of the pipe. I am sure some/all of that is due to an increase in boost pressure.

Also, glad to see your FD isn't remaining 100% stock

 

^im glad its not gonna be stock anymore, but scared im gonna catch the mod bug. i bought the car to drive, not to pray it starts everytime i put the key in.

although i was itching to tear out that retarded snorkle of an intake. its like breathing through a straw.

 

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Yeah, put in some kind of a cold air box. I have an M2. Replace the radiator with an upgraded aluminum one if it hasn't been done already.

If you wanted to sink some more money in I'd get a bigger Intercooler too. The stock one is too small. That involves relocating the battery to a rear compartment or trunk. It's an expensive upgrade so I have left the stock one in mine for now. These are reliability mods that will extend the life of your motor with the added benefit of slightly more power. Also you might add 4 oz. of TCW3 2 stroke oil to each tank of Gas. This is supposed to make the motor last longer as well. At least this is what I have been told by those *in the know*. Anyone else agree? Change the coolant religiously and use 20-50w dino oil in the crankcase and do changes every 2000 miles.

 

IIRC, someone here did a comparison and found about 1 psi increase.

drivelikejehu, Mine is still mostly stock too, and I understand about the "mod bug". Just think of it as a reliability mod if you need a rationalization.

 

"retarded snorkle of an intake"?

Not sure what that means. The stock airbox works GREAT if you open up another hole in it and feed it some good, direct air so you don't have to worry about intercooler reversion since the stock ducting feeds both the airbox and the I/C.

Be aware that a LOT of the aftermarket intakes do nothing but suck THE hottest air into them.

Also, I don't agree that an aftermarket ALUMINUM radiator is necessary, not for light to moderate mods, Silverstone. You can purchase an all-metal stock replacement (so you don't have to worry about those plastic end-tanks) that is copper and brass construction for about $160, and it is superior in every way to the stock unit.

 

"since the stock ducting feeds both the airbox and the I/C."

yeah thats what i was referring to, the flat piece of plastic that kinda acts like a "straw" to get air from the front. the air box design just seems like a waste of a whole lot of engine space to me, but looking at it from mazdas perspective, its the best design they could have in order to keep the production of different parts for different models to a minimum (if it werent for the r1's dual oil cooler im sure they would have run SOME ducting to the passenger air duct) AND pass all the rules and regulations they have to follow.

so yeah i agree it can work great... but im still tired of looking at it

 

The "mod bug" has bitten.

 

You can still go with a stock mount IC without having to mess with the battery. I have the PFS IC and it's about 200% larger volume than the stock IC and keeps my temps nice and cool even though i'm pushing over 300 to the wheels and regularly track the car.

 

Hmmmmmmmmm???? I wonder if something could be done to improve the performance of the stock airbox????

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=121491

 

PFS, Greddy, Blitz, SR IC's all fit in stock position. Battery is tight expecially with a new radiator fit in too, but can put in a Honda sized battery to get more space.

 

Yeah, you don't need to get anything but aluminun offers very good heat dissipation as compared with many metals and they are not that expensive as compared with say an intercooler. But I was not up on the fact that there are stock mount intercoolers with higher capacity. I thought you had to relocate the battery, so that is good to know. I would probably get one if my FD was not for sale at the moment. I'll leave it to the next owner.