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Just buy a used booster from Tom! I think rx7parts might have a few as well. Or post a WTB on the facebook page. An MC is even less an obstacle. You can get a 929 plug and play from chips motorsports, or get a stock 929 rebuild + ABS delete kit from FDAuto or pick up an OEM on ebay and rebuild it. (Noting of course that I myself am 2 months into replacing all my brake components and still chasing gremlins, so I understand the impulse to sell. If my car looked as good as yours I would be a lot more inspired...)
As for selling, I think the suspension/alignment issues will hurt your buyer pool as will the mileage. Compression numbers are great though and the OEM appearance is desirable. I think you need to fix the booster and MC regardless of whether you decide to sell or keep, otherwise you're killing your price. So assuming you fix that I would say you could get $27k, the price being low only because of the suspension issues. I think you could get $35k if you could get the suspension issues addressed by a shop to the point that you wouldn't have to qualify the situation. I think the mileage is going to cap you at that point. It's a soft market right now. There's a steady stream of FDs for sale on the Facebook groups, BAT, and carsandbids. Prices tend to pick up when the weather gets nice though. |
Originally Posted by sunkat
(Post 12593791)
Just buy a used booster from Tom! I think rx7parts might have a few as well. Or post a WTB on the facebook page. An MC is even less an obstacle. You can get a 929 plug and play from chips motorsports, or get a stock 929 rebuild + ABS delete kit from FDAuto or pick up an OEM on ebay and rebuild it. (Noting of course that I myself am 2 months into replacing all my brake components and still chasing gremlins, so I understand the impulse to sell. If my car looked as good as yours I would be a lot more inspired...)
As for selling, I think the suspension/alignment issues will hurt your buyer pool as will the mileage. Compression numbers are great though and the OEM appearance is desirable. I think you need to fix the booster and MC regardless of whether you decide to sell or keep, otherwise you're killing your price. So assuming you fix that I would say you could get $27k, the price being low only because of the suspension issues. I think you could get $35k if you could get the suspension issues addressed by a shop to the point that you wouldn't have to qualify the situation. I think the mileage is going to cap you at that point. It's a soft market right now. There's a steady stream of FDs for sale on the Facebook groups, BAT, and carsandbids. Prices tend to pick up when the weather gets nice though. I DID buy a brake MC and booster from a member (Jim) last week and I am installing them today/this week. And I think I am going back deeper down that rabbit trail. Thanks. I think this thread might now become a cleanup/rebuild thread rather than "should I sell?" |
So, I thought it would be easier to get the master booster out if I remove the driver seat. This has given me an opportunity to get a better look at it's leather. (Pictures attached.)
Looking at it, As I said here or someplace else, the seat is on OK, but not good condition. And the driver seat is far worse than the passenger - which looks practically new by comparison. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...44eea6556d.jpg Complete Driver https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b055ce8e49.jpg Seatback Bolster https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f1112a7a9.jpg Seat Bottom Bolster The bolsters are pretty cut up from the years of climbing over them getting into and out of the car. For now, maybe I will just find a temporary cover. Edit: I was going to see if a local upholsterer could do an OEM look replacement, then I found this site... https://www.lseat.com/products/1992-...ers-front.html Economically speaking, this would be better than going through the expense of a temporary cheap cover and then replacing it later. The question is... is their product any good? Does anyone here have any opinions of their workmanship/products? |
They're not cut. The top surface of the leather is just cracked from use. IMO, that is the usual "vintage" leather look, which is not a bad thing. As long as it's not torn, I'd just clean/lubricate it with saddle soap. That's what I do with mine ~once/year.
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Originally Posted by DaveW
(Post 12594467)
They're not cut. The top surface of the leather is just cracked from use. IMO, that is the usual "vintage" leather look, which is not a bad thing. As long as it's not torn, I'd just clean/lubricate it with saddle soap. That's what I do with mine ~once/year.
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Lseats used my covers as their pattern. I have had them on my car for a couple of years. I have driven less than 1,000 miles since installed; so I can't vouch for durability.
https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext...alled-1155341/ |
Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
(Post 12594493)
Vintage wouldn't be too bad - if I didn't have all those cracks with white lines showing. Maybe I need to dye the leather? Saddle soap... I stopped using a long time ago because I felt it did more harm than good to leather. What I wish the seats actually had is a Velcro attachment point for a small strip of material that could sit atop the actual leather and be removed and replaced as necessary as it wears.
Why do you think saddle soap does more harm than good? I've not had any reason to think that and I've been using it since I got my FD and on my wife's '07 Audi. Answered my own question below. Cheap saddle soap can, indeed, not be good. From the web: ... as a chemist I did some quick reading on Google. Saddle soap can be highly alkaline (pH >10) and thus cause leather to degrade and crack. Better saddle soap products may contain mink oil, beeswax and lanolin. Fiebing's is apparently rich in lanolin so you may be using a very good product. I think your followup with a leather conditioner is a good step. This may alleviate any issues from the saddle soap. But in any case, do not change to a cheap saddle soap or you find the consequences (darkening and cracking) not to your liking |
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